Wednesday 27 January 2016

Paris Couture Week Highlights

Elie Saab
Where do I begin with this show? Everything about it was just so perfect, magical and amazing. Paying homage to India, this show featured heavily embellished draped scarves across the body and dresses, silk veils and plenty of asymmetrical layering. There was also a modern Victoriana twist, with classic period costumes given a 21st century make over, just take a look at what Mica Arganaraz was wearing.  All the models looked like princesses with silver a headpiece on their head, wearing such beautiful creations each.

As for the final bridal dress, it was Indian inspired and divine. Based on a traditional sari, silk was tucked into a slim belt and then fell down covering the floor. The train was long and full of layered silks to fill it out more everywhere you looked it sparkled in the catwalk lights. Who knows how much this dress would cost, but I can assure you for one lucky woman it will be worth it.
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld, who I still can't believe is 82, is always a big talking point of any Paris couture week. This season he went all eco friendly with his wooden set, promising to recycle the whole thing and invited a very green Gwyneth Paltrow to his show. Before the show even started, Cara Delevingne caused a stir when she brought her dog Leo along with her, who sat very well behaved next to her and a rather bemused Carine Roitfeld. And then once the show started, all anyone could talk about afterwards was the Kendall/Gigi/Bella trio who appeared in the show. Now I'm all for them modelling for Chanel, but really there are more important things to talk about such as the clothes, not a bunch of reality tv stars.

It was a classic Chanel couture collection. The tweed suit played a huge part in varying lengths and colours as did the famous bouclè suit, made iconic by Coco Chanel. Gold was used to maximum effect with flecking on skirts and jackets and accessories to, while large shoulders and slim fitting 1920s silhouettes gave the whole thing an elegant, refined finish. Shoes with wooden soles were the only Eco link to the set, as the rest of the collection was a mix of evening wear and very luxurious day wear. I could sense a certain Abu Dhabi feel to the clothes, as the richness and simple colours used were very 'Sheikh.' Capes were casually thrown over bare shoulders, bum bags baring the Chanel logo were placed centre stage and large square pockets were adorned onto long cardigans and jackets. My favourite piece had to be the slim fitting white dress with a high peplum and gold fastenings. You can't help but appreciate the beauty that goes into a Chanel collection. Magnificent.


Armani Privè
Giorgio Armani always sticks to the same colour scheme... and it works. Soft lilacs, deep velvets, midnight blues and silver metallics were used throughout this elegant collection much like many of his others, which was an absolute delight to watch. Models strolled down the runway, complete with softly waved hair a la Veronica Lake, and purple ankle boots. It was all very dreamy, and many of the dresses were clear contenders to make an appearance at this years Academy Awards such was the beauty and layers of sumptuous fabric. Silk Trousers came with pleats along the outside of the leg, ruffles were used to full effect adorned on dresses while transparent materials were casually strewn across beaded tops.
Ralph & Russo
Wow! That was the only word I could utter after seeing the finale of the Ralph and Russo show. Isabelli Fontana majestically swept down the catwalk wearing one of the most embellished and breath taking wedding dresses I've ever seen, with floor length sleeves and a huge train. It was simply stunning and well worth the applause that erupted at the end of the show.
The rest of the collection was very R&R, with a strong emphasis on form fitting shapes and eccentrically feminine pieces. I loved the monochrome floral cocktail dresses as well as the pretty purple pieces, similar to the soft colours used by Armani in his couture show. This design duo know how to do couture like no other, and this confident, spell binding collection was incredibly beautiful. Probably my favourite show so far of Paris Fashion Week - I want every piece.
Giambattista Valli
Usually this designer is one of my favourites of couture week. But even though there was no mistaking the beauty of these clothes, they just didn't have the same pizzazz and wow effect that Giambattista Valli usually has on me. Nevertheless, the embellished mini dresses were intricate and clearly made with such close attention to detail. Ruffles appeared on pinafore dressed, with embroidered flowers while the more dramatic looks in black were very grown up. As always at the end of a Valli show, all the huge ball gowns descended onto the runway in bright popping colours. It made an impact but it wasn't amazing, and I expect amazing when watching a designer with so much history and depth to its fashion house. It was still a wonderful collection, which will make Valli clients very happy.

Atelier Versace
Kicking off proceedings on Sunday evening was a touch of Italian style with atelier Versace. Donatella certainly called in some big names to walk in her show, including Gigi Hadid, Irina Shayk, Natasha Poly, Lara Stone and Rosie Huntington Whiteley. As for the clothes, it was all very Versace. Cut out slip dresses which fell to the ground, intricate ropes which held together barely there mini dresses and splashes of bold neon brights on white pieces. Glamour and sophistication is what Donatella does best, and this collection certainly wasn't lacking any of that. I loved the electric blue dress worn by RHW which had an extremely high split, as well as the sultry hair and make up, consisting of dark eyes and a glowing complexion. Another fantastic Versace show with enough sex appeal to last a lifetime.
Christian Dior
The big talking point had to be Dior this couture week. Who is going to take over now    Raf is gone? What would the clothes be like? What is the future of Dior? Well, we still don't know who the new creative director will be, even though Sarah Burton has been heavily tipped to take the helm, but this Dior show still had a very strong sense of Raf Simmons still present. Dropped shoulders gave way to lovely folds of fabric, luxurious layering of tops over skirts, beautiful black lace dresses with plunging v necks and lots of embellishment made this a stunning Dior collection to remember. White was a key colour throughout even though black was used for a bit of drama. I thought the whole show was beautiful and very much what we have come to expect from Dior during the Raf years. The 2 young Dior designers who put this show together should be very proud of themselves.

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