Monday 28 November 2016

Steven Meisel: Fashion's most Controversial Photographer


Steven Meisel, one of the most most respected photographers in the fashion industry, has long inspired me with his beautiful photographs, often conveying a strong message. His work for Vogue Italia is particularly impressive. Remember the controversial 'Make over Madness' shoot, which featured Linda Evangalista undergo painful cosmetic procedures all for the sake of beauty? Or how about the 'State of Emergency' editorial from 2006? Taking inspiration from the strict border force laws and immigration across Europe, the shoot featured models being slammed against cars by police for security checks and having to remove their clothes at the airport. Moreover, it showed normal civilians as victims of violent security laws, causing quite a stir in the media. Controversial yes, but these realistic shoots are what makes Steven Mesiel so perfect as a social commentator through the medium of fashion photography.

Born on June 5th, 1954, Meisel loved photography from a young age, famously waiting outside Melvin Sokolsky's studio for hours to catch a glimpse of Twiggy, at 12 years old. After studying at the prestigious Parsons New School of Design, he went on to become an illustrator for a number of publications, with photography not even crossing his mind as a potential career move. It wasn't until he was asked to take some test photos for Elite Model Agency that he discovered his true passion and something he was rather good at - taking photos of people. Since then he is famed for taking some of the most iconic photos of the supermodels in the 1990's as well as his narrative driven shoots for US Vogue and Vogue Italia, where most of his photographs are featured. He also shot ad campaigns for numerous fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Dolce and Gabbana, Fendi and Versace - his sexy, dark glamorous photographs a favourite among the Italian brands.

Famously a very private man, Meisel has grown to be one of the most admired and in demand photographers in the fashion industry. Controversy seems to follow his work, from the 1990s Calvin Klein ad campaign which was criticised as a form of child pornography, to his 'Water and Oil' editorial which highlighted the catastrophic oil leak which killed millions of birds and sea life. For over 20 years his photographs have captivated audiences and impacted the industry immensely. I have picked out some of my favourite photographs of his below and hope you enjoy them as much as I have.

Monday 21 November 2016

AMA's 2016: Best Dressed and Winners List

The American Music Awards took place last night, hosted by Gigi Hadid and attended by a number of music's biggest stars. The evening saw Justin Bieber crowned the big winner, picking up 4 awards, while Ariana Grande (who performed 'Side to Side' with Nicki Minaj) won Artist of the Year. Drake, Beyonce and Carrie Underwood all scooped awards too, but all attention was on Miss Hadid who hosted the show in 6 outfit changes. Twitter went into meltdown, for all the wrong reasons, when Gigi gave her Melania Trump impersoination, with accent, plumped up lips and everything. She received a lot of criticism, with many calling her a racist, for her pretty bad impression of the new First Lady. Anyway, in terms of fashion Gigi looked amazing on the red carpet in a white Roberto Cavalli gown, before donning frocks by designers Versace and Julian Macdonald for her hosting duties.

Chrissy Teigan showed off more than she wished when her barely there black dress revealed she wasn't wearing any underwear while Lady Gaga looked super stylish in a flared white trouser suit, complete with huge hat, always going to the extreme. Selena Gomez, fresh out of rehab, showed up in a red ball gown while Heidi Klum opted for a gold jumpsuit. Karlie Kloss wore Versace, making her legs look even longer than they already are. But it was pregnant Ciara, who won hands down for best dressed star of the evening. She dressed her growing bump in a flared black gown which was stylish and elegant, compared to other celebrities who just looked trashy and distasteful - Ariana Grande *cough cough.* Other fashion failures of the night included Indina Menzal, Tinashe and Zoe Saldana who looked like she was wearing 3 different dresses in one. See all the best and worst dressed stars below as well as the full winners list...
Not all the celebrities on the red carpet dressed to impress...

Heidi Klum, Ciara and Milla Jovovich
Gigi Hadid's impress array of outfits throughout the evening...

American Music Awards 2016 Winners List 

Artist of the year – Ariana Grande
New artist of the year – Zayn Malik
Collaboration of the year – Fifth Harmony featuring Ty Dolla Sign – ‘Work From Home’
Tour of the year – Beyonce
Video of the year – Justin Bieber – ‘Sorry’
Favourite male artist (pop/rock) – Justin Bieber
Favourite female artist (pop/rock) – Selena Gomez
Favourite duo or group (pop/rock) – Twenty One Pilots
Favourite album (pop/rock) – Justin Bieber – ‘Purpose’
Favourite song (pop/rock) – Justin Bieber – ‘Love Yourself’
Favourite male artist (country) – Blake Shelton
Favourite female artist (country) – Carrie Underwood
Favourite duo or group (country) – Florida Georgia Line
Favourite album (country) – Carrie Underwood – ‘Storyteller’
Favourite song (country) – Tim McGraw – ‘Humble And Kind’
Favourite artist (rap/hip-hop) – Drake
Favourite album (rap/hip-hop) – Drake – ‘Views’
Favourite Song (rap/hip-hop) – Drake – ‘Hotline Bling’
Favourite male artist (soul/R&B) – Chris Brown
Favourite female artist (soul/R&B) – Rihanna
Favourite album (soul/R&B) – Rihanna – ‘Anti’
Favourite song (soul/R&B) – Rihanna featuring Drake – ‘Work’
Favourite artist (alternative rock) – Twenty One Pilots
Favourite artist (adult contemporary) – Adele
Favourite artist (Latin) – Enrique Iglesias
Favourite artist (contemporary inspirational) – Hillsong United
Favourite artist (electronic dance music) – The Chainsmokers
Top soundtrack – Purple Rain

Monday 14 November 2016

Beware - You are being judged!

Writing my dissertation at the moment, it's so interesting to explore the way in which clothes shape you as a person. You may not think it, but what you decide to wear today - say a black polo neck, navy jeans and a pair of Stan Smiths, reflects the persona or image you're trying to convey ie. you're a relaxed, too cool for school kid who prefers to opt for comfort rather than glamour when it comes to fashion.What you wear is judged by society the moment you step out that door. You are at once cast into a group - punk, sporty, pretty, chic, chav... the list goes on, as well as whether you're rich or poor (vitally important in society). All of this just by getting dressed in the morning.

Now, those of us who deny we take time to think about what we're going to throw onto our backs in the morning are lying. We all make a conscientious decision every morning to wear particular pieces, depending on our moods, the outside temperature and perhaps our day jobs or tasks required of us that day. Yet, we have a signature style which we want to communicate to the outside world. A great example is when someone like me, who can't afford to shop in luxury boutiques, decides to turn up at the Louis Vuitton store on Old Bond Street in a pair of old converses, skinny ripped jeans, a parka from Bershka and a handbag from H&M. Before I have even stepped through the store entrance I am being judged. The security guard looks me up and down, no doubt thinking 'keep an eye on this one.' The snooty sales assistants who greet me inside the store, slyly smile at one another thinking 'what is someone like her doing in our store?' And then the store manager looks over, agreeing that I don't even deserve the time for sales assistant to talk to me as I obviously can't afford anything inside the store and will be out within the next minute. Harsh but true.

The stereotypical chav vs Kate Middleton
Now, same situation, different clothes. I turn up to Louis Vuitton on Old Bond Street wearing a tailored black coat, black leather heeled boots and my Nan's old fox fur stole draped around my neck. I also have my baby blue Zara purse tucked under my arm and a large pair of sunglasses perched on my nose. The security guard at the door smiles at me and nods in approval. The sales assistants rush over to greet me and ask if I'm looking for anything in particular today, while the store manager smiles to himself at the prospect of a big sale to boost the days target. A completely different experience just by the clothes I'm wearing. It truly is terrible that we judge, and I'm not saying that all wealthy people walk around with their fur coats, Hermes bags and huge heels all day - well the new money folk tend to. But, if you look the part, you are treated better.

We are all guilty. I have worked in a number of luxury fashion stores, and I like to think I can tell if someone is a potential customer or not, just by what they're wearing. It is the way I, and you too, have been conditioned since birth. Judging someone is second nature. Recently in America, putting fashion aside, black men have been constantly judged, targeted and killed by the police just by the colour of their skin. Because of course, according to the police,  if you're black you are dangerous, which is absolutely ridiculous. Here in London, when I get on the tube followed by a guy wearing a hoodie, at once other passengers look at him wearily and clutch their bags a little tighter. Chances are this man who decided to wear a hoodie that day, is among the least dangerous people on the train.
The evolution of Mrs Beckham...

Fashion is constantly judging. Kim Kardashian steps out wearing a see through black dress and Yeezy boots - Mail Online goes into melt down with the amount of negative comments. "She's nothing more than a cheap slut," "What an awful mother," "She looks like a hooker," "Her bum is so fake"... Judging all the time. Yes, Mrs Kardashian West wanted attention, why else would she decide to step out in something as revealing as that? But it's incredible that we at once put her in the category of reality TV star slut. We do the same with numerous celebrities, from Miley Cyrus, Angelina Jolie and Nicki Minaj to the Duchess of Cambridge, Rihanna and Victoria Beckham. Victoria Beckham is one of the best examples out there. She went from tasteless, cheap footballers wife to respected fashion designer with a slot at NYFW, through a major shift in her personal image. Who doesn't love looking through those before and after photos?

So, if anything I'm simply trying to say don't judge a book by its cover. We have done it for centuries, and no doubt we will do for centuries more, but if we can help it, we should stop! We all love to bitch (trust me, that's one of my favourite pastimes) but it's unnecessary, mean and very wrong to do when we don't know that person at all. Next time you step outside your door, think about what image you're trying to portray to the rest of society. Because believe me, even the post man will be judging.

Angelina Jolie, Nicki Minaj and Kim Kardashian all have very different public images.

Tuesday 8 November 2016

A Very British Affair for Gucci Cruise 2017

In June, Gucci staged their Cruise 2017 collection at the historic Westminster Abbey in London. Held in the cloisters of the world famous abbey, Alessandro Michele presented 94 looks, mixing his love of punk, history and gender fluidity with patriotic British flags, animal prints and lots of colour. For the Cruise ad campaign, the quintessentially British-ness theme continued, with the photos shot at the majestic Chatsworth House, home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire in Oxford.

I have to say, I prefer this Cruise collection more than both the Gucci ready to wear shows put together this year. The clothes were so much fun, with all the accessories, hats and gloves really adding to the different looks presented on the catwalk. And of course, I was proud that Michele chose England to showcase his collection, when there are so many stunning stately homes and cathedrals in Italy. And then the photos for the Cruise 2017 ad campaign were released, featuring veteran actress Vanessa Redgrave and a handful of models in the beautiful, British countryside. Shot by Glen Luchford, the photos capture the gardens and interior of Chatsworth to great effect, with the clothes styled by Joe Mckenna, perfectly complimenting the surroundings and vice versa. In one photo, a model perches on a blue bench surrounded by chickens happily strolling around her while in another Vedgrave, who is 79, smiles away while pottering in Chatsworth's stunning gardens with her handbag perched on a shovel.

I absolutely love this campaign, and there are so many pieces in the collection I would wear and buy. Unfortunately, my budget doesn't stretch that far, but I can still admire from a distance! The luxurious white cardigan with the classic Gucci red and blue stripe is a favourite. The Mens Cruise 2017 campaign also sticks with a British theme. Actor Tom Hiddleston features in the photographs in immaculate tailoring and stylish suits, with two Afghan Hounds as companions. There is no doubt that Gucci is the hottest brand at the moment, and I can't wait to see what they do next season.

And a sneak peak at the Mens-wear campaign, featuring Tom Hiddleston:
 Photos courtesy of Gucci and Glen Luchford.