Tuesday 6 October 2015

PFW: Including Stella McCartney, Hermes, Sacai & Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent
Hedi Slimane loves his rock chick. For Saint Laurent, he left off from last season and presented us with a rock and roll girl, complete with tiger print coats, fur jackets, muddy wellington boots (Glastonbury anyone?) and lots of mini silver metallic dresses. There was a fun touch with all the models wearing little tiaras on their heads, while the slinky black dresses at the end of the collection were jaw droppingly amazing. It was nice to see some evening-wear from Slimane who tends to focus more on day outfits, and lots of barely there little dresses. A fun collection, which was also dark and sexy, with a Rolling Stones influence.


Stella McCartney
I absolutely loved this Stella McCartney show. Shown first thing yesterday morning at PFW, it kicked off the day with a bang with a youthful, yet very stylish feel. Gingham dresses in red and yellow opened the collection, which then gave way to fringed dresses which looked very futuristic and super cool. As the models walked down the runway, the small knife pleats moved beautifully and the soft pairing of colours, such as lemon yellow, navy blue and pillar box red created lovely combinations. There were also pastel coloured suits paired with amazing sunglasses, and of course, Stella's famous net, cut out dresses at the end of the show. Some came off the shoulder while others bared cheeky glimpses of flesh. An amazing show.


Hermes
With all the fun, crazy shows shown today at PFW, Hermes almost feels to be left behind with their minimal, sculptural designs. But this is a fashion house which just screams luxury, and has no problem doing what they do best without all the gimmicks that go with it. White skirts came to midi length with coloured lines along the hems, beige suits and leather dresses were effortless and beautifully tailored to perfection. There were pops of colour in bright orange and cobalt blue, but if anything this was for Hermes' minimal clients who prefer to let the clean lines and sharp cuts of the clothes do the talking. Fluid, soft and elegant.


Sonia Rykiel
I was drawn to this collection mainly because of the make up. The dark eyes, which were soaked in metallic eye shadow were mysterious, pale lips added drama and the amazing sculpted cheek bones really stood out against the hair which was pulled back away from the face with a severe middle parting. As for the clothes, Sonia went for glamour with fringed mini dresses, plunging necklines, bright, bold colours and super trendy military jackets complete with buttons and belt. The shapes of the clothes were feminine with the waist accentuated with tight maxi dresses and peplum style tops. Even the strappy sandals were glam, and the fur stoles which were carried casually by the models.


Sacai
Not only was there an amazing roll call of models, but this show was daring, stylish, maximal and full of colour. There were strong oriental themes running throughout, with kimono style prints, gold brocade, layers of silk on patterned shirts and high necklines. But it was also fun, with sheer black t-shirts, neck scarves which were wrapped loosely around the neck and colour strewn onto flowing midi skirts.


Giambattista Valli
Valli really is the go-to designer for preppy, stylish, sophisticated dressing. It is an old fashion house seeped in history, but now has a very modern core and appeals to the chic girls of Paris and beyond. For spring/summer 2016 there were a-line mini skirts, similar to those that Nicholas Ghesquiere did at Louis Vuitton last season, buttoned up white coats, jazzy bolero jackets covered in jewels and heeled gladiator sandals which came in white and black. Models walked with flowing, blow dried hair, working fun mini dresses, printed blouses and Victorian-esque necklines.

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