50 Shades of Pink

From Disney princesses to Lady Penelope’s bright pink Rolls Royce, Victoria’s Secret to the iconic Pink Panther. It’s fair to say that plenty springs to mind when you ‘think pink,’ as Diana Vreeland once famously put it. In terms of fashion however, as soon as pink is added to the equation most people at once jump to the ultimate ‘dumb blonde’ stereotype, envisioning a dippy Elle Woods in ‘Legally Blonde.’

But for spring/summer 2016, gone is the Moschino Barbie girl Jeremy Scott brought to life last year, as designers introduced a fresh outlook on the colour, which felt and looked a lot more sophisticated, powerful and refined. 

Pink first popped up across the pond at New York Fashion Week, with Diane von Furstenberg, Herve Leger and Carolina Herrera all featuring striking yet delicate pinks in their collections. “This is my rose period,” Herrera told WWD after her show. “Fashion should be optimistic.” And there is no denying her sweeping chiffons, ruffled blouses and elegant midi skirts in tea rose, carnation and baby pink were enough to make anyone blissfully cheerful. JW Anderson, Emilia Wickstead and Roksanda Illinic followed suit in London. Meanwhile Fendi, who opened their show with Edie Campbell wearing a crimson playsuit, and Giorgio Armani led the way in Milan. Gucci’s Allesandro Michele played on pinks feminine connotations by featuring pastel shades on masculine 70s suits as did Roberto Cavalli, who included beautiful tie-dye waistcoats with splashes of magenta and coral in their collection.

Even Karl Lagerfeld, who once warned, “think pink, but don’t wear it,” seemed to do a U-turn on the colour, and sent out a stunning Chanel collection bursting with floral embroidery, classic tweed jackets and layered tunic and trouser combos – all in the sweetest shades of pink. “It’s interesting given the political and sociological contractions of pink, that designers embrace this colour again and again,” contemplates Emily Sheffield, deputy editor at British Vogue. It just proves there is something about pink which keeps fashion constantly coming back for more, despite its controversial undertones. 

Pink, which derived from a lighter tint of red, has been on quite a journey, with its romantic and seductive shades hugely popular in the royal courts of 18^th century Europe. But it was during the 1900s that pink really rose to prominence. Elsa Schiaparelli popularised the colour during the 1930s when she accidently mixed white with the strong hue of magenta and voila - her iconic ‘shocking pink’ was born. Since then, pink has featured throughout popular culture. From Marilyn Monroe’s strapless, fuchsia dress in ‘Gentlemen Prefer Blondes,’ and the famous hot pink Playboy bunny logo. To Gwyneth Paltrow’s amaranth Ralph Lauren gown at the 1999 Academy Awards, which caused quite a stir at the time, compared to her fellow nominees who chose more subdued dresses for the occasion. One particularly scathing fashion critic labelled Paltrow a, “Barbie doll wrapped in a satin ribbon,” - all because she wore pink. 

And this of course brings in the feminist issue. Should girls, already stereotyped as the weaker sex in society, wear such a delicate, feminine colour as pink? “Only if it suits them. I’m a huge fan - but then it suits me,” says Polly Vernon, Grazia columnist and author of ‘Hot Feminist’. And Polly’s not alone. Amal Clooney and Victoria Beckham are two respected, powerful women who regularly don smart, shift dresses in varying shades of pink, whereas multi award winning singer Rihanna, first shocked and then captivated the world with her huge Giambattista Valli couture dress at the 2015 Grammys, silencing her red carpet critics with her bravery to wear such a bold pink with style and elegance. Indeed it’s ironic to think that a hundred years ago, dark pink was a popular colour for new born baby boys as it represented power and strength. While blue, seen as a softer and more calming colour, was chosen for girls. Yet over time, and with the help of Barbie, gender norms have categorized all things pink solely for girls.

However, for 2016, this new wave of pink is not girly, or in any way submissive. Schiaparelli’s shocking pink is not on the agenda, but do invest in crisp corals, creamy cherry blossoms and pastel peony pieces, which will stand out against darker shades in your wardrobe.  If you’re feeling particularly daring, opt for a double breasted puce pink suit a la Gucci or for a more general take on the trend follow Monique Lhillier’s example and try a pair of patent, cerise sandals. Pink has re-claimed its power for next season, in all 50 shades of the colour. In the words of outspoken feminist and fashion enthusiast, Miley Cyrus, “pink isn’t just a colour. It’s an attitude.”