Thursday 25 February 2016

MFW: Fendi, Cavalli, Prada, Pucci and more...

Prada
Everyone waits for Prada at Milan Fashion Week. What will Miuccia do next? well for fall 2016, she went all sailor girl on us with models wearing Navy-esque hats and matching blue coats. There was still plenty of grunge in the form of long leather coats, tie up booties, patterned tights and fur rimmed jackets. Coats were fastened with pretty laces at the front, while the pop of red lipstick and slick hair only added to the Prada appeal. Prada do ugly chic. And there's no denying that this show was extremely ugly, but in a good way. I loved the leather gloves and side satchel bags which swung on the hip, as well as the use of floral prints.
Moschino
Jeremy Scott sent a burning dress down the Moschino catwalk this evening. Yes, a burning dress with smoke billowing out of it. A statement maybe that the fashion industry is a burn out... Anyway, apart from that little spectacle this Moschino show was trashy, tacky and AMAZING! From the mini leather skirts and 80s style blouses to the heeled boots and logo-tastic belts, it was all out New York hipster. There was enough sex appeal in the form of shiny hats and boots yet also enough luxury high fashion, I can imagine some of those coats will cost well over £4000. Lipsticks, teddy bears and maximal effect.
Emilio Pucci
To think that when Peter Dundas was at Emilio Pucci it was so glamorous and red carpet ready. Now thanks to Massimo Giorgetti of MSGM fame, Pucci has become extremely modern and very sporty. Geometric sport shapes took center stage today, with splashes of abstract colour on dresses and bomber jackets. PUCCI was emblazoned onto shiny tops, v neck dresses were loose and unstructured while the use of reds, khakis and blue were used boldly. They were colours which shouldn't have gone together but they did, so well.
Fendi
Oh Fendi, you do make my heart sing. I absolutely loved this collection from Silvia Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld. I felt as though I could wear every single piece, and so many coats, boots and fur gilets are going to be on so many fashion editors must have lists for next season. It was big and beautiful, exactly what we love about Fendi, except maybe if you're anti-fur as there was a lot of it for fall 2016. Kendall Jenner opened the show (as Lagerfelds current muse) wearing a black and white stole attached to a navy coat, followed by a host of wonderful pieces. Blue was a key colour, toned down with navy and purified with baby blue shades on leather trousers and fluffy wool jumpers. 

Frills were everywhere, around necklines, on sleeves and even on handbags while the use of colour was bold and brilliant. Lagerfeld always references Fendi's past and their love of fur, so there was a lot of beautiful fur gilets, overcoats and accessories in this collection, adding a lot of glamour. The shoes were particularly interesting, worn with what looked like leather socks. They were extremely pretty and very frilly. A truly wonderful collection from the Italian masters.
MaxMara
What do you think of when you hear MaxMara? Nine times out of ten, it is their classic camel coat. This season however, it was hard to spot one. There were coats, plenty of them in long duster and mid length styles, as MaxMara updated their look this season, using racy body suits and sheer fishnet tights to create a sense of sex appeal. The black gloves and lipstick only added to the vampy look, which was very 1920s cabaret. Large stripes were featured on pockets, fur stoles and mohair jumpers, while polished, sophistication of MaxMara was still very much present.
Roberto Cavalli
Peter Dundas worked his magic once again for Roberto Cavalli, with an electrifying show. Since leaving Emilio Pucci, Dundas has been making waves for Cavalli with his glamorous, jet set style; perfect for all those Milanese fashioninstas (sorry to use that expression!) It was very 70s, with bohemian layering, floaty chiffon maxi dresses, scarves draped casually around the neck and flared trousers. Models looked sexy in satin gowns and velvet suiting, lace paneled dresses and sheer body suiting dripping in beige jewels. I loved the smoky eye make up and snakeskin boots.
Alberta Ferreti
Set on a dimly lit catwalk with a forest backdrop, this Alberta Feretti show was delicate and hauntingly beautifully. As always,there were lots of stunning silk dresses in soft burgundy and beige yet this season the classic slip dress was given a sexy revival in satin fabrics. Satin was used a lot throughout, on a bold red dress, white fur jumpsuit and even a matching green pyjama top and bottom. But really it was the attention to detail which made this collection stand out. Metallic coats looked as though they were made with Italian love, beading on sheer dresses were exquisite while the simple make up and clipped back hair only added to the purity of this show. A nice break from all the va-va voom glamour.

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