Dean and Dan Caten, the charismatic twins behind Dsquared2, are known for their outlandish sense of style, love of all things tribal and never disappoint to put on a good show. However, for fall 2016 I was a little disappointed with their collection, in that it just wasn't wow enough. There were still some beautiful fur coats which looked very Navajo, skinny combat trousers paired with feathered heels and clever use of layering, but there was no stand out moments. The end of the show saw lots of dark pieces presented on the catwalk, with black and navy taking center stage. But unfortunately there was no big finale.
The Missoni girl this season was not one to get cold, not with the amount of knitwear and layers she was wearing. Angela Missoni did what she does best: knits. Scarfs hung loosely around the neck almost touching the ground or draped around the shoulders, tunic jumpers were thick and comfy while the use of stripes were evident on leggings, shift dresses and basically just about everything else. All the pieces looked so luxe and comfortable that this collection really did bring a sense of comfort to Milan Fashion Week.
Geometric stripes, colour blocking, over sized buttons and zig zag patterns; this Salvatore Ferragamo show was just packed with bold brightness. Models looked slick with hair pulled over to one side and minimal make up leaving the clothes to show off even more. Knitted crop tops were paired with pleated midi skirts, black and white check patterns came on blouses while yet again, stripes had their moment, with even the catwalk decorated in pastel coloured stripes. Not one of the best shows I've seen from Ferragamo, but still very sophisticated and wearable.
Marni are known for their loose silhouettes, tailored white pieces and use of heavy jewellery. This show had all of that in bucket loads. From the apple green oversized knits at the beginning of the show to the patterned trousers suits accessorised with across the body bags, there was really something for everyone, all stamped with the classic Marni mark. I especially liked the simple white shifts with a splash of scally colours across the middle.
I cannot express how amazed/pleasantly surprised I was with this Jil Sander collection. Usually I don't take a second glance at Jil Sander, who I find to be very dull and too minimal. This show was minimal but so beautiful at the same time. The opening looks of the double breasted coats in white and black as well as the overall tailoring were sublime. What followed were Celine-esque sunglasses paired with tight fitting knit dresses, long sleeved blazers in grey wool and even a couple of metallic strappy dresses at the end of the show. Jil Sander are known for their effortless tailoring, and this fall 2016 winter collection was a perfect example to other designers on how to do tailored with style.
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
I feel as though Lorenzo Serafini sometimes go by unnoticed at Milan Fashion Week, even though what he has done for Philosophy has been immense. His sexy, refined designs for fall 2016 were polished and effortless with lots of leather pieces. I liked the pussy-bow blouses, paired with lace panelled skirts and black kitten heels as well as the mix of shearling coats with tailored white trousers. There was lots to wear within this collection which was nice as sometimes at Milan there are many designers who really aren't practical for everyday wear, ahem Versace.
Blumarine
Colourful, abundant and fur-tastic. I always put this designer in the same boat as Blugirl (for obvious reasons) and Moschino, just because I don't take them as seriously as the other Milanese fashion houses. Nevertheless, this show was very glamorous and sophisticated with lots of fur gilets, huge pastel blue shearling coats and cute little jumpsuits to counter such appeal.
I have always been a fan of Thomas Maier. HIs ladylike shapes and 1950s references are always given a modern twist with the variety of shapes and fabrics he uses. For autumn/winter 2016, there was a real mix-match of colours and prints. A leopard print jacket there, a plaid wool skirt there and beautiful wool sweaters cinched in at the waist - this was really the return of the lady like silhouette. Adriana Lima, Irina Shayk and Kendall Jenner were just some of the big names walking in this show, all wearing a splattering of dark burgundy lipstick with their hair pulled back into a severe middle parting. Uniformal and driven.
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