Showing posts with label MaxMara. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MaxMara. Show all posts

Thursday, 22 September 2016

Gucci, MaxMara, Roberto Cavalli and more at MFW 16

 GUCCI
It's fair to say that this Milan fashion week, Gucci was the big show everyone didn't want to miss. Alessandro Michele didn't disappoint either. Following on from his last couple of seasons at Gucci, the geek chic revival continued in style. Chiffon multi-coloured dresses, cute little tweed suits with the Gucci colours, logo mania, bright colours colliding with prints and patterns... just another day in the life of Michele. I would have though that maybe he would have mixed things up a little bit, perhaps changing his theme slightly. But no, Gucci stuck with what has made them one of the hottest houses in fashion - the geeky, gender fluid look. I love it, I really do, but how long this can continue for without getting boring I don't know.

MAXMARA
I really enjoyed this MaxMara show which was tropical, sexy and quite fun. From the exotic, palm prints to the high waisted black trousers and skinny belts, this show was very different to the usual MaxMara we are used to seeing. First of all, there weren't many coats, and seeing as this is spring/summer it does make sense. Secondly, there was print, different silhouettes, black visors and a real sense of sportswear - something we're not used to seeing at Maxmara at all. Gigi Hadid stepped out in a soft grey sweater, Mica Arganaraz wore a billowing white tiger cape while Taylor Hill wore all black head to toe.


ROBERTO CAVALLI
This season, Peter Dundas revived the 1970s, but in classic Roberto Cavalli style. More was more on the catwalk yesterday, with sumptuous layers, patchwork denim, sheer maxi dresses, patterned neck ties and plenty of print; something that Dundas does very well. I loved the stripes on pretty Bardot tops and trousers, as well as the long sweeping lines of the dresses, decorated with embellished necklines. It was fun, fearless and exciting!

 PHILIP PLEIN
I don't usually pay much attention to Philip Plein even though he usually has a steller class of models and plenty of glamour. This season however, he caught my eye for the outlandish references to the 80s, the sexy mini skirts and frayed denim and his use of amazing accessories. The show opened with Isabel Goulart and continued with a lot of skin on show, a little trashy at times, but then this is Milan Fashion Week, in the nicest sense. At the end of the show, Plein drove down the catwalk in his very own car. Not bad I have to say.. 
ALBERTA FERRETI
Wow, what a beautiful show. So feminine and pretty, but then that is what Alberta Ferreti does best season after season. Bella Hadid looked ravishing in a flamenco style purple skirt, as did Isabelli Fontana in a draped black suit cinched in tightly at the waist with a big belt. I loved the Spanish references with all the layers of fabric on skirts and dresses, as well as the pops of blue and red against black. There was a lot of black, which was surprising for spring/summer, with some nice white pieces too. If anything, I would describe this show as dramatic and very Mediterranean in flavour and style. Again, necklines were embellished as seen at Roberto Cavalli too. But overall, a wonderful show and a favourite of mine so far.

Friday, 26 February 2016

Versace, Emporio Armani, Sportmax and Etro at MFW

Versace
Gigi, Kendall, Natasha, Adriana, Jourdan, Irina, Mica... the roll call of famous faces at Versace were just rolling down the catwalk. Versace don't usually opt for navy, but this season Donatella was really feeling this colour. It featured on leather jackets, sporty trousers with neon stripes down the side, ankle boots and tailored coats.

Black and baby blue were added, with the mix of shades looking very pretty when worn together. There were a few jackets with large pockets which I completely fell in love with. Amazing. There were quite a few sugary sweet shades on mini dresses and coats, but there was plenty of sex appeal too, as there always is with Versace. Cut out black dresses clung to the body, sunglasses were paired with dominatrix leather coats while barely there slip dresses were a nod to the 90s. There were a number of looks in the middle of the show which looked like an explosion in a neon factory, with the bright colours featuring on suave jumpsuits and mini dresses. The styling was amazing with the sporty headbands worn around the forehead as were the delicate two tone jackets Donatella sent down her runway. One of my favourite Versace shows in recent years. 
Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani is always a big draw at MFW, especially his diffusion line Emporio Armani. This fall 2016 collection was particularly ground breaking or out of the ordinary, with all the classic Armani-isms present. The bowler hat, black suit with smart brooches, 80s mini dresses and jet set minimalism. The colours used were simple and refined as was the superb styling. It was nice to Armani take inspiration from the 80s hey day he was famous for, with all the geometric mini skirts and satin dresses a nice touch.
Tods
I don't usually pay much attention to Tods, even though I know they are such a respected Italian brand. Yet there was something about this collection which was extremely stylish and interesting. I loved all the beige tones, fur collars and long check coats, as well as the whole retro 70s theme. Models walked with hair simplified with hardly any make up on which was refreshing, and a little different to what we're used to seeing at Milan Fashion Week.
Sportmax
After the fantastic MaxMara show earlier on in the week, I expected this Sportmax show to be just as good. There were sporty stripes and geometric shapes, khaki tones and very loose silhoutees. I loved the mohair jumpers with squiggly lines printed all over them, the slouchy white trousers and shift dresses tied neatly at the front. Stripes are a big thing this season (aren't they always) and after this show, I feel as though they will for autumn/winter 2016 too.
Etro
I have to be honest here, and say that I was a little disappointed with this Etro collection. Usually I adore all the romantic florals, boho chic and sweeping dresses, but this show just seemed a little faded and not very exciting. The opening look of a long duster coat and knitted striped scarf was very un-inspirational, as were many of the dull looks that followed. I did however like the subtle military references on bolero jackets and coats. But not the best show from Etro.

Thursday, 25 February 2016

MFW: Fendi, Cavalli, Prada, Pucci and more...

Prada
Everyone waits for Prada at Milan Fashion Week. What will Miuccia do next? well for fall 2016, she went all sailor girl on us with models wearing Navy-esque hats and matching blue coats. There was still plenty of grunge in the form of long leather coats, tie up booties, patterned tights and fur rimmed jackets. Coats were fastened with pretty laces at the front, while the pop of red lipstick and slick hair only added to the Prada appeal. Prada do ugly chic. And there's no denying that this show was extremely ugly, but in a good way. I loved the leather gloves and side satchel bags which swung on the hip, as well as the use of floral prints.
Moschino
Jeremy Scott sent a burning dress down the Moschino catwalk this evening. Yes, a burning dress with smoke billowing out of it. A statement maybe that the fashion industry is a burn out... Anyway, apart from that little spectacle this Moschino show was trashy, tacky and AMAZING! From the mini leather skirts and 80s style blouses to the heeled boots and logo-tastic belts, it was all out New York hipster. There was enough sex appeal in the form of shiny hats and boots yet also enough luxury high fashion, I can imagine some of those coats will cost well over £4000. Lipsticks, teddy bears and maximal effect.
Emilio Pucci
To think that when Peter Dundas was at Emilio Pucci it was so glamorous and red carpet ready. Now thanks to Massimo Giorgetti of MSGM fame, Pucci has become extremely modern and very sporty. Geometric sport shapes took center stage today, with splashes of abstract colour on dresses and bomber jackets. PUCCI was emblazoned onto shiny tops, v neck dresses were loose and unstructured while the use of reds, khakis and blue were used boldly. They were colours which shouldn't have gone together but they did, so well.
Fendi
Oh Fendi, you do make my heart sing. I absolutely loved this collection from Silvia Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld. I felt as though I could wear every single piece, and so many coats, boots and fur gilets are going to be on so many fashion editors must have lists for next season. It was big and beautiful, exactly what we love about Fendi, except maybe if you're anti-fur as there was a lot of it for fall 2016. Kendall Jenner opened the show (as Lagerfelds current muse) wearing a black and white stole attached to a navy coat, followed by a host of wonderful pieces. Blue was a key colour, toned down with navy and purified with baby blue shades on leather trousers and fluffy wool jumpers. 

Frills were everywhere, around necklines, on sleeves and even on handbags while the use of colour was bold and brilliant. Lagerfeld always references Fendi's past and their love of fur, so there was a lot of beautiful fur gilets, overcoats and accessories in this collection, adding a lot of glamour. The shoes were particularly interesting, worn with what looked like leather socks. They were extremely pretty and very frilly. A truly wonderful collection from the Italian masters.
MaxMara
What do you think of when you hear MaxMara? Nine times out of ten, it is their classic camel coat. This season however, it was hard to spot one. There were coats, plenty of them in long duster and mid length styles, as MaxMara updated their look this season, using racy body suits and sheer fishnet tights to create a sense of sex appeal. The black gloves and lipstick only added to the vampy look, which was very 1920s cabaret. Large stripes were featured on pockets, fur stoles and mohair jumpers, while polished, sophistication of MaxMara was still very much present.
Roberto Cavalli
Peter Dundas worked his magic once again for Roberto Cavalli, with an electrifying show. Since leaving Emilio Pucci, Dundas has been making waves for Cavalli with his glamorous, jet set style; perfect for all those Milanese fashioninstas (sorry to use that expression!) It was very 70s, with bohemian layering, floaty chiffon maxi dresses, scarves draped casually around the neck and flared trousers. Models looked sexy in satin gowns and velvet suiting, lace paneled dresses and sheer body suiting dripping in beige jewels. I loved the smoky eye make up and snakeskin boots.
Alberta Ferreti
Set on a dimly lit catwalk with a forest backdrop, this Alberta Feretti show was delicate and hauntingly beautifully. As always,there were lots of stunning silk dresses in soft burgundy and beige yet this season the classic slip dress was given a sexy revival in satin fabrics. Satin was used a lot throughout, on a bold red dress, white fur jumpsuit and even a matching green pyjama top and bottom. But really it was the attention to detail which made this collection stand out. Metallic coats looked as though they were made with Italian love, beading on sheer dresses were exquisite while the simple make up and clipped back hair only added to the purity of this show. A nice break from all the va-va voom glamour.

Friday, 25 September 2015

Milan Fashion Week: Day 3 Highlights

Versace
Yes, this was Donatella at her finest. From the first looks worn by supermodel Raquel Zimmermann to the last, closed by Russian model Natasha Poly, this was a show which was classic Versace in every possible way. All short, mini dresses, hot mini skirts and plenty of leopard print. I loved everything about this show, which featured some of my favourite models such as Anna Ewers, Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls and Hanne Gaby Odiele. From the military inspired khaki looks at the beginning of the show to the swirly, 80's style dresses at the end.

I loved the big belts which cinched in already tiny waists and the strappy sandals, which some models wore with socks, and came creepy up past the ankle in neon yellow, orange and green as well as the bomber jackets in shiny metallic. It was so glossy, even though some may have the cheek to call it tacky. The mini dresses at the end of the show were extremely short and were covered in over-sized, green and yellow leopard and peacock prints. There was just a lot of leg on show, but then what's Versace without a bit of sexy sass? It was one of the best Versace collections I have seen for a while, with plenty of attitude and sexy, structured pieces. A clear highlight from Milan Fashion Week from an absolutely legendary designer: the incredible Donatella Versace.


Emporio Armani
Soft summer sunsets and dusky walks along a deserted beach sprang to mind while watching the Emporio Armani spring/summer 2016 show. All the beautiful colours (mainly pink) romantically merged in together while the sweeping shapes and elegant lines were classic Armani tailoring. It was slouchy, but never loosing the quintessential style the Milanese are known for, with simple t-shirts paired with smart blazers and organza skirts came layered bold necklaces. It was sublime and seamlessly constructed, with stripes again playing a part in the collection. At least we know that stripes will be a thing for next season now. A wonderful show for a man celebrating 40 years in the business.


Etro
I absolutely love this brand, in what seems to be a love affair which grows stronger and stronger each season. Today, Etro was romantic, soft and a little boho in what was a collection which consisted of only the most beautiful, delicate and pretty pieces. I loved the long, flowing floral maxi dresses with 70's gypsy style detailing as well as the lovely colour scheme of purple, burgundy, blue and beige. These shades were muted and elegant; I can imagine the perfect Etro customer wearing such pieces while holidaying in the French Riviera, lounging on their yacht anchored out at sea. Definitely one of my favourite shows, just because if I was rich enough I would snap everything up straight away!

  
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini 
Reminiscent of the peasant girl beauty of Alberta Ferreti and Valentino, this show by Lorenzo Serafini was lovely and pretty. The clothes which consisted of silk white shirts, sheer layers of black lace gowns, ruffled gowns which bared the legs, white shorts and plenty of blue paired with less bold colours. I loved the dungarees and the white midi dresses which came in small, intricate patterns and cinched in waists. And with supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio closing the show wearing a black, strapped silk dress and a pair of black patent boots, this collection was a huge success.

  
Blumarine
I always feel that Blumarine and their sister label, Bluegirl tend to go quite unnoticed on the international fashion scene, even though they are a respected brand which have been going for quite a while. I enjoyed their show today, which was soft in the use of pastel colours but also harsh in their dramatic black capes, sheer dresses and coats. I loved the floral embellishment on dresses as well as the prints on skirts and tops, which featured soft stripes and graphic roses in an array of bright colours. The transparent chiffon skirts which were covered in clever embroidery were so pretty as were the minimally constructed jackets with two large pockets on the front. A lovely show.

  
Sportmax
Punchy, bold, bright, on point... I could go on forever with complimentary words, but this collection from Sportmax was so sleek and sharp that it was quite impossible to ignore. Black and white were paired with bold blues, yellows and oranges, with soft patent leather playing a big part on coats, shirts and skirts.  It was graphic in that not a spot was out of place and everything was cut to such a precise angle that it did make quite a statement, reminding me a little of the sharpness of Fendi. I loved the sleekness of the show, it was rich and luxurious and reminded me a little bit of a paint palette in how organised and neat the colours and over-sized shapes were. The only thing I wasn't too keen on was the shoes which were so clunky and big that they didn't go with the whole look of the clothes. But nevertheless, I actually preferred this show to MaxMara yesterday - but don't tell anyone!