PFW HIGHLIGHTS: Chloe, Balmain, Loewe and Lanvin

BALMAIN

Kim Kardashian tried desperately to shift attention to herself, perched on the Balmain front row in a very revealing black lace dress. But Olivier Rousteing outshone Kim and sister Kourtney, also present on the f-row, with another stunning collection. From the burnt orange shades which opened the show, to the stripy metallics, cut out dresses and sweeping silhouettes of the long capes, this spring/summer 2017 show was very stylish, strong and drop dead gorgeous. And what a cast was assembled. Natasha Poly opened the show, followed by Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Constance Jablonski, Isabelli Fontana, Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio and Josephine Skriver. When you've got that many supermodels on the runway, its hard to look away.

CHLOE

This show didn't particularly inspire or excite me. Feminine, sweet and fresh, Clare Waight Keller delivered a very saccharine outlook for Chloe next season. From the ruffled mini dresses in layers of chiffon to the minimal navy and whites, paired together on dresses, trousers and tops, this collection was simple yet effective. I liked the use of stripes and the florals at the end of the show as well as the thick straps on dresses and tops. A different look for next season from the Bardot neckline which ruled this last summer.

ISABEL MARANT

Classic with a sporty twist is how I would describe Isabel Marant's lastest collection. Gigi Hadid opened the show in a belted dress which resembled a longer version of a hoody, while belts really did reign supreme here. I loved the utility look with the oversized denim and the Victorian ruffles - two things which shouldn't go together but did. I did spot some similarities to Celine's spring/summer 2016 collection, such as the use of zippers and balloon sleeves tops. But I'm sure this is more coincidence than direct copying.

LOEWE

JW Anderson continues to rule the roost at Loewe. I'm not really a fan of his own label what he does for Loewe is so cool, modern and unique. I loved the Victorian influences, the orange stripes on trousers and sleeves, the all black Matrix kind of looks and the oversized jewellery. Also, those bags were pretty amazing too as was the orange/brown colour pallet.

 
CARVEN

What drew me to Carven this Paris Fashion Week was the sporty influences that ran throughout the collection. I loved the mini skirts which looked more like kilts, paired with knitted jumpers reminiscent of the awful tops golfers wear - but in a good way. Black and navy stood out against oranges and reds while white was used a breath of fresh air.

LANVIN

I was a little apprehensive before the Lanvin show this week. First of all, Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands since I was about 14, mainly due to the designs of the now legendary Alber Elbaz. Every season I waited with baited breath for what beautiful creations he would send down the catwalk, and was rarely disappointed. Secondly, with Bouchra Jarrar now in creative control, I wanted her to do a good job for the sake of the fashion house. And I can happily report that she did.

Monochrome looks were effortless, sheer skirts and draped tops looked amazing together, ostrich feathers worn around necklines added a touch of glamour while the influence of the classic men's dinner suit was adapted in grace and ease. I loved the slickness of the whole show. The quality, as you would expect of Lanvin, was amazing and the style of clothes did very much remind me of all Elbaz did for the house. A wonderful show with so many lovely pieces to wear in the evening.

SAINT LAURENT

Anthony Vacarello and Hedi Slimane are very similar I've decided. This Saint Laurent show could have easily been designed by Slimane, now departed from the house, such were the rock star influences and LA grunge style. But Vacarello looked into the Yves Saint Laurent archives and pulled upon pieces from the 1980s synonymous with the fashion house. The big shoulder pads, a-symmetric dresses, skinny black suits and of course, the leather jacket thrown casually over the shoulders. It was sexy with lots of sheer lace details on dresses with lots of legs on display too, but also very glamorous. The black stilettos with the letters YSL embedded into the heel were particularly cool. I think Vacarello is a good fit for Saint Laurent. Let's hope he doesn't make the same mistakes Slimane made and mixes things up for next season.

Dior, Lanvin, Mugler, Elie Saab and more at PFW 2016

Elie Saab
You don't get more beautiful dresses than at Elie Saab. This luxury brand are known for their simply sublime dresses, which never look amiss at the Oscars or Grammys. For fall, they went a little rock and roll, presenting a collection packed full of cool black leather jackets, polka dot skirts, 70s silk blouses and lace paneled dresses. Kendall Jenner looked amazing in a pink tie-dye dress while Magdalena Frackowiak stole the show in a red boho silk gown, with extra long sleeves and bare shoulders. I loved the smoky eye make up, adding to the glamorous rock theme as well as the roll call of fabulous dresses, I would literally do anything to wear. Even the black lace mini dresses were amazing, paired with floppy hats straight from the 1970s and chic knee high boots. A really great show.

Nina Ricci
Peter Copping's departure from Nina Ricci marked a turning point for the brand. Gone was all the glorious femininity which Copping carried over to his new home at Oscar de la Renta, and in came more raw pieces, but still refined enough to live up to the Nina Ricci name. Today, the autumn/winter 2016 collection was elegant and slightly dark, with lots of 90s slip dresses, layering of large coats, leather and satin skirts and even a grey buttoned cape. The models looked simple with hair swept back and minimal make up, letting the clothes do all the talking. I loved the midi skirts which fell to just above the ankle and the pointy high heels.

Mugler
I have always loved Thierry Mugler for their sexy midi dresses, form fitting skirts and amazing tailoring. For Fall 2016, Mugler delivered an amazing show, consisting of lots of leather, bright bursts of lemon yellow and of course, a few black dresses. Shiny leather trousers were paired with boots and stylish blouses, boxy jackets were worn with cigarette pants while textures were used such as crocodile and leopard on mini skirts and the lapels of coats. The dresses towards the end of the show were the most sculptural, cut away at the waist, with deep v necks or thigh high splits. You've definitely got to be a size 8 or smaller to wear these Mugler dresses well, as they clung to every lump and bump. But when you're Joan Smalls (who closed the show in a floor length dress) I guess these things don't matter!

Yohji Yamamoto
I'm not really a Yohji fan, but this fall 2016 collection was striking and very edgy. From the severe black lipstick and the very monochrome ensembles, this was classic Yohji in every possible way. Long lean silk trousers were worn with long cardigans or sleeveless waistcoats, buttoned silk shirts were cut short with material purposefully turned inside out while the chunky biker boots only added to hard-core, Avant Garde look. Minimalism at its finest.

Christian Dior
The sad thing about Dior at the moment is that it has kind of lost its way a little bit. Raf has gone, there's no new creative director, the design team have had to take over and it's all a bit of a shambles really. Todays Dior collection was nice, carrying on from where Raf Simmons left off in October. It was slick in its use of cold colours against black and white, while the simplicity of the clothes kept the new minimal Dior look alive. It was a surprise to see Kendall Jenner walking for such a prestigious name as Dior, yet what she wore on the catwalk was stylish with a fur lapelled black dress. Unfortunately this show will not count for much, it's painful to say, as it will be forgotten in Dior's history. I loved the round sunglasses and pointed brogues though, very cool.

Lanvin
I have to say the same thing about Lanvin as I did with Dior. Lanvin, a brand which flourished under the guidance of Alber Elbaz for 14 amazing years, has sadly been tossed to the side as we wait for a new creative director to be announced. LVMH have given no hint whatsoever when that will be, and judging by this collection they need to find someone new...fast! There was nothing wrong with their fall 2016 show, it just lacked the precision and razor sharp tailoring we have become used to under Elbaz. The a-symmetric dresses were in there, pretty lace tops with black trousers, silk pastel coloured skirts and fur stoles, but it wasn't exciting or dramatic. Even the venue was different. Since I was 13 Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands and I really want them to be incredible once again. Bring back Alber!

Isabel Marant
For chic Parisian style, look no further than Isabel Marant. This lady has led the way for years when it comes to the cool, effortless attitude French women carry so well, and for fall 2016 she delivered another collection packed full of winter basics. From the belted black coats and cosy beige knits, to the preppy curled hair and zebra print leggings, each piece would fit perfectly in with anyone's wardrobe. Anna Ewers closed the show in a barely there LBD complete with ruffles and ruching on the side, but all the looks really were just as cool.  

Loewe
What J.W Anderson is doing at Loewe is just really incredible. This young British designer has turned a rather old fashioned fashion house into one of the most influential brands in the world, with collections which keep pushing the boundaries season after season. This season he sent cat mask necklaces down the catwalk in all different colours (I want one!) layered over tan leather jackets, black corset dresses, graphic t-shirts and even tweed two pieces. Styles were loose, with coats dropping to well below the knee and cinched in at the waist. Very cool and very modern.

A Lanvin Tribute to Alber Elbaz

After 14 years and numerous beautiful collections, it was revealed last week that designer Alber Elbaz was leaving fashion house Lanvin. It was indeed a short, sharp shock which came out of the blue, with no one even suspecting that all was not as it seemed at Lanvin and that Elbaz would very soon be out of the job. I couldn't quite believe it when I heard the news as Alber has taken on his role as Lanvin's creative director with so much love, passion and success that it made no sense in my mind why such a talented man would step away from his spotlight.

In a statement issued by the designer, Alber explained his reasons for leaving which was the choice of Lanvin's majority shareholder, not his own.“At this time of my departure from Lanvin on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder. I wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the last 14 years . . . together, we have met the creative challenge presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury houses.” What will he do next? That's up to him to decide, eve though some tipped him to take over from Raf Simmons at Dior. Yet, Elbaz has said that he wants to step away from the fast pace fashion is moving these days, so a move to Dior looks very unlikely.

I have a few favourite designers, but I can safely say that Lanvin was the first - even before my love for Dolce and Gabbana blossomed. It was the spring/summer 2010 collection which first drew me to Alber and Lanvin, after seeing a few catwalk looks in the newspaper. As an eager 13 year old, who did not know much about fashion, these beautiful prom dresses in sweeping chiffon and taffeta took my breath away and to this day, that show remains one of favourites of all time. From the gorgeous jewel colours in fuchsia pink, burnt orange and emerald green to the line up of supermodels including Freja Beha-Erichson, Ginta Lapina, Natasha Poly, Lily Donaldson, Magdelena Frackowiak, Sasha Pivovarova and Karlie Kloss, this show embodied everything which was wonderful about Alber's design talents. I still love the chunky statement necklaces, the a-symmetric ruffles, the draping of the peplum skirts and Brigitte Bardot hair styles created by the one and only Guido from that spring 2010 collection, and it's safe to say that from that day on Lanvin was a definite highlight of Paris Fashion Week for me.

Over the years, Alber Elbaz has brought a sense of cheeky fun to fashion, not only through his smile and wave at the end of his shows but also through his love of fashion illustrations, clever ad campaigns, high end glamour as seen on the red carpet and who could forget that beautiful Lanvin x H&M collection, which was a huge success. He knows his customers, and has made Lanvin completely his own through his love of silk, sweeping dresses, cute jewel encrusted mini dresses, chic black suits, elegant hats (as seen last season) and love of all things feminine and pretty. I am really at a loss to think of who can replace such an extraordinary man who knows the rich history and DNA of Lanvin so well. But whoever it is, they have a pretty large pair of shoes to fill.

Of course, this story has been huge fashion news with Raf Simmons departure of Christian Dior the week before taking centre stage, and has sparked wide debate that taking control of a fashion house in the 21st century is more of a curse than a blessing. I read a fantastic article in the Evening Standard by fashion editor Karen Dacre on Thursday which summed this pressure and constant need to perform perfectly, with her analysis of designers such as Raf, Alber Elbaz, Alexander Wang and John Galliano who all struggled to keep up with the demanding schedule of the increasing number of collections per year. It's fair to say that becoming a creative director of a fashion brand now is not just about designing clothes. You literally become the 'brand,' taking on the role of promoting the label, a social media manager, designer, motivator, an artist with an acute business mind and a whole lot more. We could see clearly in the fashion documentary 'Dior and I' how under pressure Raf Simmons was, literally having to escape to the roof on the day of his fist Dior haute couture collection. And lets not forget the fate of his predecessor Galliano, a man who started off designing 2 collections a year for Dior which by the time his stint ended had increased to a jaw dropping 12. It's not a pretty job, trust me.

Saying that I don't think Raf was right for Dior - and I said that from the first day the news broke that he would be the new creative director of the house. He did deliver some nice collections, but a heritage fashion house such as Christian Dior needs a big personality and someone with a  very thick skin and a no nonsense attitude to run such a huge empire. Personally, I think LVMH should replace Raf with someone in house, who knows the brand like the back of their hand and has a deep passion for success (and pressure) which doesn't faze them in any way. And as for Alber's replacement... I am waiting with baited breath, with still hope that this nightmare would have all been a dream and he continues to stay at his brand.

Take a look at my favourite Lanvin collection by Alber Elbaz, from spring/summer 2010...

Paris Fashion Week: Best in Show

Balmain
Oh how I love Olivier Rousteing! Today's eagerly anticipated Balmain show was nothing short of fabulous, powerful, sexy, strong and majestic all rolled into one. Starting with bright orange suede looks, paired with deeper beige, the classic boxy jacket and skinny trouser combo were immediately introduced, as well as fierce shoulder pads and cinched in waists. Dresses were as clingy and form fitting as ever, with emphasis on leotards worn underneath sheer midi skirts - the kind you can imagine Kim Kardashian spilling out of in a couple of months time. I also loved the sporty punches of colour and geometric pattern.

It was indeed the return of the 'Balmain Army' or in basic talk, the most beautiful, in demand models in the world. Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio, Isabeli Fontana, Costance Jablonski, Binx Wilson, Magdalena Frackowiak, Lindsay Wixon, Joan Smalls, Ginta Lapina, Kendall, Gigi, Bella.... the list literally goes on. But lets just say its quite an impressive ensemble which reflects the current prestige of Balmain in the show-off world of fashion. I loved all the power dressing and ruffled skirts, as well as the amazing mesh dresses and lace up booties. The whole feel of the collection was as slick as the models perfectly gelled back hair which hung in a high ponytail, with plenty of glamour and spice thrown into such a collection which we all know will sell out almost immediately when it hits stores. Another fantastic, energy charged, exhilarating show from Mr Rousteing who is literally turning the fashion world on its head.

  
Lanvin
I have to admit, this was not one of my favourite Lanvin collections, but it still was beautiful. Alber Elbaz, one of the most talented designers in the world, went for lovely prom dresses, jewel colours and chic monochrome looks this season, with plenty of accessories and amazing shoes. All the models rocked cropped hairstyles, while the shirt and trouser combo worked really well for such an elegant, luxury brand. It was a more gritty than previous Lanvin shows, but still had that sparkle. 

Chloe
I always looks forward to the Chloe shows at Paris Fashion Week. They are always light, pretty and wearable with key looks which later turn into much loved go-to editorial pieces. This season, Chloe went a little sporty but still stayed true to the delicate, carefree spirit it is known for. Tracksuits, hoodies,  vests and colours such as red and blue were a kind of grown up sporty chic, which gave way to mini dresses and paisley patterned jackets and trousers. I loved the white and pastel, lace dresses at the end of the collection, which were beautiful and a little 70's with all the silk ruffles.

Dries Van Noten
It was all 1950's glamour but with a 21st century twist at Dries Van Noten. Of course, there were plenty of prints, clashing colours, bold patterns and an added, imperial shine, but above all that, this was actually a very wearable and exciting collection. There was an eastern traveler vibe through all of the silk trousers with kimono style belts and metallic fabrics, as well as a sense of fun with black and white patterned tights, paired with high wedge sandals. If you are indeed planning on traveling the world, be sure to pack Noten somewhere in your suitcase as he understands this look so well.

Maison Martin Margiela
If you are a reader of this blog, you will know that I am one of John Galliano's most biggest fans! I'm not going to delve into the past and get all gushy about his return to fashion, but thank goodness he did. Margiela is a fashion house known for anonymity, new concepts and minimal tailoring, three things which Galliano did perfectly. It was seeped in historical references and beautiful geisha like kimono dresses, while the models wore beehives in their hair, adding a touch of 60s nostalgia. A wonderful collection from an amazing designer.

Anthony Vaccarello
Fresh from his amazing collection for Versus Versace at LFW, Vaccarello kicked things off across the water at Paris Fashion Week with a great collection, packed full of all his sexy classics. Mini dresses, daring flashes of leg, cut-out dresses, super skinny jeans... it was all in there. Models were cool and understated in khaki coloured jackets and short/skirts while I loved the tough love feel to the show. Who doesn't need a bit of Vaccarello magic in their lives?