Thursday, 29 September 2016

PFW HIGHLIGHTS: Chloe, Balmain, Loewe and Lanvin

BALMAIN
Kim Kardashian tried desperately to shift attention to herself, perched on the Balmain front row in a very revealing black lace dress. But Olivier Rousteing outshone Kim and sister Kourtney, also present on the f-row, with another stunning collection. From the burnt orange shades which opened the show, to the stripy metallics, cut out dresses and sweeping silhouettes of the long capes, this spring/summer 2017 show was very stylish, strong and drop dead gorgeous. And what a cast was assembled. Natasha Poly opened the show, followed by Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Constance Jablonski, Isabelli Fontana, Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio and Josephine Skriver. When you've got that many supermodels on the runway, its hard to look away.

CHLOE
This show didn't particularly inspire or excite me. Feminine, sweet and fresh, Clare Waight Keller delivered a very saccharine outlook for Chloe next season. From the ruffled mini dresses in layers of chiffon to the minimal navy and whites, paired together on dresses, trousers and tops, this collection was simple yet effective. I liked the use of stripes and the florals at the end of the show as well as the thick straps on dresses and tops. A different look for next season from the Bardot neckline which ruled this last summer.

ISABEL MARANT
Classic with a sporty twist is how I would describe Isabel Marant's lastest collection. Gigi Hadid opened the show in a belted dress which resembled a longer version of a hoody, while belts really did reign supreme here. I loved the utility look with the oversized denim and the Victorian ruffles - two things which shouldn't go together but did. I did spot some similarities to Celine's spring/summer 2016 collection, such as the use of zippers and balloon sleeves tops. But I'm sure this is more coincidence than direct copying.

LOEWE
JW Anderson continues to rule the roost at Loewe. I'm not really a fan of his own label what he does for Loewe is so cool, modern and unique. I loved the Victorian influences, the orange stripes on trousers and sleeves, the all black Matrix kind of looks and the oversized jewellery. Also, those bags were pretty amazing too as was the orange/brown colour pallet.
 
CARVEN
What drew me to Carven this Paris Fashion Week was the sporty influences that ran throughout the collection. I loved the mini skirts which looked more like kilts, paired with knitted jumpers reminiscent of the awful tops golfers wear - but in a good way. Black and navy stood out against oranges and reds while white was used a breath of fresh air.

LANVIN
I was a little apprehensive before the Lanvin show this week. First of all, Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands since I was about 14, mainly due to the designs of the now legendary Alber Elbaz. Every season I waited with baited breath for what beautiful creations he would send down the catwalk, and was rarely disappointed. Secondly, with Bouchra Jarrar now in creative control, I wanted her to do a good job for the sake of the fashion house. And I can happily report that she did.

Monochrome looks were effortless, sheer skirts and draped tops looked amazing together, ostrich feathers worn around necklines added a touch of glamour while the influence of the classic men's dinner suit was adapted in grace and ease. I loved the slickness of the whole show. The quality, as you would expect of Lanvin, was amazing and the style of clothes did very much remind me of all Elbaz did for the house. A wonderful show with so many lovely pieces to wear in the evening.

SAINT LAURENT
Anthony Vacarello and Hedi Slimane are very similar I've decided. This Saint Laurent show could have easily been designed by Slimane, now departed from the house, such were the rock star influences and LA grunge style. But Vacarello looked into the Yves Saint Laurent archives and pulled upon pieces from the 1980s synonymous with the fashion house. The big shoulder pads, a-symmetric dresses, skinny black suits and of course, the leather jacket thrown casually over the shoulders. It was sexy with lots of sheer lace details on dresses with lots of legs on display too, but also very glamorous. The black stilettos with the letters YSL embedded into the heel were particularly cool. I think Vacarello is a good fit for Saint Laurent. Let's hope he doesn't make the same mistakes Slimane made and mixes things up for next season.

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