From Marc Jacobs to Ralph Lauren; NYFW Highlights

RALPH LAUREN

There was a lot of talk surrounding Ralph Lauren this fashion week, as he announced that his brand would be staging 2 catwalk shows. As sales have fallen at Ralph Lauren over the past year, the designer introduced a new 'see now, shop now' approach to his latest collection. So pretty much what you see on the catwalk is available to buy straight away from any of his boutiques. Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Mica Arganaraz all made appearances, in a collection which was classic Ralph Lauren. From the Navajo references, smart grey suits, flared work trousers and the stunning jewel coloured evening dresses, this was Lauren at his finest while Julianne Moore and Rosie Huntington Whiteley watched from the front row.

Marc Jacobs

Well, Mr Jacobs certainly delivered quite a show for spring/summer 2017 as well as a lot of controversy. The problem wasn't the clothes, the make up or the staging on the catwalk. The issue which got a lot of people's backs up online and especially on Twitter was the fact that the models, mainly all white, were wearing fake dreadlocks, usually associated with black girls, not white girls. I thought the dread locks looked fun, edgy and experimental but I can easily see why this would have irked people. Why did Jacobs just not use black models? Race has always been a problem in fashion, especially for Italian designers, so it's a shame Marc Jacobs didn't use more stunning black girls like Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, Lineisy Montero, Binx Walton or Tami Williams.

Anyway, on to the collection itself. I LOVED this show. From the baby doll/Victoriana mini dresses to the retro 1970s feel, there was a real mix of influences going on. Continuing on from last season, Jacobs decided to send his models out in ridiculously high platform shoes in patent pink, metallic silver and purple. Metallics were used on coats and dresses as well as quilting patterns as seen on the coat worn by Gigi Hadid. I spotted leopard print and camouflage, large fur jackets, accentuated waists and a lot of layering. In fact, the whole thing looked as though it could have come straight out of a musical, maybe something like Starlight Express. Irina Shayk closed the show in a pair of high waist, pink hot pants and jacket, complete with matching boots. It was quite a spectacle, but that's what makes Marc Jacobs great.

Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid on the catwalk

 Hugo Boss

Jason Wu seems to be going from strength to strength as creative director at Boss. His latest collection for the minimal brand was colourful, fun yet stylish and extremely elegant. It was sporty yet relaxed with models walking in breach slides with hardly any make up or accessories. Oh and it was cool that Sasha Pivovarova opened the show too, and not Kendall/Bella/Gigi.

 Michael Kors

Apart from Bella Hadid's embarrassing trip down the catwalk, this show had a very easy going, relaxed feel to it. Kors gave us pretty floral tea dresses in navy and pink, grey check skirt suits, across the body satchel bags as worn by Joan Smalls who opened the show and some great options for evening wear with his sexy, black numbers which closed the show. I loved the messy beach hair and the wedge sandals, as well as the roll call of models. Carolyn Murphy closed the show in a lovely navy dress, while Cameron Russell, Anna Ewers, Taylor Hill and Andreea Diaconu all took their turn to walk. Amazing line up!

Rodarte

As always with Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy delivered a show packed full of beautiful yet slightly Gothic fashion. I loved all the pretty white looks that opened the show. The frills and ruffles were divine and the sheer fabrics layered over each other where just beautiful. By the way, white is a BIG colour for spring, or I should say 'tone' for next season. The embroidery was exquisite, the shearling jacket amazing with a black net skirt and boots while the decadent dresses at the end of the collection were stunning. Really captivating with such lovely colours.

 Victoria Beckham

I loved Victoria Beckham last season. With all the surfer chic references, it was pretty cool and quite different for her. This season however, I was bored by the 5th look. Yes she experimened with velvet, satin and silk and yes, there were a couple of nice dresses, but the overall feel of the show was very, well...boring. The punches of tangerine orange were nothing new for the designer while the bra let tops and skirts would have been nice with more detail. Not great from VB.

NYFW: Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and more...

Ralph Lauren
Oh, what a show! I always say they leave the best to last at NYFW, with Boss, Proenza, Ralph and Marc all showing on the last two days. And this Ralph Lauren show just exuded Hollywood glamour, a country gentleman's sensibility and an air of 1930s excellence. Beige tweeds, neutral trouser suits and tan jackets formed the first part of the show, nodding to the country living mantra Lauren is famous for promoting. It was nice seeing the models in such masculine clohting as it was softened with the delicate hair and make up as well as the materials used, such as suede and wool. The belted coats were another highlight, as were the gol brocade jackets, embellished skinny jeans and ruffled blouses.

Gone was the hot, Flamenco senorita we saw last season, as Lauren went back to his Hollywood glam look, with a number of beautiful jewel coloured dresses at the end of the show. Pleated royal red numbers looked amazing against regal golds and blacks, with the models all wearing shiny leather boots. I loved the final look, a simple black roll neck paired with a billowing gold skirt. Majestic and amazing!

Marc Jacobs
I have to be honest, this collection was rather terrifying. It was not only the sinister hair and make up which made models unrecognizable but the clothes itself, which bordered on Gothic Victoriana mixed with prarie girl. The shoes as well were unbelievably high and very punk, with their huge wedges and lace up fronts. Everything was over-sized which made the models look completely out of proportion, with longer arms and even longer bodies. The catwalk was bare, with no gimmicks as seen last season at Marc Jacobs, while Lady Gaga made a surprise turn on the catwalk, tiny compared to the heights of her fellow models. Not one of Marc's best shows, but food for thought anyway. 

Proenza Schouler
They continue to be one of my favourite design duos ever, and a firm fixture at New York Fashion Week. Proenza have proved that whatever they send down the runway is an instant trend and is copied by dozens more designers. This season, they stuck with their strappy dresses showing off the shoulders and decolletage area, added some cute laces and conjured up a new slim silhouette. Large, loose harem pants were paired with crisp jackets and black boots, white biker jackets were decked with buttons and that rabbit patchwork coat had everybody talking, and was undoubtedly the star of the show. Clean, easy and minimal, exactly what we have come to expect from Proenza Schouler.

Hugo Boss
Since Jason Wu took the helm at Boss a couple of seasons ago, their collections have just got better and better - but still stay loyal to the minimal look they are known for. This season, splashes of colours such as coral pink, khaki green and burnt orange were featured on dresses and tailored blouses paired chicly with black trousers. Pepulums were used on most pieces with the fabric delicately folded over midi dresses like an origami pattern. Models walked with their head pulled back with a middle parting with, you guessed it, minimal make up. As simple as Boss was, it was very effective.

Anna Sui
What more can I say about the Anna Sui show... it was just classic Anna. A lot of the patterns we had already seen before, with strong references to boho chic and a 70s sensibility. A nice touch was seeing models walk in pairs down the runway, both wearing matching his and hers outfits. It was all very Mick Jagger complete with silk neck ties, metallic trousers and pretty baby doll dresses.Not one of my favourite collections from the veteran designer.

Michael Kors
Before the show even began, all eyes were on the beautiful Blake Lively who was sitting front row with her mum in a lovely beige coat and floral dress. Dressed head to toe in Kors, she looked every inch the movie star in the delicate colours and was joined by fellow actress Naomi Harris. As for the show, which was opened by Freja Beha Erichson, it was a autumnal mix of beige knitwear, feathered cropped trousers, fur coats and metallic mini dresses with dapper style fringing. There was no real theme, instead Kors gave us a little bit of everything from jeans to red carpet ready cocktail dresses. I loved the 60s baby blue coat with white collar and large sunglasses, as well as the overall styling of the collection. Check prints were paired with denim skirts, fur stoles with grey jersey and deep navies were used as a touch of sophistication to this all American woman. Another great show.

Marchesa
The Marchesa lady was in for a dramatic make over this fall. Gone were the pretty, frilled dresses we are so used to seeing and instead a sexier, more grown up woman was unveiled. A gold metallic dress shimmied down the runway, blue pastels were floaty and beautiful while the black sheer pieces were exceptionally beautiful but darkly mysterious. I loved the lace details and the bold use of reds and burgundy's against the black fabrics. As always, Marchesa delivered a beautiful collection. Watch the video below.

Best in Show at #NYFW

Proenza Schouler - This design duo always get it right, creating collections which are stylish, sophisticated and simple. The show, which consisted of only black and white was extremely chic, with black neck ties, flamboyant ruffles and cut away dresses baring the arms and shoulders with nautical inspired outfits. I loved the simplicity of this collection and the pared down elegance Proenza always do so well. Another one of my favourite shows from fashion week so far.

Michael Kors - Kors is always a big hit at New York and one of the city's main star attractions. However, for me this collection was not as good as previous seasons. I did like the clever dresses printed with blood red poppies and the contrast with black was effective and powerful. The slouchy, sportswear was cool and the layering was perfect for a casual spring day but there were no stand out pieces which really excited me. But Kors has his massive fan base who have no doubt fallen in love with this latest offering and will be a huge in sales come 2016.

Marchesa - Beautiful, majestic, wearable and wantable! Marchesa dresses are really the perfect item for any red carpet or evening event. Models looked slick with their hair tied back with a middle parting with pink lipstick and no jewellery. The dresses were breathtaking, covered in layers of chiffon, silk, sequins and feathers galore. The rainbow dress looked as though it leaped straight out of a contemporary Swan Lake ballet while the clear, frilled pieces were just gorgeous!

Anna Sui - So far designers at NYFW have been inspired particularly by the holiday theme, be that the Caribbean with Tommy Hilfiger or surfing the waves at Victoria Beckham. Anna Sui was no different with her Honolulu girls taking center stage in floral dresses, bright maxi dresses and colourful skirts. Flowers adorned on garlands around models' necks or embellished onto barely there slip dresses and shorts were cute and a breath of fresh air. It was fun and frivolous, the perfect holiday go-to collection.

DKNY - Since the news broke a couple of months ago that Donna Karan would be stepping down as creative director of her brand, there has been a lot of movement at DKNY, with the appointment of duo Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, previously the designers behind Public School. Focusing on three main tones, black, white and grey this collection consisted of perfect work wear pieces, from tailored pin stripe jackets to crisp trousers. Shapes were loose but stylish, with white tea dresses and elegant draping of fabrics adding to the uniform-esque feel of the show. Of course, it didn't have the same presence of Donna Karan, but this is a new era for the brand and it certainly looks promising.

Oscar de la Renta - Peter copping has worked his magic at Oscar de la Renta. The designer, previously at Louis Vuitton and Nina Ricci, is known for his eye for detail and superb colour combinations, something which he brought to the de la renta spring 2016 show today. Copping was inspired by Spanish matadors, particularly Ava Gardner's Spanish lover in the 1950's, gaining inspiration from their fiery costumes. I loved the ruffles and floral patterns, decorated on fitted dresses and ballgowns. A perfect new designer for such a much loved and respected fashion house.

#NYFW - Day 6

Marchesa
As light as a feather - this collection was, as always with Marchesa, absolutely beautiful. With a strong 1920's theme, ostrich feather dresses were soft and light while the decorative lace column dresses had Oscars written all over them. The tassels were amazing as were the sweeping dresses and glam earrings which the models wore, complete with 20's cropped hair styles. I also sensed a little flamenco style seeping through some opening looks, with fiery red and black ensembles adding a touch of drama for next season.

Anna Sui
Gigi Hadid added a touch of Californian chic as she opened this very 70's Anna Sui show. If anything, this was a classically warm, winter show full of fur hats, cosy coats, cardigans and lots of woolly layers. There was a care free, Navajo spirit to some of the looks while bohemian necklaces and harem pants gave us a bit of hippy cool. Peace man!

Micahel Kors
Opened by Russian supermodel Natasha Poly, this Kors show was awash with only the best models. Karlie Kloss, Karmen Pedaru, Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid and Hanne Gaby Odiele all took their turn on the catwalk probing what a huge name at NYFW Michael Kors has proved to be. This was a very autumnal collection with all the right beige and camel shades with plenty of fur. Grey was also a key colour, with the everyday working woman being a centre point of this show. From the trench coats to the smart suits, the floor skimming evening gowns to the natural, dewy make up of the models; this collection oozed American style.

Oscar de la Renta
This show should have been tinged with sadness at the passing of such an amazing designer as de la Renta was, but instead the clothes brought back so many beautiful memories celebrating his incredible fashion life by new designer Peter Copping. From the floral embroidered dresses to the slender coats in dark navy, this was grown up and elegant. The taffeta ball gowns at the end, reminiscent of Christian Lacroix, were bright and bold as were the striped suit ensembles. Necklines were high and unrevealing yet skirts showed off plenty of leg below the knee, resulting in a feminine silhouette which captured the essence of Oscar.

 

Rodarte

In recent years, Kate and Laura Mullevy of Rodarte have never seized to inspire. And yet again with their fall 2016 collection, there were plenty of amazing pieces. I loved the fur parka coats styled with simple silk tops and skinny leather trousers while the cut-out mini skirts added a touch of biker chic. If anything, some shapes were quite similar to Parisian heavy weight Balmain, but the colours and style were overall sci-fi and beautiful. A fab collection and the styling was spot on.

 

 

 

Badgley Mischka

With a hint of 60's va va voom and a touch of Bardot (hair wise) this collection was fun yet elegant. From the metallic mermaid gowns to the tweed A-line suits and the a-symmetric dresses, these clothes were defiantly red carpet ready. Some colours were sumptuous such as the rich golds and reds while others were sheer and delicate with appliques patterns sewn neatly onto shoulders and arms. I really enjoyed looking through the looks of this show and loved the closing dresses.

 

 

Donna Karan

Is there anything this lady can't do? Even though there was a lot of black throughout this collection, nothing could distract the fashion press from the gorgeous khaki coats and elegant belted trousers. Everything came with a belt in this show, nipping in the waist to accentuate the big shoulders and tiny frames of the models. It was slick and powerful, especially the brown fur bomber jacket and the over sized coat which opened the show. If only I was rich...

 

 

 

Who's feeling Michael Kors fall 2013/14?

Over the past fashion seasons, Michael Kors has stood out of the New York pack of designers. His sporty, feminine, sexy and overall just clean cut clothes are certainly a highlight of New York fashion week, and his fall 2013 collection was no different. I would categorise Kors as a strong designer. He has an image, something every design house should possess. His women are confident, smart and extremely stylish with an air of New York swagger. He continually delivers exciting shows. Who knew for his spring 2014 collection he'd go all girly on us? He's different - mixing youthful minimalism with print, sparkle and intricate tailoring, suiting his fashion conscious customer perfectly. And of course, his bags are drop dead gorgeous!

Anyway, for this season Kors was feeling athletic, bright and bold, sending out a stream of elegant models in highly energetic pieces. First of all, almost every model wore big, round sunglasses which looked part Russian spy/ part snowboarder. Nevertheless, they looked cool! Karmen Pedaru opened the show with a hunky male companion. And then came the coats.... Cobalt blue, yellow, black tailored in a very musculine silhouette. The 'man coat' as I like to call it, took centre stage at the Kors catwalk in an array of sizes and textures. Jackets too looked very futuristic in bold primary colours with padded shoulders. Cara Delevingne's blue jacket with black, zip detailing was a favourite of mine which she wore with black knee length trousers.

Skirts were also big news in this collection. Mini, knee high and floaty: we had skirts in every shape and colour. The dresses which closed the show were absolutely divine too. Black with a flash of colour, these dresses flounced out dramatically at the waist and floated beautifully behind the models as they strutted their stuff. A little flamenco and a little Spanish, these were sporty dresses with a feminine and dramatic twist. Karlie Kloss closed the show in a sparkly number, silver and black, with a Dior look about it. It was classic Kors style, simple yet effective and very Michelle Williams at the Oscars.

Overall, a wonderful show, full of style, sophistication and bold colours. If you buy anything this season make sure that it's a coat, according to Michael Kors - a big one, with a masculine influence to be exact. And be bright this winter. Don't be afraid to wear a bold red jacket on a cold, rainy Monday. Just go for it, as there are no rules in fashion...