PFW HIGHLIGHTS: Chloe, Balmain, Loewe and Lanvin

BALMAIN

Kim Kardashian tried desperately to shift attention to herself, perched on the Balmain front row in a very revealing black lace dress. But Olivier Rousteing outshone Kim and sister Kourtney, also present on the f-row, with another stunning collection. From the burnt orange shades which opened the show, to the stripy metallics, cut out dresses and sweeping silhouettes of the long capes, this spring/summer 2017 show was very stylish, strong and drop dead gorgeous. And what a cast was assembled. Natasha Poly opened the show, followed by Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Constance Jablonski, Isabelli Fontana, Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio and Josephine Skriver. When you've got that many supermodels on the runway, its hard to look away.

CHLOE

This show didn't particularly inspire or excite me. Feminine, sweet and fresh, Clare Waight Keller delivered a very saccharine outlook for Chloe next season. From the ruffled mini dresses in layers of chiffon to the minimal navy and whites, paired together on dresses, trousers and tops, this collection was simple yet effective. I liked the use of stripes and the florals at the end of the show as well as the thick straps on dresses and tops. A different look for next season from the Bardot neckline which ruled this last summer.

ISABEL MARANT

Classic with a sporty twist is how I would describe Isabel Marant's lastest collection. Gigi Hadid opened the show in a belted dress which resembled a longer version of a hoody, while belts really did reign supreme here. I loved the utility look with the oversized denim and the Victorian ruffles - two things which shouldn't go together but did. I did spot some similarities to Celine's spring/summer 2016 collection, such as the use of zippers and balloon sleeves tops. But I'm sure this is more coincidence than direct copying.

LOEWE

JW Anderson continues to rule the roost at Loewe. I'm not really a fan of his own label what he does for Loewe is so cool, modern and unique. I loved the Victorian influences, the orange stripes on trousers and sleeves, the all black Matrix kind of looks and the oversized jewellery. Also, those bags were pretty amazing too as was the orange/brown colour pallet.

 
CARVEN

What drew me to Carven this Paris Fashion Week was the sporty influences that ran throughout the collection. I loved the mini skirts which looked more like kilts, paired with knitted jumpers reminiscent of the awful tops golfers wear - but in a good way. Black and navy stood out against oranges and reds while white was used a breath of fresh air.

LANVIN

I was a little apprehensive before the Lanvin show this week. First of all, Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands since I was about 14, mainly due to the designs of the now legendary Alber Elbaz. Every season I waited with baited breath for what beautiful creations he would send down the catwalk, and was rarely disappointed. Secondly, with Bouchra Jarrar now in creative control, I wanted her to do a good job for the sake of the fashion house. And I can happily report that she did.

Monochrome looks were effortless, sheer skirts and draped tops looked amazing together, ostrich feathers worn around necklines added a touch of glamour while the influence of the classic men's dinner suit was adapted in grace and ease. I loved the slickness of the whole show. The quality, as you would expect of Lanvin, was amazing and the style of clothes did very much remind me of all Elbaz did for the house. A wonderful show with so many lovely pieces to wear in the evening.

SAINT LAURENT

Anthony Vacarello and Hedi Slimane are very similar I've decided. This Saint Laurent show could have easily been designed by Slimane, now departed from the house, such were the rock star influences and LA grunge style. But Vacarello looked into the Yves Saint Laurent archives and pulled upon pieces from the 1980s synonymous with the fashion house. The big shoulder pads, a-symmetric dresses, skinny black suits and of course, the leather jacket thrown casually over the shoulders. It was sexy with lots of sheer lace details on dresses with lots of legs on display too, but also very glamorous. The black stilettos with the letters YSL embedded into the heel were particularly cool. I think Vacarello is a good fit for Saint Laurent. Let's hope he doesn't make the same mistakes Slimane made and mixes things up for next season.

Dior, Lanvin, Mugler, Elie Saab and more at PFW 2016

Elie Saab
You don't get more beautiful dresses than at Elie Saab. This luxury brand are known for their simply sublime dresses, which never look amiss at the Oscars or Grammys. For fall, they went a little rock and roll, presenting a collection packed full of cool black leather jackets, polka dot skirts, 70s silk blouses and lace paneled dresses. Kendall Jenner looked amazing in a pink tie-dye dress while Magdalena Frackowiak stole the show in a red boho silk gown, with extra long sleeves and bare shoulders. I loved the smoky eye make up, adding to the glamorous rock theme as well as the roll call of fabulous dresses, I would literally do anything to wear. Even the black lace mini dresses were amazing, paired with floppy hats straight from the 1970s and chic knee high boots. A really great show.

Nina Ricci
Peter Copping's departure from Nina Ricci marked a turning point for the brand. Gone was all the glorious femininity which Copping carried over to his new home at Oscar de la Renta, and in came more raw pieces, but still refined enough to live up to the Nina Ricci name. Today, the autumn/winter 2016 collection was elegant and slightly dark, with lots of 90s slip dresses, layering of large coats, leather and satin skirts and even a grey buttoned cape. The models looked simple with hair swept back and minimal make up, letting the clothes do all the talking. I loved the midi skirts which fell to just above the ankle and the pointy high heels.

Mugler
I have always loved Thierry Mugler for their sexy midi dresses, form fitting skirts and amazing tailoring. For Fall 2016, Mugler delivered an amazing show, consisting of lots of leather, bright bursts of lemon yellow and of course, a few black dresses. Shiny leather trousers were paired with boots and stylish blouses, boxy jackets were worn with cigarette pants while textures were used such as crocodile and leopard on mini skirts and the lapels of coats. The dresses towards the end of the show were the most sculptural, cut away at the waist, with deep v necks or thigh high splits. You've definitely got to be a size 8 or smaller to wear these Mugler dresses well, as they clung to every lump and bump. But when you're Joan Smalls (who closed the show in a floor length dress) I guess these things don't matter!

Yohji Yamamoto
I'm not really a Yohji fan, but this fall 2016 collection was striking and very edgy. From the severe black lipstick and the very monochrome ensembles, this was classic Yohji in every possible way. Long lean silk trousers were worn with long cardigans or sleeveless waistcoats, buttoned silk shirts were cut short with material purposefully turned inside out while the chunky biker boots only added to hard-core, Avant Garde look. Minimalism at its finest.

Christian Dior
The sad thing about Dior at the moment is that it has kind of lost its way a little bit. Raf has gone, there's no new creative director, the design team have had to take over and it's all a bit of a shambles really. Todays Dior collection was nice, carrying on from where Raf Simmons left off in October. It was slick in its use of cold colours against black and white, while the simplicity of the clothes kept the new minimal Dior look alive. It was a surprise to see Kendall Jenner walking for such a prestigious name as Dior, yet what she wore on the catwalk was stylish with a fur lapelled black dress. Unfortunately this show will not count for much, it's painful to say, as it will be forgotten in Dior's history. I loved the round sunglasses and pointed brogues though, very cool.

Lanvin
I have to say the same thing about Lanvin as I did with Dior. Lanvin, a brand which flourished under the guidance of Alber Elbaz for 14 amazing years, has sadly been tossed to the side as we wait for a new creative director to be announced. LVMH have given no hint whatsoever when that will be, and judging by this collection they need to find someone new...fast! There was nothing wrong with their fall 2016 show, it just lacked the precision and razor sharp tailoring we have become used to under Elbaz. The a-symmetric dresses were in there, pretty lace tops with black trousers, silk pastel coloured skirts and fur stoles, but it wasn't exciting or dramatic. Even the venue was different. Since I was 13 Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands and I really want them to be incredible once again. Bring back Alber!

Isabel Marant
For chic Parisian style, look no further than Isabel Marant. This lady has led the way for years when it comes to the cool, effortless attitude French women carry so well, and for fall 2016 she delivered another collection packed full of winter basics. From the belted black coats and cosy beige knits, to the preppy curled hair and zebra print leggings, each piece would fit perfectly in with anyone's wardrobe. Anna Ewers closed the show in a barely there LBD complete with ruffles and ruching on the side, but all the looks really were just as cool.  

Loewe
What J.W Anderson is doing at Loewe is just really incredible. This young British designer has turned a rather old fashioned fashion house into one of the most influential brands in the world, with collections which keep pushing the boundaries season after season. This season he sent cat mask necklaces down the catwalk in all different colours (I want one!) layered over tan leather jackets, black corset dresses, graphic t-shirts and even tweed two pieces. Styles were loose, with coats dropping to well below the knee and cinched in at the waist. Very cool and very modern.

#PFW: Dior, Isabel Marant, Balenciaga and Loewe

Dior
I was scrolling through the #Dior feed on Twitter today, as I eagerly awaited the Christian Dior show but did not have much luck in finding any of the looks beforehand. But even before the show had begun I was already in love with this collection. Just from the opulent staging, which was a giant flower dome in the Louvre to the arrival of pop superstar and Dior brand ambassador Rihanna wearing a baby pink coat, the vibes coming from Dior were definitely strong.

And then of course, finally came the actual ready-to-wear collection, which I later viewed on Vogue Runway. Swish black and white looks sashayed down the catwalk, with attention payed to the immaculate tailoring, double breasted blazers and effortless white crop top and skirt combos. The boxy shapes of the sporty jumpers was a nod to the more youthful fans as were the knitwear at the end of the collection while the stripy coats and dresses were bang on trend with the rest of PFW so far.

With Raf Simmons there is always a sense of delicate femininity and beauty about the clothes, and some of these looks today were some of the best he has ever produced for the brand. The sheer dresses in neutral pinks, baby blues and white were stunning layered over lace shorts and tiny tops, the sleek long jackets and midi dresses looked like an instant red carpet favourite and the pointed block heeled shoes added a touch of Parisian chic. All the models wore chunky chokers around their necks, with some carrying the classic Dior handbags in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Raf is a master tailor and this again was a huge part of the collection. Every piece was clean cut, precise, luxurious and so Dior in its aesthetic showing that Raf has really come into his own now, after his first couple of seasons finding his feet at such an iconic fashion brand. This collection was something to be proud of in its simplicity, beauty and majesty and I feel, is one of the best Dior shows under Raf to date. Well worth scrolling through Twitter for!

Balenciaga
And that's all folks. Alexander Wang has presented his last collection for Balenciaga and its off to find a new creative director for the brand (my money is on an unknown rising star). But what an amazing way to go out with a bang. This was such a intricate, delicate, beautiful collection which was all completely in simple, virginal white. From the first look to the last, models who included Edie Campbell and Suki Waterhouse, wore clinical white, which was either draped, twisted, pressed or ruffled to perfection.

 The lovely opening dress, which looked slightly like nightwear, was reminiscent of a pair of heavenly angel wings while the maxi dresses, slouchy trousers, bold necklaces and layers of sheer chiffon were sublime and romantic. Even the models, who wore minimal make up and had their hair tied loosely back looked as though they were sailing effortlessly down the runway, all wearing delicate slippers. Alex Wang wasn't a ground breaker at Balenciaga, nor was he boring or a terrible choice for the luxury fashion house. And this collection proved how talented a designer he is. One of my favourite shows of PFW so far.

Isabel Marant
Classic Marant. That's all I have to say really of Isabel's spring/summer 2016 collection which was ethnic, cultural, defining and so effortlessly stylish that I wish I could literally afford to be a head to toe Marant girl. It was summery, with lace up sandals, harem pants and tiny shorts, but also chic with the laid back use of layering, draping of the fabric, burgundy paisley prints and monochrome colour base. I loved the yellow dungarees, the pinstripe trousers and classic white shirt while the casual, blow-dried hair models captured the Marant spirit perfectly. A lovely collection, and so super stylish.

Loewe
There were lots of interesting things going on in this particular Loewe collection. From the skirts which looked like giant cling film wrapped around models legs and the over sized shirts and trousers, to the crazy purple/yellow combo and a sense of logo mania with 'Loewe' adorned on tops and dresses. There was definitely a lot to take in and admire, as this on the whole was not a bad collection be it all the weird things going on, but one I rather enjoyed. It was stylish in a way in which you wouldn't wear a full head to toe look, but rather bits and pieces like a bomber jacket or a beige leather dress. I liked the bird print on some of the jackets which looked quite cool and admire the overall sleekness of this show from up and coming designer Jonathan Anderson, who is British let me point out...

The Isabel Marant Touch

Yes, we're slowly (and rather unfortunately) moving into September, and then consequently autumn. Soon it will be time to put away those pretty summer dresses and gladiator sandals and pull on a pair of warm boots and a scarf. If like me, you hate the cold and absolutely dread the transition period of summer into winter, then this time is not particularly inspiring. But this year, something feels strangely inviting about dusting off your lovely coat and putting on a nice cashmere jumper. I actually want to wear warmer clothes - for once! And with the weather not seeming to get any better, you can be certain that autumn is literally almost upon us.

Parisian designer, Isabel Marant's Fall 2015 collection was everything an Autumn/Winter show should be. Marant has long been a favourite designer of mine, with her easy, relaxed French aesthetic and beautifully crafted clothes. For next season she gave us a show packed full of wearable pieces for autumn. With supermodels such as Anja Rubik and Natasha Poly stalking the runway, this was a classic Marant show. There were plenty of quintessential French pieces such as the stripy nautical top and buttons sewn into trousers and on shoulders but overall this collection had nods to the seventies and boho chic. I loved the white long sleeved jumper with the cute undone clasping at the front whereas the multicoloured prints on tops and trousers with youthful  and cool.

As for the trousers, they were super high waisted! Everyone knows that any form of high waist jeans are flattering and make your legs look more slender and refined than say a pair of low slung jean. Isabel channelled this into her show, with trousers rising up to models' midriffs. Even backstage, Marant was rocking a pair of these trousers herself, stating, 'I'm not 20 and I don't have a butt like those girls do...' but who cares when you can look that good in them! A big part of Marant's shows are always the cuddly, comfy knitwear. The oversized Aztec print cardigan Natasha Poly wore looked amazing and would certainly work not only for this season but for many more to come too. There were plenty of embroidered wool jumpers with prominent shoulders paired with severe mini skirts, a little Balmain-esque. Cardigans were also a treat coming in longer lines but still with that special Marant touch.

The overall silhouette of the clothes was extremely feminine but fierce. Waists were cinched in and highlighted with pretty pleated skirts and super tight jeans, along with a variety of belts. Some such as skinny leather black belts were used for more practical reasons while others were so big and bulky they suited a kimono rather than a mini dress! But still, the proportions were just right. Some collars were high such as the dress worn by Anja Rubik while others didn't have any collars at all and just sat comfortably on the shoulder blade. As always, there was plenty of legs on display. Marant designs for young women who aren't afraid to bare some flesh in the colder months, for fashions sake that is. Most hemlines were short or discreetly covered with military inspired loose coats with plenty of silver buttons. Boots looked incredible too, some rising to the knee and others just above, while most black boots sat snugly on the mid calf. That's how you wear a winter boot.

A big part of any collection is the colour palette and Marant chose wisely for hers. The colours were beautiful and so soft. Think creamy beiges, pristine white, speckled blue and thin red lines adorned on jumpers and skirts. It was neutral and simple, but in a very French way. There were frilly dresses that looked more Victoriana than boho, but then you also had lovely three quarter length jumpers and embellished tops which gave the whole concept a little more oomph. If anything this was such a fun collection but with so much style. I have to credit whoever puts together these catwalk looks as every model looked fabulous and could have easily gone home dressed in their runway outfit. I have so much respect for Marant and the label which you cant help but fall in love with. In fact, she has made me eager for Autumn to come! Now, where did I put my boots...