PFW: Chanel Haute Couture 2017

In the Grand Palais Karl Lagerfeld delivered his latest Haute Couture collection for Chanel. Following on from Maria Grazia Chiuri's spectacular Dior couture show yesterday along with the evening masquerade ball hosted by Dior, Chanel had a lot to live up to.

Lagerfeld opened the show with a handful of pretty tweed suits, a tribute to the current Jackie movie perhaps, which came belted at the waist. Chanel and tweed are synonymous with each other but there was something about these suits which just felt fresh and new. I loved the cute neckties and boater hats which were paired with them. But it was the stand out pieces at the end of the collection which were really beautiful. I'm not usually a fan of Chanel's version of red carpet dressing, but so many of these dresses would fit right in at the Oscars next month.They were beautiful and the craftsmanship was second to none. Sequined empire line dresses decked with feathers at the hem and on the arms, deep v-cut gowns with material tiered around the skirts, le pouf skirts with glittery Mary Janes...everything just looked so stunning paired together.

The waist was really highlighted with belts drawing in draped fabric in soft pleats while the baby pink, lime green and silver tones all worked together seamlessly. All the models, which included Arizona Muse and Bella Hadid looked simply divine with their hair carefully swept to the side and pinned back from the face, which had minimal make up too. Lagerfeld's message was simple - this show was all about the clothes. As the last looks came out onto the tiled runway, Lily Rose Depp stepped out in a giant pink, frilled gown which was slightly shorter at the front and trailed across the floor at the back. If there was one look that summed up the show, it was that one. As Lagerfeld came out to take his bow, Lily Rose by his side, the Grand Palais erupted into jubilant applause. In my opinion, this was one of Lagerfeld's best couture collection ever.

Paris Couture Week: Valentino, Elie Saab, Chanel and more

VALENTINO

Missed any of the couture shows from Paris fashion week? Take a look at some of my highlights from the best shows over the past couple of days. From Valentino's medieval heroines, Chanel's master craftsmanship and Armani eternal elegance to the very cute mini me's seen at Elie Saab; there were so many great moments with plenty of beautiful dresses on show. Enjoy...

ARMANI PRIVE

ZUHAIR MURAD

ELIE SAAB

 CHANEL

Paris Haute Couture Week 2016

 VERSACE

I loved this Atelier Versace show. For once it wasn't all high voltage glamour and sex appeal (okay, it was still very Versace) but it wasn't as...trashy. The use of draped duchess satin and pastel colours was elegant and refined while the smokey eye make up and suble tan made the clothes look even more dramatic. I loved the sweeping ivory trouser suit worn by Kasia Struss, which leads me onto the models. The roll call of models was pretty impressive, as it always is with Versace. Sasha Pivovarova, Taylor Hill, Anna Ewers, Joan Smalls, Karmen Pedaru, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk and stalked down the runway, with Karen Elson opening and Carmen Kass closing.

All the pleating at the end reminiscent of Issey Miyake's famed techniques were a breath of fresh air in shiny metallics and soft purples. I also loved all mini dresses with beautiful boat neck tops showing off the neck and collar bone. I have to say, this is probably the most ladylike I've seen Donatella Versace. Oh yeah, and Naomi Campbell, Jennifer Garner, Bradley Cooper and Vera Wang were all front row.

CHRISTIAN DIOR 

Considering Dior, are currently without a designer this collection was a worthy show full of gorgeous, sumptuous Dior pieces. All the black and white was so beautiful, especially the third look which was a lovely ruffled peplum top and trousers. Bella Hadid made her second appearance at Couture Week, as the current face of the Dior cosmetics brand. The subtle references to the bar jacket and classic new look shape were in the there, as well as decadent monochrome paisley patterns.Models walked with hair scraped back with just the right amount of dark glamour and embellishments on tops and skirts. The strapless black silk dress worn by Mica Arganaraz was a favourite of mine, but then every piece was delectable.

Paris Couture Week: Valentino and Zuhair Murad

A Midsummer Night's Dream at Valentino 
I always have great expectations when watching a Valentino show, especially when it's a couture show. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are masters at their craft and this 66 piece Valentino collection was absolutely divine.

It felt as though we were watching an act from A Midsummer Night's Dream, with dresses embroidered with floral designs, layers of sweeping silk draped upon the body and a sense of the Orient with decadent dragon patterns adorned onto column dresses. Everywhere you looked there was a sense of beautiful radiance, from the catwalk which was covered in tiny gold pieces of tissue to the models who walked barefoot with elegant snake headpieces in their hair. Rich golds, forest greens and the classic black and white were used to full effect, with amazing beige transparent fabrics used on the stunning gowns at the end of the show.

Angels and heavenly aura always spring to mind when watching Valentino. I loved the bright patterned long jackets which were layered over full gowns, as well as that amazing gold mesh creation and the heavy necklaces which wrapped around the middle of the dress like a medieval belt. Mariano Fortuny was the clear inspiration behind this collection, and this art like motif was reflected in the show, with Roman and Grecian influences shining through. Truly stunning.

A Haute Fairytale at Zuhair Murad
Zuahir Murad is one of those go to red carpet designers that will never let you down. Maybe thats why he's a firm favourite by the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Cheryl Cole and Emma Stone. His haute couture collection yesterday was nothing short of amazing, with such exquisite jewel colours, full long dresses and even an incredible encrusted playsuit with large shoulder pads - that was one of the favourite looks.

Focusing on pastel colours such as soft baby blues, light pinks, acidic yellows and olive greens this show was feminine and light, but with plenty of glamour too. The show opened with a number of radiant white looks, with lots of see-through lace panelling on crinolined skirts and even a white pair of cigarette trousers, which was a nice change from all the dresses we're used to seeing. The waist was continually highlighted with a very womanly silhouette, using thin belts to cinch in the prominent feature. But above all, I loved the way the collection flowed running through like a kaleidoscope of colour. So rich and powerful, but also soft and very beautiful.

There was a nature theme, similar to Valentno with leaves and flowers entwined onto cage skirts. Pieces came shorter at the front and longer at the back showing off the leg, large duchess satin dresses felt from the hips cascading across the floor, while the wide wedding dress at the end of the collection was a perfect finale piece. I would definitely expect to see a number of these stunning pieces appearing on the Oscars red carpet next month, and will be pretty surprised if they fail to do so.

Paris Couture Week Highlights

Elie Saab
Where do I begin with this show? Everything about it was just so perfect, magical and amazing. Paying homage to India, this show featured heavily embellished draped scarves across the body and dresses, silk veils and plenty of asymmetrical layering. There was also a modern Victoriana twist, with classic period costumes given a 21st century make over, just take a look at what Mica Arganaraz was wearing.  All the models looked like princesses with silver a headpiece on their head, wearing such beautiful creations each.

As for the final bridal dress, it was Indian inspired and divine. Based on a traditional sari, silk was tucked into a slim belt and then fell down covering the floor. The train was long and full of layered silks to fill it out more everywhere you looked it sparkled in the catwalk lights. Who knows how much this dress would cost, but I can assure you for one lucky woman it will be worth it.

Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld, who I still can't believe is 82, is always a big talking point of any Paris couture week. This season he went all eco friendly with his wooden set, promising to recycle the whole thing and invited a very green Gwyneth Paltrow to his show. Before the show even started, Cara Delevingne caused a stir when she brought her dog Leo along with her, who sat very well behaved next to her and a rather bemused Carine Roitfeld. And then once the show started, all anyone could talk about afterwards was the Kendall/Gigi/Bella trio who appeared in the show. Now I'm all for them modelling for Chanel, but really there are more important things to talk about such as the clothes, not a bunch of reality tv stars.

It was a classic Chanel couture collection. The tweed suit played a huge part in varying lengths and colours as did the famous bouclè suit, made iconic by Coco Chanel. Gold was used to maximum effect with flecking on skirts and jackets and accessories to, while large shoulders and slim fitting 1920s silhouettes gave the whole thing an elegant, refined finish. Shoes with wooden soles were the only Eco link to the set, as the rest of the collection was a mix of evening wear and very luxurious day wear. I could sense a certain Abu Dhabi feel to the clothes, as the richness and simple colours used were very 'Sheikh.' Capes were casually thrown over bare shoulders, bum bags baring the Chanel logo were placed centre stage and large square pockets were adorned onto long cardigans and jackets. My favourite piece had to be the slim fitting white dress with a high peplum and gold fastenings. You can't help but appreciate the beauty that goes into a Chanel collection. Magnificent.

Armani Privè
Giorgio Armani always sticks to the same colour scheme... and it works. Soft lilacs, deep velvets, midnight blues and silver metallics were used throughout this elegant collection much like many of his others, which was an absolute delight to watch. Models strolled down the runway, complete with softly waved hair a la Veronica Lake, and purple ankle boots. It was all very dreamy, and many of the dresses were clear contenders to make an appearance at this years Academy Awards such was the beauty and layers of sumptuous fabric. Silk Trousers came with pleats along the outside of the leg, ruffles were used to full effect adorned on dresses while transparent materials were casually strewn across beaded tops.

Ralph & Russo
Wow! That was the only word I could utter after seeing the finale of the Ralph and Russo show. Isabelli Fontana majestically swept down the catwalk wearing one of the most embellished and breath taking wedding dresses I've ever seen, with floor length sleeves and a huge train. It was simply stunning and well worth the applause that erupted at the end of the show.
The rest of the collection was very R&R, with a strong emphasis on form fitting shapes and eccentrically feminine pieces. I loved the monochrome floral cocktail dresses as well as the pretty purple pieces, similar to the soft colours used by Armani in his couture show. This design duo know how to do couture like no other, and this confident, spell binding collection was incredibly beautiful. Probably my favourite show so far of Paris Fashion Week - I want every piece.

Giambattista Valli
Usually this designer is one of my favourites of couture week. But even though there was no mistaking the beauty of these clothes, they just didn't have the same pizzazz and wow effect that Giambattista Valli usually has on me. Nevertheless, the embellished mini dresses were intricate and clearly made with such close attention to detail. Ruffles appeared on pinafore dressed, with embroidered flowers while the more dramatic looks in black were very grown up. As always at the end of a Valli show, all the huge ball gowns descended onto the runway in bright popping colours. It made an impact but it wasn't amazing, and I expect amazing when watching a designer with so much history and depth to its fashion house. It was still a wonderful collection, which will make Valli clients very happy.

Atelier Versace
Kicking off proceedings on Sunday evening was a touch of Italian style with atelier Versace. Donatella certainly called in some big names to walk in her show, including Gigi Hadid, Irina Shayk, Natasha Poly, Lara Stone and Rosie Huntington Whiteley. As for the clothes, it was all very Versace. Cut out slip dresses which fell to the ground, intricate ropes which held together barely there mini dresses and splashes of bold neon brights on white pieces. Glamour and sophistication is what Donatella does best, and this collection certainly wasn't lacking any of that. I loved the electric blue dress worn by RHW which had an extremely high split, as well as the sultry hair and make up, consisting of dark eyes and a glowing complexion. Another fantastic Versace show with enough sex appeal to last a lifetime.

Christian Dior
The big talking point had to be Dior this couture week. Who is going to take over now    Raf is gone? What would the clothes be like? What is the future of Dior? Well, we still don't know who the new creative director will be, even though Sarah Burton has been heavily tipped to take the helm, but this Dior show still had a very strong sense of Raf Simmons still present. Dropped shoulders gave way to lovely folds of fabric, luxurious layering of tops over skirts, beautiful black lace dresses with plunging v necks and lots of embellishment made this a stunning Dior collection to remember. White was a key colour throughout even though black was used for a bit of drama. I thought the whole show was beautiful and very much what we have come to expect from Dior during the Raf years. The 2 young Dior designers who put this show together should be very proud of themselves.