Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion

A few weeks ago I visited the new Balenciaga exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum, Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion. Open now until the 18th February, 2018, this exhibition explores the great Cristobal Balenciaga's early fashion career as a designer, leading into the 1950s and 60s where he established himself as one of the most respected and admired couturiers the world has ever seen. Even the formidable Christian Dior was a fan, stating, "Haute Couture is like an orchestra, for which only Balenciaga is the conductor. The rest of us are just musicians, following the directions he gives us." 

His visionary designs, all loose shapes and sculptural silhouettes, marked him out as a fashion designer well ahead of his team, in an age when women were still squeezing themselves into Dior's feminine flower dresses. This exhibition highlights Balenciaga's extraordinary talent with an array of his most famous pieces, lent my museums and clients alike. It surprised me to see so many dresses which belonged to Hollywood actress Ava Gardner, but as you learn throughout the exhibition, Gardner was a huge admirer of Balenciaga and had a wardrobe packed full of his couture designs. Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn were also fans. 

The first floor explores some of Balenciaga's most notable silhouettes from his famous couture presentations as well as sketches made by his chief illustrator (Balenciaga didn't sketch himself, but had illustrators whom he instructed to draw his designs.) You also learn how fanatical he was about sleeves, often loosing his temper if a sleeve wasn't pinned just so. The second floor in the exhibition is almost a homage to Balenciaga. Pieces by designers such as Gareth Pugh, Issey Miyake, Paco Rabanne and  Oscar de la Renta are displayed, showing how much Cristobal Balenciaga influenced their designs. There's also a nice film of Molly Goddard and Gareth Pugh talking about how they're constantly looking at the great couturier's work as a form of inspiration and guidance, highlighting just how important Balenciaga was a fashion designer. His impact upon fashion today is still remarkable with current creative director of Balenciaga, Gvasalia Demna constantly referencing his archived work in his current collections. 

I strongly recommend taking a trip to the V&A to see this one. It's worth it. And I liked how you also got to try on a replica skirt from one of Balenciaga's old couture collections. The V&A always curate wonderful exhibitions and Shaping Fashion doesn't disappoint. 

Haute couture is like an orchestra, for which only Balenciaga is the conductor. The rest of us are just musicians, following the directions he gives us
Read more at: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/c/christiand636665.html

Haute couture is like an orchestra, for which only Balenciaga is the conductor. The rest of us are just musicians, following the directions he gives us.
Read more at: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/c/christiand636665.html

Haute couture is like an orchestra, for which only Balenciaga is the conductor. The rest of us are just musicians, following the directions he gives us.
Read more at: https://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/c/christiand636665.html

Balenciaga, Celine, Valentino and more at PFW SS2017

CELINE

Bearing in mind that I once worked for Celine, I know the excellent quality and level of craftsmanship that goes into their pieces. This particular Celine collection wasn't really a favourite of mine, but the details and fabrics chosen by Phoebe Philo are really first class. from the warm wool coats to the chiffon pleat skirts, there was a real mix for next season. Blue was a key colour of choice, with a number of luxurious jumpers and trousers, but I also spotted tweeds, pristine whites and even hot pink.

BALENCIAGA 

Kim Kardashian goes make up free on the Balenciaga front row

VALENTINO

Seeing as Maria Grazia Chiuri has now left Valentino for Dior, Pier Paulo Piccocli has been left to his own devices at the helm of the Italian fashion house. The shapes, long and lean, colours, soft pinks and monochrome and overall feel of the show were all very Valentino in every possible way. I loved all the little cross body bags that models wore, which were literally so tiny you would struggle to fit your keys in there.

NINA RICCI

MUGLER

With a steller cast of models which included Karlie Kloss in a floor length black dress and a very sexy collection, this Mugler show was everything and more.

Paris Fashion Week Highlights Fall 2016/17

Celine
With all the rumors circulating about Phoebe Philo's resignation in the last couple of months, this Celine collection was enough to firmly put a stop to any more Celine gossip. It was classic Celine, with loose over-sized shirts with starched collars, neutral tones layered over each other, strappy sandals with a black band across the toe (Philo's predicting a warm winter!) and lots of flared trousers in white, apple green and camel.A strong collection from an experienced designer, which makes a change at this PFW which has been a marry go round of change.

John Galliano
Black, navy and white were the key colours of choice this afternoon at John Galliano. There was also a military theme subtly running through the collection with double breasted jackets, long khaki coats and buttoned shirts. I loved the black neckties attached to white silk shirts and the dramatic black tulle dress which featured in the middle of the show. Slouchy knitted tops were paired with pleated with midi skirts while the 90s slip dress made an appearance at the end of the show. This was military chic with a touch of Parisian flare. Tres bien!

Balenciaga
Since Alexander Wang left Balenciaga last year we have been left in eager anticipation to see in which direction Balenciaga takes its house in next.  For fall 2016 the feeling was definitely sporty with a number of loose silhouettes, over-sized puffer jackets, neon brights and slouchy jackets taking centre stage.  As we have seen so far in PFW, next season is heralding the return of the midi skirt which Balenciaga featured in their show today in a variety of colours including burgundy, grey and black.  I have to admit I was not impressed with this collection.  From the first look I knew it would not be to the Balenciaga customers previous tastes. It was interesting to see the house look back at its heritage with a number of boxy grey check jackets and fitted 50's skirts opening the show, yet many of these pieces had no fit and made the size zero models look over-weight. We'll see how this collection sells when it hits the shops next season.

Balenciaga's Eternal Beauty

I look back at the Balenciaga spring/summer 2016 show with bitter sweet memories. First of all it was Alexander Wang's last collection for the fashion house. I was never a fan of Wang's appointment as creative director of the brand, but his final collection was nothing less than incredible. It was ironic that he kept his best show till last, not purposefully of course, but because this thing always happens with fashion. He took a risk, and it paid off excellently, allowing Wang to leave on a high.

It was angelic. Every piece crisp white, with sumptuous silk layering, delicate frills, ruffles and intricate lace paneling. In many ways, it was similar to the way in which Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy works, with the underwear theme running through the collection and the romanticism of the clothes, but this was Wang at his finest. The clothes told a story, with their effortless beauty and simple aestheticism, with models striding down the catwalk with their hair gently tied back, make up fresh and natural. It was truly a show of natural beauty, and now the ad campaign photos have been released featuring the 2015 Model of the Year, Anna Ewers and Zoe Kravitz, who both walked in the show. Whether posing poolside or lying on the marble floor of a stately home, the clothes and magic of Balenciaga shine through thanks to photographer Steven Klein and his remarkable camera lens.

Compared to last season, when Lara Stone and Kate Moss modeled for the brands autumn/winter 2015 collection, this current campaign is extremely light. Moss and Stone were photographed with graphically dark make up with an industrial setting surrounding them, while for spring the tables have turned considerably. I love this collection as well as these stunning photographs.

Take a look below at Klein's wonderful photography or watch the show at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ew9-CcRy1A

#PFW: Dior, Isabel Marant, Balenciaga and Loewe

Dior
I was scrolling through the #Dior feed on Twitter today, as I eagerly awaited the Christian Dior show but did not have much luck in finding any of the looks beforehand. But even before the show had begun I was already in love with this collection. Just from the opulent staging, which was a giant flower dome in the Louvre to the arrival of pop superstar and Dior brand ambassador Rihanna wearing a baby pink coat, the vibes coming from Dior were definitely strong.

And then of course, finally came the actual ready-to-wear collection, which I later viewed on Vogue Runway. Swish black and white looks sashayed down the catwalk, with attention payed to the immaculate tailoring, double breasted blazers and effortless white crop top and skirt combos. The boxy shapes of the sporty jumpers was a nod to the more youthful fans as were the knitwear at the end of the collection while the stripy coats and dresses were bang on trend with the rest of PFW so far.

With Raf Simmons there is always a sense of delicate femininity and beauty about the clothes, and some of these looks today were some of the best he has ever produced for the brand. The sheer dresses in neutral pinks, baby blues and white were stunning layered over lace shorts and tiny tops, the sleek long jackets and midi dresses looked like an instant red carpet favourite and the pointed block heeled shoes added a touch of Parisian chic. All the models wore chunky chokers around their necks, with some carrying the classic Dior handbags in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Raf is a master tailor and this again was a huge part of the collection. Every piece was clean cut, precise, luxurious and so Dior in its aesthetic showing that Raf has really come into his own now, after his first couple of seasons finding his feet at such an iconic fashion brand. This collection was something to be proud of in its simplicity, beauty and majesty and I feel, is one of the best Dior shows under Raf to date. Well worth scrolling through Twitter for!

Balenciaga
And that's all folks. Alexander Wang has presented his last collection for Balenciaga and its off to find a new creative director for the brand (my money is on an unknown rising star). But what an amazing way to go out with a bang. This was such a intricate, delicate, beautiful collection which was all completely in simple, virginal white. From the first look to the last, models who included Edie Campbell and Suki Waterhouse, wore clinical white, which was either draped, twisted, pressed or ruffled to perfection.

 The lovely opening dress, which looked slightly like nightwear, was reminiscent of a pair of heavenly angel wings while the maxi dresses, slouchy trousers, bold necklaces and layers of sheer chiffon were sublime and romantic. Even the models, who wore minimal make up and had their hair tied loosely back looked as though they were sailing effortlessly down the runway, all wearing delicate slippers. Alex Wang wasn't a ground breaker at Balenciaga, nor was he boring or a terrible choice for the luxury fashion house. And this collection proved how talented a designer he is. One of my favourite shows of PFW so far.

Isabel Marant
Classic Marant. That's all I have to say really of Isabel's spring/summer 2016 collection which was ethnic, cultural, defining and so effortlessly stylish that I wish I could literally afford to be a head to toe Marant girl. It was summery, with lace up sandals, harem pants and tiny shorts, but also chic with the laid back use of layering, draping of the fabric, burgundy paisley prints and monochrome colour base. I loved the yellow dungarees, the pinstripe trousers and classic white shirt while the casual, blow-dried hair models captured the Marant spirit perfectly. A lovely collection, and so super stylish.

Loewe
There were lots of interesting things going on in this particular Loewe collection. From the skirts which looked like giant cling film wrapped around models legs and the over sized shirts and trousers, to the crazy purple/yellow combo and a sense of logo mania with 'Loewe' adorned on tops and dresses. There was definitely a lot to take in and admire, as this on the whole was not a bad collection be it all the weird things going on, but one I rather enjoyed. It was stylish in a way in which you wouldn't wear a full head to toe look, but rather bits and pieces like a bomber jacket or a beige leather dress. I liked the bird print on some of the jackets which looked quite cool and admire the overall sleekness of this show from up and coming designer Jonathan Anderson, who is British let me point out...

Alexander Wang leaves Balenciaga

Yesterday it was revealed that American designer Alexander Wang would step down as creative director of famed fashion house, Balenciaga. After almost 3 years, it seems that Wang is struggling to cope with the demands of his own fashion brand and that of Balenciaga, and now wants to focus his attention back onto his self titled line.

Honestly, I didn't see this arrangement working out from the beginning. First of all, Alex Wang is young, very young in fashion terms to head up a major fashion house. He is the cool kid from New York, who likes his sports wear and relaxed way of dressing with fans including Rihanna, Kendall Jenner and Katy Perry. If anything, his brand is on the rise, after the H&M collaboration last year and the success of trendy diffusion line T by Alexander Wang, it's fair to say that Wang is a man on a fashion mission and is setting the ground work for what will be one day, be a huge luxury goods empire. So for him to take the reigns of Balenciaga is like putting together chalk and cheese.

Balenciaga is one of the oldest fashion houses which shows at Paris Fashion Week. It has a clientele which consists of older, more refined ladies who wouldn't be caught dead in Wang's sports wear. Cate Blanchett, Diane Kruger and Kristen Stewart (who is the face of their Florabotanica fragrance) are just some of the women who wear Balenciaga on the red carpet. Plus, Nicholas Ghesquiere was at the fashion house for 15 years - which is a very long time in fashion for a creative director to head a brand. For any designer to follow on from his success would be a tricky task, which is why Kering should have chosen someone with a little more experience for Balenciaga, compared to Wang.

So I guess what I'm trying to say is that this move is for the best. Wang's collections for Balenciaga have been good, but not amazing. There have been a few collections I have really liked, especially the fall 2015 show staged in March this year. There is no doubt that he is a very talented designer. He has definitely embraced the DNA of the brand, but used his own style to modernise it considerably. Who will now replace him? Who knows, but there is talk that Kering will choose someone who has worked their way up at Balenciaga. Someone who understands the aesthetic of the brand and knows the ins and outs of ready-to-wear. Similar to how Kering appointed Alessandro Michelle at Gucci a couple of months ago. In the meantime, we just wait and see. But a fond farewell goes out to Alexander Wang.

#PFW - Best in Show

Givenchy 

You can always rely on Ricardo Tisci to put on a proper show. And for his fall collection for Givenchy, he did exactly that. The extravaganza was extremely dark and mysterious with a lot of black coats, tight corseted blazers and skinny trousers. Models looked ferocious with decorated faces and slicked back hair, which looked as though it took hours to apply. Yet as always, there was a sense of wonder at Givenchy - another show stopping collection. 

Chloe 

It was like stepping back into the 70's with this beautiful Chloe collection. Blouses were loose and billowing, key hole dresses were reminiscent of hippy chic all those years ago and the soft colour palette was just right with lots of pastel and white. If anything this was more of a summer collection - perhaps Chloe are expecting a warm winter... 

Celine 

Whatever creative director Phoebe Philo does the fashion press seem to bow down to. With an emphasis on over sized lines and deconstructed garments, this Celine collection was intriguing and minimal. The huge (and I mean seriously HUGE) shopper bags looked perfect for tb beach while the graphic floral prints were given an autumnal twist with dark crimson and black. Puffs jackets were cool and collected while I loved the furry ball accessories dropping onto the floor. 

Mugler
Clean lines, smart tailoring and lots of monochrome - the Thierry Mugler show was elegant and refined. The navy punches and button details nodded neatly to the nautical side of things while the cut out sweeping dresses at the end of the collection were sharp and sexy. As always with Mugler, there was an element of sci-fi about some of the skirts which looked like melted metal scraps. Very chic.

Elie Saab
I absolutely love anything this label does. The dresses are always drop dead gorgeous, the colours always romantic while the sweeping silk creations are red carpet ready. For fall, Saab presented lots of khaki and military themes with a hint of turquoise blue thrown in. Belts helped define slender waists beneath billowing yards of chiffon and the sophisticated leather gloves were very Parisian lady. Another fantastic show which didn't disappoint in beauty and elegance.

Balenciaga 
Prim and proper, structuered and easy. Alexander Wang gave us a wonderful collection for Balenciaga which had a hint of school girl preppines about it as well as practical work wear pieces. An elaborate 'B' was stitched onto boxy tops like a school emblem while stripy scarfs and grey skirts nodded to the school run. Hair was severely scraped back into a tight bun with lots of decadent earrings beautifully glistening on models ears. There's no doubt this collection will be a hit with the fashion press.

Isabel Marant
Russian supermodel Natasha Poly opened this fab Isabel Marant show wearing a cream poncho, printed with an Aztec pattern and a pair of black biker boots. Nobody does classic French fashion like Marant - the woman who brought us the heeled trainer. Aztec prints were a sure hit in this show as well as stripes, romantic white mini dresses and skinny tight, high waisted trousers. The buttons and the signature black belts were stand out pieces in this collection. 

Christian Dior
I was pleasantly surprised with this colourful, bright and inspiring Dior collection. Usually I tend not to be a fan of Raf Simmon's work, yet this show was 60's inspired with some great pieces. The fur mini dress was new and different, the animal prints were outragously bold for such a classic house as Dior and the thigh high patent leather boots were fantastically cool. There were pops of colour everywhere and plenty of lovely winter man coats to cuddle up in - if you can afford Dior! And those round mirror sunglasses were just amazing! A really great show.