#NYFW: Altuzurra, DKNY, Philip Lim and more...

 DKNY

Wow! I didn't see that coming this season for DKNY, a brand more cool sweaters and shorts than sexy and stylish. Bella Hadid opened the show in a daringly low cut dresses highlighting her amazing figure, complete with a slouchy hood, followed by a collection which was very street-wear, minimal, oversized and only for the coolest kids in town. I can imagine Kylie Jenner will be all over this show. The credit goes to Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, who since they were appointed as creative directors of DKNY a few seasons ago, struggled to find their feet. Now however, they have certainly delivered, in some style too. Electric blue, soft beige, starch whites all worked together perfectly and as for that epic finale; simply the best.

Rag and Bone

 I always tend to prefer Rag and Bone's winter collections to their summer ones, just because their coats are amazing and their fur sublime. But this spring/summer 2017 collection was pretty good. Neat and stylish with a focus on sportswear, white was a key player as were bold reds on jumpers and bomber jackets. Navy stripe suits were silky and stylish as were the flowing black pieces paired with blue ankle boots. Not one of the greatest Rag and Bone shows, but nevertheless still very wearable with plenty of desirable pieces. 

Oscar de la Renta

I was surprised at the simplicity and overall elegance of this collection. From the floor length white dresses which opened the collection to the beautiful Arabian like patterns on crop tops and skirts, this show by Peter Copping was one of his best so far. I loved the slouchy dresses, tied at the waist with a tasseled rope, a great beach option for summer, as well as the dramatic gowns Copping sent out towards the end of the show. The whole collection was relaxed yet refined, in a way that made it look more modern than the de la Renta of old. Perhaps the brand is finally starting to travel in a new direction...

Altuzarra

Everyone loved this show, and it's easy to see why. Joseph Altuzarra, a talented young designer who always seems to go unnoticed besides his contemporaries Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler. His spring/summer 2017 collection was bound to catch attention though, with the python print shirts, cute pink cardigans, skirts and dresses, soft floral patterns and tightly cinched in waists with chunky belts. There was a little bit of Miu Miu this season at Altuzarra, with similar coat styles, wet hair looks and styling similar to the Miu Miu fall 2016 collection. Not that Altuzarra copied Miuccia Prada! From the larger than life earrings and super tight pencil skirts and the classic ladylike shapes, the designer did what he does best (which is elegance) but with such fun colours and prints. A really great show. 

 Proenza Schouler

As we saw at Altuzarra, big, dangly earrings were a thing at Proenza Schouler. In some respects, the whole collection was big, oversized, impactful and brightly geometric with flashes of primary colours against stark whites. Billowing stripe skirts were paired with boxy sweaters, Dalmatian print platform sandals were worn against form fitting dresses, while slouchy clutch bags were carried under arms, squeezed tightly to the model. Proenza always push the boundaries with their shows. This wasn't one of my favourite collections of the designer duo but those gorgeous accessories will no doubt be a big sell out next season.

Jeremy Scott

You can always rely on Jeremy Scott to inject some fun into fashion week. Last season it was Barbie mania, this season all the models wore 60's inspired wigs in a bowl cut style. The clothes were loud and proud, some tops bearing 'New York' in graffiti writing, others with 'Jeremy.' There was leather, mini skirts, a pink glittery bodysuit, and plenty of punchy pop art references. I especially liked  a black t-shirt which had a pair of legs in fishnet tights and red stilettos printed down the front. Very weird but cool, pretty much sums Jeremy Scott up!

  

3.1 Philip Lim

From the pretty white, floral dresses which opened the show to the light blue denims and python shoes, (python is a big trend for next season btw) Philip Lim threw a little bit of everything in this season. There were tailored looks, long black jackets, trousers and bra tops, as you can always expect with Lim, but also an injection of a more refined alternative to office wear. You can wear shorts to the office if worn with a buttoned jacket, sleek sandals and your hair tied up, according to Lim. The striped white jumpsuit was a favourite piece of mine, but then I also really liked the bright yellow pieces at the end of the show - one which was more neon than yellow!

Best in Show at #NYFW

Proenza Schouler - This design duo always get it right, creating collections which are stylish, sophisticated and simple. The show, which consisted of only black and white was extremely chic, with black neck ties, flamboyant ruffles and cut away dresses baring the arms and shoulders with nautical inspired outfits. I loved the simplicity of this collection and the pared down elegance Proenza always do so well. Another one of my favourite shows from fashion week so far.

Michael Kors - Kors is always a big hit at New York and one of the city's main star attractions. However, for me this collection was not as good as previous seasons. I did like the clever dresses printed with blood red poppies and the contrast with black was effective and powerful. The slouchy, sportswear was cool and the layering was perfect for a casual spring day but there were no stand out pieces which really excited me. But Kors has his massive fan base who have no doubt fallen in love with this latest offering and will be a huge in sales come 2016.

Marchesa - Beautiful, majestic, wearable and wantable! Marchesa dresses are really the perfect item for any red carpet or evening event. Models looked slick with their hair tied back with a middle parting with pink lipstick and no jewellery. The dresses were breathtaking, covered in layers of chiffon, silk, sequins and feathers galore. The rainbow dress looked as though it leaped straight out of a contemporary Swan Lake ballet while the clear, frilled pieces were just gorgeous!

Anna Sui - So far designers at NYFW have been inspired particularly by the holiday theme, be that the Caribbean with Tommy Hilfiger or surfing the waves at Victoria Beckham. Anna Sui was no different with her Honolulu girls taking center stage in floral dresses, bright maxi dresses and colourful skirts. Flowers adorned on garlands around models' necks or embellished onto barely there slip dresses and shorts were cute and a breath of fresh air. It was fun and frivolous, the perfect holiday go-to collection.

DKNY - Since the news broke a couple of months ago that Donna Karan would be stepping down as creative director of her brand, there has been a lot of movement at DKNY, with the appointment of duo Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, previously the designers behind Public School. Focusing on three main tones, black, white and grey this collection consisted of perfect work wear pieces, from tailored pin stripe jackets to crisp trousers. Shapes were loose but stylish, with white tea dresses and elegant draping of fabrics adding to the uniform-esque feel of the show. Of course, it didn't have the same presence of Donna Karan, but this is a new era for the brand and it certainly looks promising.

Oscar de la Renta - Peter copping has worked his magic at Oscar de la Renta. The designer, previously at Louis Vuitton and Nina Ricci, is known for his eye for detail and superb colour combinations, something which he brought to the de la renta spring 2016 show today. Copping was inspired by Spanish matadors, particularly Ava Gardner's Spanish lover in the 1950's, gaining inspiration from their fiery costumes. I loved the ruffles and floral patterns, decorated on fitted dresses and ballgowns. A perfect new designer for such a much loved and respected fashion house.

A Fond Farewell to Donna Karan

When I checked my Twitter feed a couple of days ago, I did not expect to hear the surprising news that Donna Karan was stepping down as chief director of her self titled company, Donna Karan. I mean she's only 66, Karl Lagerfeld is still going and he's 81, but Karan has stated that she wants to focus more on her philanthropic duties, which of course is understandable. Yet, her presence at NYFW will be missed. Her big grin as she comes out for her bow at the end of the show and the way in which she spoke so passionately about her clothes. Then there are her incredible collections. All New York glam but with a more practical twist. It's fair to say that I'm a fan!

Donna started her fashion company way back in 1984 and was the designer of the 90's with her sexy, power dressing wardrobe. She said that a woman only needs 7 key pieces in her wardrobe in order to look good, and that was it. Think tailored jackets, pencil skirts, crisp white shirts and sexy stilettos - every working woman of the 90s was inspired by Donna Karan and like many great designers, she left her mark on the way which we dress.

In 2001, the luxury fashion group LVMH invested considerably in the company and helped it grow into the empire it is today. Perfumes, sunglasses, scarves, bags etc. the list goes on. DKNY became one of the most sought after and popular brands in the world with the likes of Rita Ora and Cara Delevingne modelling campaigns for them. And as for the perfumes, well they are like the most well known on the planet.'Be Delicious' as modeled by Lara Stone, the famous 'DKNY' perfume campaign starring Anja Rubik kissing her boyfriend on the top of a New York taxi and the fresh 'Pure DK' fragrance.

Okay, lets stop reminiscing about the good old times, but Donna Karan really was a visionary and so respected by many. Her most recent collections have certainly got my seal of approval with all the majestic, khaki colours and amazingly flattering silhouettes. Everything was always so natural and clean, the clothes especially the dresses were stunning and very womanly and as for the accessories; they were so beautiful. All the top models walked for her and all the most glam celebrities were perched on the front row. what i find surprising about Karan's exit, is that no new creative director has yet been named and the brand will not show at NYFW in September. Let just hope they don't discontinue the company...

The designer said in a statement: "Donna Karan New York is a part of me, past, present and future," she said in the statement. "It has been an honour to speak woman to woman about seven easy pieces that forever changed the way women dress...I have arrived at a point in my life where I need to spend more time to pursue my Urban Zen commitment to its fullest potential."

Let's take a look back at some of Karan's most iconic moments!

#NYFW - Alex Wang, Altuzarra, DKNY and more...

Alexander Wang

For next season, Alex Wang is most defiantly feeling punk. From the studded boots to the long black coats, 'de-con re-con' was a strong theme throughout. The models' hair was wet and sticky while make up was dark and mysterious. Very grungy and rebellious. And those dominatrix transparent dresses at the end of the show were a sexy nod to the new Fifty Shades of Grey movie which hit cinemas last Friday. As always, there was a strong nod to sportswear and a more oversized silhouette, but that is what makes Wang stand out from the crowd; he is a visionary.

Altuzarra

Fur, fur, fur...and more fur! This collection was a homage to the great English hunting days of old, with fox fur stoles, camel man coats and tweed jackets taking centre stage. The colours were classically autumnal with some very beautiful lace dresses standing out as a great option for evenings. I love Joseph Altuzarra and this show was spectacularly crisp, clean and elegant with some amazing clothes for the fall.

DKNY

There were bright pops of colour, strong lines and a fun motif running throughout. It's fair to say the younger, cooler label to Donna Karen has a trendy outlook for next season. I loved the simple shapes and those roll neck jumpers looked so cosy warm for winter. A very sharp collection from Donna K.

Diane Von Furstenberg

I wasn't expecting a show like this one from DvF. COmpared to the cute gingham dresses and frilly skirts from last season, this collection was dark and mysterious. With Kendall Jenner opening the show wearing a white wrap dress, the clothes were beautiful with a work-wear outlook. Pinstripe suits, floral tea dresses and knitted jumpers were chic and stylish with some bright crimson reds and neon blue thrown in. Overall, another great show.

 Prabul Gurung

Again, fur was another stand out moment at NYFW but this time with a more elegant touch. Prabul Gurung sent glam fur lined coats down the runway, along with boxy shapes and simplistic pieces perfect to dress up or down. The grey looks that opened the show completely drew me in with how chic they were styled and then the colours from there were just gorgeous; off white, beige and burnt orange. Stand out piece? That amazing white fur stole layered effortlessly over a knitted jumper and mini skirt.

Rita Ora for DKNY

Rita Ora has taken over Cara Delevingne's slot as face of DKNY womenswear for spring 2014. Shot in New York amidst yellow taxis and the hustle and bustle of city life, Ora brings her cool, English swagger to the streets for Donna Karan's trendy label. My favourite piece? That shimmery, gold sequinned skirt - just right for those Christmas parties!

Here are some of the photos from the campaign....

DKNY Spring 2014 Collection

 

DKNY SPRING/SUMMER 2014 ft RITA ORA