Thursday, 7 April 2016

Iron Butterflies - Vogue Italia June 2004

I have always admired the work of Steven Meisel. From his infamous 'homeless chic' shoot for Vogue Italia to the beautiful ad campaigns for Dolce and Gabbana, there is something captivating about his photographs, with a strong message hidden somewhere in the depths of those pictures. Through his photography he is able to make a statement, a comment about the state of society or issues affecting our lives, and that to me is extremely clever and very insightful in this day and age. If anything, his work shows that fashion is not all about pretty dresses and even prettier models, but changes and reflects the times in which we live in.

I happened across this shoot while scrolling through my Tumblr timeline and was immediately transfixed by the beauty of the model posing in a form of swimwear against such a dramatic backdrop. A large oil painting hangs directly behind Elise Crombez showing some sort of powerful apocalyptic disaster while the stone bench and ornate marble floor only add to the overall feeling of majesty. The rest of the shoot from Vogue Italia June 2004 is just as amazing, with the incredible Edward Enninful in charge of styling and Pat McGrath on make-up. Baring in mind this editorial piece is over 10 years old, it shows the relevance it still holds today featuring on Tumblr et all.

From the fine art backdrops, to the leopard print swimming caps and super high stiellto heels to the impressive staircases and carefully though through straight lines of the photos, this editorial flows magically and would literally look just as great without the models! Even the title 'Iron Butterflies' suggests a deeper meaning; perhaps that the models are like statuesque pieces of iron daring to be set free like a group of butterflies... completely open for interpretation.

Beautiful swimming costumes, capes, accessories and headpieces by the likes of Gianfranco Ferre, Raf Simmons, Roberto Cavalli, Dior by John Gallinao and Dolce & Gabbana all feature throughout, with Stephen Jones responsible for most of the 1920s esque swimming caps bound tightly to the models heads. My favourite photo has to be of the three girls posing on the enormous white marble staircase, with Jessica Stam holding Karen Elson in her arms or perhaps the vulnerable photo of Stam showing off the large emerald rings on her fingers while looking in the opposite direction of the camera.

If anything, this shoot is such a juxtaposition, with models in bikinis posing in such an ornate,stately building that would be more fit for a couture shoot rather than a summer swimwear piece. Yet, Meisel cleverly captures the clothes in such a special way that the mood and oppressive atmosphere is felt at once, but in a more breathtaking way. Take a look through the gorgeous photographs in all their glory below.

Magazine: Vogue Italia June 2004
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Stylist: Edward Enninful
Make Up: Pat McGrath
Hair: Jimmy Paul
Models: Jessica Stam, Karen Elson, Elise Crombez, Dovile Virsilaite

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