Elie Saab
Where do I begin with this show? Everything about it was just so
perfect, magical and amazing. Paying homage to India, this show featured
heavily embellished draped scarves across the body and dresses, silk
veils and plenty of asymmetrical layering. There was also a modern
Victoriana twist, with classic period costumes given a 21st century make
over, just take a look at what Mica Arganaraz was wearing. All the models looked
like princesses with silver a headpiece on their head, wearing such
beautiful creations each.
As for the final bridal dress, it was Indian inspired and divine. Based
on a traditional sari, silk was tucked into a slim belt and then fell
down covering the floor. The train was long and full of layered silks to
fill it out more everywhere you looked it sparkled in the catwalk
lights. Who knows how much this dress would cost, but I can assure you
for one lucky woman it will be worth it.
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld, who I still can't believe is 82, is always a big talking
point of any Paris couture week. This season he went all eco friendly
with his wooden set, promising to recycle the whole thing and invited a
very green Gwyneth Paltrow to his show. Before the show even started,
Cara Delevingne caused a stir when she brought her dog Leo along with
her, who sat very well behaved next to her and a rather bemused Carine
Roitfeld. And then once the show started, all anyone could talk about
afterwards was the Kendall/Gigi/Bella trio who appeared in the show. Now
I'm all for them modelling for Chanel, but really there are more
important things to talk about such as the clothes, not a bunch of
reality tv stars.
It was a classic Chanel couture collection. The tweed suit played a huge
part in varying lengths and colours as did the famous bouclè suit, made
iconic by Coco Chanel. Gold was used to maximum effect with flecking on
skirts and jackets and accessories to, while large shoulders and slim
fitting 1920s silhouettes gave the whole thing an elegant, refined
finish. Shoes with wooden soles were the only Eco link to the set, as
the rest of the collection was a mix of evening wear and very luxurious
day wear. I could sense a certain Abu Dhabi feel to the clothes, as the
richness and simple colours used were very 'Sheikh.' Capes were casually
thrown over bare shoulders, bum bags baring the Chanel logo were placed
centre stage and large square pockets were adorned onto long cardigans
and jackets. My favourite piece had to be the slim fitting white dress
with a high peplum and gold fastenings. You can't help but appreciate
the beauty that goes into a Chanel collection. Magnificent.
Armani Privè
Giorgio Armani always sticks to the same colour scheme... and it works. Soft lilacs, deep velvets,
midnight
blues and silver metallics were used throughout this elegant collection
much like many of his others, which was an absolute delight to watch.
Models strolled down the runway, complete with softly waved hair a la
Veronica Lake, and purple ankle boots. It was all very dreamy, and many
of the dresses were clear contenders to make an appearance at this years
Academy Awards such was the beauty and layers of sumptuous fabric. Silk
Trousers came with pleats along the outside of the leg, ruffles were
used to full effect adorned on dresses while transparent materials were
casually strewn across beaded tops.
Ralph & Russo
Wow! That was the only word I could utter after seeing the finale of the
Ralph and Russo show. Isabelli Fontana majestically swept down the
catwalk wearing one of the most embellished and breath taking wedding
dresses I've ever seen, with floor length sleeves and a huge train. It
was simply stunning and well worth the applause that erupted at the end
of the show.
The rest of the collection was very R&R, with a strong emphasis on
form fitting shapes and eccentrically feminine pieces. I loved the
monochrome floral cocktail dresses as well as the pretty purple pieces,
similar to the soft colours used by Armani in his couture show. This
design duo know how to do couture like no other, and this confident,
spell binding collection was incredibly beautiful. Probably my favourite
show so far of Paris Fashion Week - I want every piece.
Giambattista Valli
Usually this designer is one of my favourites of couture week. But even
though there was no mistaking the beauty of these clothes, they just
didn't have the same pizzazz and wow effect that Giambattista Valli
usually has on me. Nevertheless, the embellished mini dresses were
intricate and clearly made with such close attention to detail. Ruffles
appeared on pinafore dressed, with embroidered flowers while the more
dramatic looks in black were very grown up. As always at the end of a
Valli show, all the huge ball gowns descended onto the runway in bright
popping colours. It made an impact but it wasn't amazing, and I expect
amazing when watching a designer with so much history and depth to its
fashion house. It was still a wonderful collection, which will make
Valli clients very happy.
Atelier Versace
Kicking off proceedings
on Sunday
evening was a touch of Italian style with atelier Versace. Donatella
certainly called in some big names to walk in her show, including Gigi
Hadid, Irina Shayk, Natasha Poly, Lara Stone and Rosie Huntington
Whiteley. As for the clothes, it was all very Versace. Cut out slip
dresses which fell to the ground, intricate ropes which held together
barely there mini dresses and splashes of bold neon brights on white
pieces. Glamour and sophistication is what Donatella does best, and this
collection certainly wasn't lacking any of that. I loved the electric
blue dress worn by RHW which had an extremely high split, as well as the
sultry hair and make up, consisting of dark eyes and a glowing
complexion. Another fantastic Versace show with enough sex appeal to
last a lifetime.
Christian Dior
The big talking point had to be Dior this couture week. Who is going to
take over now Raf is gone? What would the clothes be like? What is
the future of Dior? Well, we still don't know who the new creative
director will be, even though Sarah Burton has been heavily tipped to
take the helm, but this Dior show still had a very strong sense of Raf
Simmons still present. Dropped shoulders gave way to lovely folds of
fabric, luxurious layering of tops over skirts, beautiful black lace
dresses with plunging v necks and lots of embellishment made this a
stunning Dior collection to remember. White was a key colour throughout
even though black was used for a bit of drama. I thought the whole show
was beautiful and very much what we have come to expect from Dior during
the Raf years. The 2 young Dior designers who put this show together
should be very proud of themselves.
Yesterday, on the 19th August, 1883, one of fashion's biggest names was born. Gabrielle Chanel, who would later go on to create a billion euro fashion empire under the name of Chanel, was born in Saumur France all those years ago, yet her legacy still lives on today. In a time when women had little to do with business, she defied all the odds and set up her own milinery shop, later expanding to women's clothes, accessories and famously perfumes. Her many love affairs, fiesty attitude, ability to predict trends and understanding of what women wanted to wear following the outbreak of two world wars have turned her into a legend, and a great role model for many women around the world. She was also very stylish, which always helps!
