Live streaming the Balmain fall 2016 show live, I knew we'd be in for a treat once the orchestra started playing. Haunting and beautiful, it was not long until Kendall Jenner opened the show with shocking blonde hair, followed by Gigi Hadid who had been dyed brunette for the occasion. In fact a lot of models in the show had their hair switched to opposite shades. Lily Donaldson looked different with brown hair, while natural brunettes Alesandra Ambrosio and Candice Swanepoel looked amazing with blonde locks. I hardly even recognised Rosie Huntington Whiteley!
The colours were pastel and pure. Baby blues and soft pinks were worn head to toe, featuring on highly embellished mini dresses, corset style tops with high necklines, knee high boots, suede high waist trousers and feathered skirts. Goodness knows how much these decadent pieces cost, but they were all very Balmain. Towards the end of the show, monochrome and touch of khaki were introduced on ruffled sheer skirts, velvet trousers and blanket coats, which were all designed with Kim Kardashian in mind, no doubt. I loved every second of this show, and herald Olivier Rousteing for once again delivering a Balmain Army of amazing pieces. My favourite look? It had to be that amazing blue jacket with fur along the arms and draped material around the neck. Simply divine.
What a beautiful show Chloe presented us with this morning at the Grand Palais. From the beige poncho which opened to the show, the colourful fringed coat paired with a classic black dress, this was Chloe through and through. I loved the use of the tan aviator jacket worn with brown leather trousers and smart neckerchiefs, as well as the long, loose skirts worn with tight roll necks. There was a 70s theme, as always with Chloe, but this season it was more subtle, focusing more on long silhouettes and a relaxed vibe. Girls walked with loose, slightly curly hair adding to the Parisian chic feel, yet all the poncho shapes nodded more towards Navajo territory rather than the city streets of Paris.
I don't usually pay much attention to Paco Rabane, even though its such a well known brand. But there was something about the fall 2016 collection which really appealed. Maybe it was the grunge aesthetic, or the combat trousers and sandals, but whatever it was it looked seriously cool. With hair pulled tightly back and clipped behind the head, models strode onto the catwalk in black boots and chunky sandals, wearing combat style gilet vests and plain tank tops with tailored trousers. There were swirls of colour on silk pyjama-style pieces, but black really was the basis of this collection, and you don't get much cooler than black.
It seems that its not only Versace and Balmain who can draw in a role call of the worlds biggest supermodels, as retail giants H&M clearly showed today. From Natasha Poly opening the show, to Amber Valletta, Jourdan Dunn, Jamie Bell, Anja Rubik, Kate Mara and Freja Behe Erichson who closed the show, this was a seriously good lineup. H&M even had 65 year old Pat Cleveland walk in the show, one of the first black supermodels. As for the collection itself, there were lots of delicate slip pieces, Pharrell style hats, long harem pants, 70s bandannas and velvet jackets. It was very bohemian, with loose shirts tucked into trousers and very long hair extensions adding to the hippie feel. It was a surprise to see Valletta striding down the runway in a striped dress and navy boots, even if she did look a little like a pirate! But overall, it was stylish and quite glamorous for H&M.
Vionnet
Vionnet is one of the oldest and most respected fashion brands. Established by Madeline Vionnet at the turn of the 20th century, this house is known for its beautiful sweeping dresses and delicate attention to detail. It has been tossed to the side by a number of years, passing from one creative director to the next, but it looks like they are finally making a well deserved come back. Goga Ashkenazi is the person to thank for this collection, which was fluid and elegant. Long, lean lines in red and khaki were given a tough twist with black leather straps on the arms and waist, while the a-symmetric designs so loved by Madeline made an appearance. Knits were paired with billowing trousers, jumpsuits looked majestic and the overall feel was extremely grand.
Dries Van Noten
This has to be one of my favourite collections ever by Dries van Noten! Leopard print - check. Fur stoles - check. Tailored blazers - check. Lovely colours- check. This show really had it all, with the strong leopard motif running casually through the collection. I loved all the sporty stripes on trousers, and on ties, which looked very much like a private school uniform. Mustard yellow was paired with navy, red satin trousers looked surprisingly good with a green fur stole while the use of white and black were added to tone down all the patterns and bold colours. Slick hair and dark make up looked just as appealing and added to the sophisticated style of the show.
Maison Martin Margiela
For those of you who read this blog regularly, you'll know that I am an avid supporter of John Galliano. I cannot begin to tell you how glad I am that he is back designing again after a few turbulent years and his shows for Margiela keep on getting better and better. Galliano chose to stay with the military theme which has featured throughout all fall 2016 fashion weeks so far, with models wearing large black belts around their waist cinching in khaki buttoned jackets and shearling coats. Tights were worn under metallic dresses, ruched black boots were shiny against models bare legs while the feminine shapes help to give the clothes more substance. A really great show, from a great man.
