#NYFW: Altuzurra, DKNY, Philip Lim and more...

 DKNY

Wow! I didn't see that coming this season for DKNY, a brand more cool sweaters and shorts than sexy and stylish. Bella Hadid opened the show in a daringly low cut dresses highlighting her amazing figure, complete with a slouchy hood, followed by a collection which was very street-wear, minimal, oversized and only for the coolest kids in town. I can imagine Kylie Jenner will be all over this show. The credit goes to Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, who since they were appointed as creative directors of DKNY a few seasons ago, struggled to find their feet. Now however, they have certainly delivered, in some style too. Electric blue, soft beige, starch whites all worked together perfectly and as for that epic finale; simply the best.

Rag and Bone

 I always tend to prefer Rag and Bone's winter collections to their summer ones, just because their coats are amazing and their fur sublime. But this spring/summer 2017 collection was pretty good. Neat and stylish with a focus on sportswear, white was a key player as were bold reds on jumpers and bomber jackets. Navy stripe suits were silky and stylish as were the flowing black pieces paired with blue ankle boots. Not one of the greatest Rag and Bone shows, but nevertheless still very wearable with plenty of desirable pieces. 

Oscar de la Renta

I was surprised at the simplicity and overall elegance of this collection. From the floor length white dresses which opened the collection to the beautiful Arabian like patterns on crop tops and skirts, this show by Peter Copping was one of his best so far. I loved the slouchy dresses, tied at the waist with a tasseled rope, a great beach option for summer, as well as the dramatic gowns Copping sent out towards the end of the show. The whole collection was relaxed yet refined, in a way that made it look more modern than the de la Renta of old. Perhaps the brand is finally starting to travel in a new direction...

Altuzarra

Everyone loved this show, and it's easy to see why. Joseph Altuzarra, a talented young designer who always seems to go unnoticed besides his contemporaries Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler. His spring/summer 2017 collection was bound to catch attention though, with the python print shirts, cute pink cardigans, skirts and dresses, soft floral patterns and tightly cinched in waists with chunky belts. There was a little bit of Miu Miu this season at Altuzarra, with similar coat styles, wet hair looks and styling similar to the Miu Miu fall 2016 collection. Not that Altuzarra copied Miuccia Prada! From the larger than life earrings and super tight pencil skirts and the classic ladylike shapes, the designer did what he does best (which is elegance) but with such fun colours and prints. A really great show. 

 Proenza Schouler

As we saw at Altuzarra, big, dangly earrings were a thing at Proenza Schouler. In some respects, the whole collection was big, oversized, impactful and brightly geometric with flashes of primary colours against stark whites. Billowing stripe skirts were paired with boxy sweaters, Dalmatian print platform sandals were worn against form fitting dresses, while slouchy clutch bags were carried under arms, squeezed tightly to the model. Proenza always push the boundaries with their shows. This wasn't one of my favourite collections of the designer duo but those gorgeous accessories will no doubt be a big sell out next season.

Jeremy Scott

You can always rely on Jeremy Scott to inject some fun into fashion week. Last season it was Barbie mania, this season all the models wore 60's inspired wigs in a bowl cut style. The clothes were loud and proud, some tops bearing 'New York' in graffiti writing, others with 'Jeremy.' There was leather, mini skirts, a pink glittery bodysuit, and plenty of punchy pop art references. I especially liked  a black t-shirt which had a pair of legs in fishnet tights and red stilettos printed down the front. Very weird but cool, pretty much sums Jeremy Scott up!

  

3.1 Philip Lim

From the pretty white, floral dresses which opened the show to the light blue denims and python shoes, (python is a big trend for next season btw) Philip Lim threw a little bit of everything in this season. There were tailored looks, long black jackets, trousers and bra tops, as you can always expect with Lim, but also an injection of a more refined alternative to office wear. You can wear shorts to the office if worn with a buttoned jacket, sleek sandals and your hair tied up, according to Lim. The striped white jumpsuit was a favourite piece of mine, but then I also really liked the bright yellow pieces at the end of the show - one which was more neon than yellow!

New York Fashion Week Highlights

Philip Lim
Khaki colours ruled the roost at Philip Lim, with a strong military theme running throughout the collection. Grey check suits were also included as well as a sense of geek chic with trousers pulled up high and large black shoes were clompy and unelegant - in a good way. The coats were the real key pieces, with long navy styles, shaggy fur jackets and large hooded fur parkas in that same khaki green. I loved all the autumnal hues and the relaxed feel of the collection.

Rodarte
Kate and Laura Mulleavy have built a brand evolving around Gothic beauty, think the Corpse Bride mixed with a little grunge and delicate femininity. This collection was another classic Rodarte number, packed full of floaty chiffon, lace paneling, white fur coats and plenty of warrior spirit. Believe me, you wouldn't want to mess with the Rodarte girl this season. She was a little Navajo and a little Victoriana mixed in together, with dark lips and free flowing hair. Watch out!

Jeremy Scott
As always with Mr Scott, this was a collection packed full of fun! And an ode to the swinging 60s. From the latex mini skirts, colourful knee high boots and big Brigitte Bardot hair to the fishnet tights and musical references, it was psychedelic and extremely cool. Karlie Kloss opened the show with a smile, rocking a blue outfit with abstract guitar strings along the middle, and was accompanied by a number of crazy looks which included look-a-like Roy Lichtenstein prints and pink Dalmatian coats. It's always nice to mix things up at NYFW, and who doesn't like a bit of fun every now and then.

Vera Wang
I don't usually pay much attention to Vera Wang, but this show really caught my eye. From the opening black dress as worn by Mica Arganaraz to the combustion of khaki outfits that followed this was a show which was simple yet fierce. Black suits came loose but stylish, long maxi skirts with thigh high splits added a touch of sex appeal while the gold metallic detailing was a nice bit of detail. The bottle green jacket worn with black army boots was a real highlight as were the black straps tied around pieces of material on the hip.

Diane von Furstenberg
It was real party which lasted almost an hour at Diane von Furstenberg on Monday. Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Irina Shayk, Lily Aldridge and Karlie Kloss all posed for pictures before the show, in bright 70s outfits with plenty of boho chic. Kloss rocked the runway and closed the show in a floor length gold metallic dress, Kendall looked amazing in a slim fitting jumpsuit while the use of prints, patterns and layering looked every inch the DvF lady. Not to mention her classic wrap dresses which made an appearance. As always, DvF brought the party to New York in some style.

Carolina Herrera
I hadn't really thought much of Carolina Herrera, but after last season and again this season, her clothes are truly breathtaking and beautiful. I loved her floor sweeping dresses, the tailored white trousers paired with fur coats, the soft pastel colours in mint green and pink as well as texture play of materials. Karlie again made 2 appearances, opening and closing the show wearing stunning deep purple halter neck dress. Feminine, pretty and mesmerizing, this was a truly fantastic show.

Tommy Hilfiger
With almost 60 looks, this was a sow packed full of easy to wear, relaxed garments. Baby doll dresses came in white and beige falling just above the knee, navy was used on slim coats and navy-esque trousers and the classic aviator jacket popped up again (it has been a key piece so far this fashion week.) I espeically loved the pretty peter pan collars and the satin crop top which was worn with a jeweled pair of knicker boxer pants. Even the t-bar heels were paired with delicate frilled socks, adding to the gentle feel of the whole collection.