CHRISTOPHER KANE
ERDEM
TEMPERLEY
ANTONIO BERARDI
Showing posts with label London fashion week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label London fashion week. Show all posts
Thursday, 22 September 2016
Sunday, 18 September 2016
London Fashion Week: Best in Show
From Mulberry, Preen and Topshop Unique to Simone Rocha and Mary Katrantzou, see all the best shows from day 3 of London Fashion Week below...
Mary Katrantzou
Peter Pilotto
Mulberry
Topshop Unique
Simone Rocha
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Versus Versace
JW Anderson
Julien Macdonald
Tuesday, 23 February 2016
Christopher Kane, Erdem and Burberry at LFW
It was a real sense of Granny chic at Christopher Kane, just look at those headscarves! There were a lot of florals in artistic, abstract prints on dresses, vertical stripes on maxi dresses, beige hues and of course, classic black. What is ground breaking about Kane is that every season he delivers a completely different look, yet it is still recognizable as Christopher Kane. I loved this collection, especially that khaki long coat.
From September this year, Burberry will only show their catwalk collections when the clothes hit stores, a big shake up to the system. They are such a huge draw at LFW and I can't imagine Burberry not appearing on the schedule. Yet this show by Christopher Bailey was rich, modern and cool with its check coats, blingy mini dresses and opulent colours, such as green, yellow and purple. Metallic shift dresses were simple but printed with glowing snakeskin, parka coats were given a fresh update with large fur lapels, patterned black tights were paired with chunky biker boots and that amazing shaggy green coat looked incredible cinched in at the waist.
The aviator jacket, which was a key piece in New York, was adapted by Bailey with a new over-sized look, a little different from 2010 when he last featured the classic jacket in his Burberry collection. Burberry would not be Burberry without at least one trench coat, but this season it was very difficult to spot just one! They were there, but in very loose, straight cut styles which looked and felt more like a smart winter coat rather than a classic trench. Nevertheless, this collection will feature in all the fashion magazines next season, as part of the best picks of LFW. We expect nothing less from Burberry.
So beautiful and refined, this Erdem collection was grown up elegance at its best. Black lace, floral prints, Victorian bows, and large collars all added to the very English feel, while the lovely dresses at the end of the collection were delicate and feminine. All the shapes were very womanly and quite long, which looked amazing on the models, while hair was clipped back with tiny little clips. A really great show, which I thoroughly enjoyed.
Usually Peter Pilotto go all out for prints, in a simalr way that mary Katrantzou does. Yet for fall 2016, prints were toned down and rather simplistic in soft pastel colours or on graphic black. Instead they focused on prim, proper suits, cute tea dresses and pure elegance.
So much colour, so many sumptuous jewel tones and lots of lovely fur (not sure if its real or faux.) This Roksanda collection was frilly with plenty of abundant ruffles, delicate with sweeping midi skirts and structured with form fitting coats. Everything was splashed with colour in some way or another, and there were the classic geometric Roksanda prints that we have come to love thrown in too.
I chose to feature Antonio Berradi because this collection was just so sophisticated and elegant. The monochrome use of black and white added glamour as did the timeless jumpsuits, classic trench coats in white and black leather as well as the lace detailing. Models looked smart with slicked back hair and a pop of red lipstick while the ankle boots seemed to match every outfit perfectly.
Sunday, 21 February 2016
A Head Full of Dreams at Alexander McQueen
Last
season Sarah Burton took my breath away with her Alexander McQueen collection.
From the beautiful embroidery, Indian influences, sweeping chiffons and deeply
romantic undertones it was a show which perfectly captured the essence of
McQueen and was a stand out moment from all the fashion weeks put together. Today, its safe to say she created that magic once again. Staged in the majestic Lawrence Hall, this show had no gimmicks, no celebrity filled front row, no exotic set design; instead it focused just on the beautiful clothes (something I think LFW has come to forget in recent years) with a collection which was moving and simply wonderful.
From the first look, a black oversized coat embroidered with a pocket watch a large butterfly, we knew we were in for a treat. Black ensembles featuring surreal red lips, silver scissors and graphic chains stood out against the porcelain skin of the models while the tailored black suits which followed were similar in cut to last season (that Indian style of drapery) but were refined in their slim cut and updated with silver straps around the thigh. It was all very effortless and indeed, a rare sight to behold after the somewhat amateur designers we’ve seen today at LFW. A house like McQueen which has so much design history and rich inspiration is in another league compared to the young, up and coming designers who practically run London Fashion Week. Yet, it was nice that Sarah Burton chose to show in London rather than Paris, as it means we didn’t have to wait as long to see it.
Models looked as though they had just jumped out of the pages of Alice in Wonderland, with dishevelled hair clipped back with silver jewellery headpieces and softly smoky eye make-up, adding to the fairy tale feel of the show. It was as though time had stopped and a sense of ethereal beauty had captivated our imaginations instead. There was a real mix of masculinity with soft feminine pieces, with the hard black leather toned down with pretty pink butterfly motifs and fierce corsets worn with dainty tea dresses. Victoriana frills were featured on barely there silk slip dresses, cherry blossom hues were alternated on fur stoles while the structured jackets were a stand out feature in starch white and deepest black, with satin lapels of course.
The romance of last season were carried over by Burton with her sweeping silk gowns cascading down the catwalk, with little mini dresses given the royal ballet treatment with tutu skirts and black leotards underneath. I loved the ostrich feathered skirts paired with tough biker jackets and combat style trousers, playing with that mix of beauty and powerful masculinity. But it was the final looks which were the most stunning and stole the show in my opinion.
Sheer silk practically covered in pearls and precious jewels fell to the floor, worn with equally as embellished capes and I even spotted an appliqued unicorn here and there on sumptuous bodices. This was seriously couture level work, from the fur lined jackets to the neutral, beige gowns. The most talked about look? A coral duvet style jacket wrapped carefully around a nude slip, with the astounding attention to detail of embroidery simply amazing. The final look had so many tiny white butterflies covering the skirt, it looked as though they were actually real, and ready to take flight at any second. Sarah Burton really should be proud of such an incredible collection - I know Lee Alexander McQueen would be.
Models looked as though they had just jumped out of the pages of Alice in Wonderland, with dishevelled hair clipped back with silver jewellery headpieces and softly smoky eye make-up, adding to the fairy tale feel of the show. It was as though time had stopped and a sense of ethereal beauty had captivated our imaginations instead. There was a real mix of masculinity with soft feminine pieces, with the hard black leather toned down with pretty pink butterfly motifs and fierce corsets worn with dainty tea dresses. Victoriana frills were featured on barely there silk slip dresses, cherry blossom hues were alternated on fur stoles while the structured jackets were a stand out feature in starch white and deepest black, with satin lapels of course.
The romance of last season were carried over by Burton with her sweeping silk gowns cascading down the catwalk, with little mini dresses given the royal ballet treatment with tutu skirts and black leotards underneath. I loved the ostrich feathered skirts paired with tough biker jackets and combat style trousers, playing with that mix of beauty and powerful masculinity. But it was the final looks which were the most stunning and stole the show in my opinion.
Sheer silk practically covered in pearls and precious jewels fell to the floor, worn with equally as embellished capes and I even spotted an appliqued unicorn here and there on sumptuous bodices. This was seriously couture level work, from the fur lined jackets to the neutral, beige gowns. The most talked about look? A coral duvet style jacket wrapped carefully around a nude slip, with the astounding attention to detail of embroidery simply amazing. The final look had so many tiny white butterflies covering the skirt, it looked as though they were actually real, and ready to take flight at any second. Sarah Burton really should be proud of such an incredible collection - I know Lee Alexander McQueen would be.
LFW: including Gareth Pugh, Mary Katrantzou and Mulberry
Well, Mulberry had definetly had a change of direction. Since Emma Hill left the brand, it took a while for them to find their feet again, even skipping a number of LFW's. Now, they have come back with a bang! This collection was refined and very wearable, with lots of military navy pieces, sweeping capes, sharp khaki trousers paired with white shirts and an emphasis on tailored suiting. There were even some tropical colours added into the mix, with Hawaiian coloured prints, a bright yellow slip dress and an orange midi dress. But overall, I was seriously impressed with the professionalism of these pieces and the direction Mulberry has now been steered in by Johnny Coca, formally of Celine fame. I predict great things again from this onve invincible fashion house.
This has to be my favourite ever collection of Gareth Pugh's. It was absolutely fantastic, so powerful and bold with strong references to 1940s suiting, grey flannel shirt dresses and the colours of the American flag. Let's just say it was extremely American and very glamorous. Cheryl Cole looked great (and healthy) sitting front row in a grey mini dress while model Natasha Poly looked ravishing wearing a bright orange gown.
As for the collection, models looked slightly Hannibal Lector-fied wearing tan masks across their mouths and prosthetic cheekbones while some wore amazing circle hats placed at the back of their heads reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty's crown. Everything was tight fitting and so stylish, with leather gloves, fur stoles, round sunglasses and brilliant cobalt mini dresses draped around the body. Right from the first look of a loser beige trouser suit, I knew this was going to be a good show, and I wasn't disappointed. Seriously wow!!
Mary Katrantzou
When reading Vogue.co.uk's catwalk report of this show, Emily Sheffield said that this particular Mary Katrantzou collection was very similar to Prada's current resort pieces. And I have to admit, she's right. This was all very Prada-fied, with gingham dresses, straight cut coats, bold geometric patterns and preppy headscarves. Yet, I really enjoyed it. Mary Katrantzou was and still is the queen of digital prints, yet this show featured pattern but in a very neutral way, focusing more on the cut of the material. I liked the silk polka dot shirts, straight midi skirts and use of primary colours, as well as the overall feel of the collection.
David Koma
Minimal and stylish, this David Komo fall 2016 show was left untouched and bare - in a good way. From the sleek grey pieces which opened the show, tied neatly at the waist with a thick band, to the sexy white cut out dresses which would look perfect on the red carpet, there was something for everyone in this show. Some of the black dresses did look very Versus Versace with the large jewels embellished on them, but there were all extremely cove-table paired with navy knitwear and boots. There was a quick injection of colour in the form of cobalt blue and burgundy, but really this show was all about the simplicity of tonal hues.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
When reading Vogue.co.uk's catwalk report of this show, Emily Sheffield said that this particular Mary Katrantzou collection was very similar to Prada's current resort pieces. And I have to admit, she's right. This was all very Prada-fied, with gingham dresses, straight cut coats, bold geometric patterns and preppy headscarves. Yet, I really enjoyed it. Mary Katrantzou was and still is the queen of digital prints, yet this show featured pattern but in a very neutral way, focusing more on the cut of the material. I liked the silk polka dot shirts, straight midi skirts and use of primary colours, as well as the overall feel of the collection.
Topshop Unique
From the khaki parka jackets to the silk leopard print tops, the monochrome check trousers and the short fur coats, this show was classic Topshop Unique; super cool and easy. I loved the styling of this show, especially the use of black and white towards the end of the show. It was all very stylish and sleek, with lovely aviator jackets, leather skirts, brown fur collars and ankle boots. Personally, I would wear every piece in this collection and know that it will be an instant sell out once it's available to buy. I'll be first in line.David Koma
Minimal and stylish, this David Komo fall 2016 show was left untouched and bare - in a good way. From the sleek grey pieces which opened the show, tied neatly at the waist with a thick band, to the sexy white cut out dresses which would look perfect on the red carpet, there was something for everyone in this show. Some of the black dresses did look very Versus Versace with the large jewels embellished on them, but there were all extremely cove-table paired with navy knitwear and boots. There was a quick injection of colour in the form of cobalt blue and burgundy, but really this show was all about the simplicity of tonal hues.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Dark florals, powder pink coats, sequinned dresses and sheer black lingerie-esque pieces; there was a right old mix match of themes in Preens latest collection. But overall it was dark, slightly ominous and a little grungy. I loved the glittered pink dress towards the end of the show, only because preen aren't known for their use of such sickly sweet colours. But there were classic check patterns thrown in, grey jersey tops paired with sweeping floral skirts, large coats and frilled black and white trousers which looked rather cool when the models walked down the catwalk. Not the best Preen collection I've seen, but it was still pretty good.
Simone Rocha
I do like some of Simone rochas pieces, but I wouldn't say I was an outright fan. She seems to do the same thing almost every season, with collections which basically mirror her everyday wardrobe. However I did like the baby pink pastel hues in her fall 2016 show as well as the gothic Victoriana theme. Fabrics were loose and billowing, make up was severe and there was an element of grunge with the wet hair, chunky layers and dark black tones.
We all need a bit of Henry Holland in our lives. He really does bring the fun to LFW the same way in which Jeremy Scott does at New York. For Autumn/winter 2016, there was a little bit of everything we've come to expect from Holland. Leopard print mini dresses, glittery tights, loud fur coats, denim pieces paired with graphic t-shirts and lots of bright colours which really shouldn't ever be put together. I thought it was all very Kate Moss circa the 2000s mixed with the high octave glam of the 1980s. Really fun, outgoing and a great collection.
Julian Macdonald
While I was watching this show, I couldn't help but realise how Italian the collection was in terms of style. There were so many sexy black cut out dresses a la Versace, amazing fringed pieces similar to Roberto Cavalli and sweeping red carpet gowns dripping in jewels, just like Giambattista Valli. Macdonald really should consider showing in Milan next season.
Apart from these minor similarities, this was a classic Julian Macdonald show with all the sex appeal and womanly shapes we know and love him for. The finale look was sweet with a model walking the catwalk holding the hands of a little boy and girl in cute mini-me outfits yet the dresses at the end of the show were anything but sweet, more sultry in nudes and beiges. This was a collection divided between menswear and womenswear with a lot of male models showing off Macdonalds men's pieces. A new line to look forward to in the future maybe...
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