Last
season Sarah Burton took my breath away with her Alexander McQueen collection.
From the beautiful embroidery, Indian influences, sweeping chiffons and deeply
romantic undertones it was a show which perfectly captured the essence of
McQueen and was a stand out moment from all the fashion weeks put together. Today, its safe to say she created that magic once again. Staged in the majestic Lawrence Hall, this show had no gimmicks, no celebrity filled front row, no exotic set design; instead it focused just on the beautiful clothes (something I think LFW has come to forget in recent years) with a collection which was moving and simply wonderful.
From the first look, a black oversized coat embroidered with a pocket watch a large butterfly, we knew we were in for a treat. Black ensembles featuring surreal red lips, silver scissors and graphic chains stood out against the porcelain skin of the models while the tailored black suits which followed were similar in cut to last season (that Indian style of drapery) but were refined in their slim cut and updated with silver straps around the thigh. It was all very effortless and indeed, a rare sight to behold after the somewhat amateur designers we’ve seen today at LFW. A house like McQueen which has so much design history and rich inspiration is in another league compared to the young, up and coming designers who practically run London Fashion Week. Yet, it was nice that Sarah Burton chose to show in London rather than Paris, as it means we didn’t have to wait as long to see it.
Models looked as though they had just jumped out of the pages of Alice in Wonderland, with dishevelled hair clipped back with silver jewellery headpieces and softly smoky eye make-up, adding to the fairy tale feel of the show. It was as though time had stopped and a sense of ethereal beauty had captivated our imaginations instead. There was a real mix of masculinity with soft feminine pieces, with the hard black leather toned down with pretty pink butterfly motifs and fierce corsets worn with dainty tea dresses. Victoriana frills were featured on barely there silk slip dresses, cherry blossom hues were alternated on fur stoles while the structured jackets were a stand out feature in starch white and deepest black, with satin lapels of course.
The romance of last season were carried over by Burton with her sweeping silk gowns cascading down the catwalk, with little mini dresses given the royal ballet treatment with tutu skirts and black leotards underneath. I loved the ostrich feathered skirts paired with tough biker jackets and combat style trousers, playing with that mix of beauty and powerful masculinity. But it was the final looks which were the most stunning and stole the show in my opinion.
Sheer silk practically covered in pearls and precious jewels fell to the floor, worn with equally as embellished capes and I even spotted an appliqued unicorn here and there on sumptuous bodices. This was seriously couture level work, from the fur lined jackets to the neutral, beige gowns. The most talked about look? A coral duvet style jacket wrapped carefully around a nude slip, with the astounding attention to detail of embroidery simply amazing. The final look had so many tiny white butterflies covering the skirt, it looked as though they were actually real, and ready to take flight at any second. Sarah Burton really should be proud of such an incredible collection - I know Lee Alexander McQueen would be.
Models looked as though they had just jumped out of the pages of Alice in Wonderland, with dishevelled hair clipped back with silver jewellery headpieces and softly smoky eye make-up, adding to the fairy tale feel of the show. It was as though time had stopped and a sense of ethereal beauty had captivated our imaginations instead. There was a real mix of masculinity with soft feminine pieces, with the hard black leather toned down with pretty pink butterfly motifs and fierce corsets worn with dainty tea dresses. Victoriana frills were featured on barely there silk slip dresses, cherry blossom hues were alternated on fur stoles while the structured jackets were a stand out feature in starch white and deepest black, with satin lapels of course.
The romance of last season were carried over by Burton with her sweeping silk gowns cascading down the catwalk, with little mini dresses given the royal ballet treatment with tutu skirts and black leotards underneath. I loved the ostrich feathered skirts paired with tough biker jackets and combat style trousers, playing with that mix of beauty and powerful masculinity. But it was the final looks which were the most stunning and stole the show in my opinion.
Sheer silk practically covered in pearls and precious jewels fell to the floor, worn with equally as embellished capes and I even spotted an appliqued unicorn here and there on sumptuous bodices. This was seriously couture level work, from the fur lined jackets to the neutral, beige gowns. The most talked about look? A coral duvet style jacket wrapped carefully around a nude slip, with the astounding attention to detail of embroidery simply amazing. The final look had so many tiny white butterflies covering the skirt, it looked as though they were actually real, and ready to take flight at any second. Sarah Burton really should be proud of such an incredible collection - I know Lee Alexander McQueen would be.
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