London Fashion Week: Best in Show

From Mulberry, Preen and Topshop Unique to Simone Rocha and Mary Katrantzou, see all the best shows from day 3 of London Fashion Week below...

Mary Katrantzou

Peter Pilotto

 

 Mulberry

 Topshop Unique

Simone Rocha

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Versus Versace

JW Anderson

Julien Macdonald

LFW: including Gareth Pugh, Mary Katrantzou and Mulberry

Mulberry
Well, Mulberry had definetly had a change of direction. Since Emma Hill left the brand, it took a while for them to find their feet again, even skipping a number of LFW's. Now, they have come back with a bang! This collection was refined and very wearable, with lots of military navy pieces, sweeping capes, sharp khaki trousers paired with white shirts and an emphasis on tailored suiting. There were even some tropical colours added into the mix, with Hawaiian coloured prints, a bright yellow slip dress and an orange midi dress. But overall, I was seriously impressed with the professionalism of these pieces and the direction Mulberry has now been steered in by Johnny Coca, formally of Celine fame. I predict great things again from this onve invincible fashion house.

Gareth Pugh

This has to be my favourite ever collection of Gareth Pugh's. It was absolutely fantastic, so powerful and bold with strong references to 1940s suiting, grey flannel shirt dresses and the colours of the American flag. Let's just say it was extremely American and very glamorous. Cheryl Cole looked great (and healthy) sitting front row in a grey mini dress while model Natasha Poly looked ravishing wearing a bright orange gown. 

As for the collection, models looked slightly Hannibal Lector-fied wearing tan masks across their mouths and prosthetic cheekbones while some wore amazing circle hats placed at the back of their heads reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty's crown. Everything was tight fitting and so stylish, with leather gloves, fur stoles, round sunglasses and brilliant cobalt mini dresses draped around the body. Right from the first look of a loser beige trouser suit, I knew this was going to be a good show, and I wasn't disappointed. Seriously wow!!

Mary Katrantzou
When reading Vogue.co.uk's catwalk report of this show, Emily Sheffield said that this particular Mary Katrantzou collection was very similar to Prada's current resort pieces. And I have to admit, she's right. This was all very Prada-fied, with gingham dresses, straight cut coats, bold geometric patterns and preppy headscarves. Yet, I really enjoyed it. Mary Katrantzou was and still is the queen of digital prints, yet this show featured pattern but in a very neutral way, focusing more on the cut of the material. I liked the silk polka dot shirts, straight midi skirts and use of primary colours, as well as the overall feel of the collection. 

 

Topshop Unique

From the khaki parka jackets to the silk leopard print tops, the monochrome check trousers and the short fur coats, this show was classic Topshop Unique; super cool and easy. I loved the styling of this show, especially the use of black and white towards the end of the show. It was all very stylish and sleek, with lovely aviator jackets, leather skirts, brown fur collars and ankle boots. Personally, I would wear every piece in this collection and know that it will be an instant sell out once it's available to buy. I'll be first in line.

David Koma
Minimal and stylish, this David Komo fall 2016 show was left untouched and bare - in a good way. From the sleek grey pieces which opened the show, tied neatly at the waist with a thick band, to the sexy white cut out dresses which would look perfect on the red carpet, there was something for everyone in this show. Some of the black dresses did look very Versus Versace with the large jewels embellished on them, but there were all extremely cove-table paired with navy knitwear and boots. There was a quick injection of colour in the form of cobalt blue and burgundy, but really this show was all about the simplicity of tonal hues.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Dark florals, powder pink coats, sequinned dresses and sheer black lingerie-esque pieces; there was a right old mix match of themes in Preens latest collection. But overall it was dark, slightly ominous and a little grungy. I loved the glittered pink dress towards the end of the show, only because preen aren't known for their use of such sickly sweet colours. But there were classic check patterns thrown in, grey jersey tops paired with sweeping floral skirts, large coats and frilled black and white trousers which looked rather cool when the models walked down the catwalk. Not the best Preen collection I've seen, but it was still pretty good. 

Simone Rocha

I do like some of Simone rochas pieces, but I wouldn't say I was an outright fan. She seems to do the same thing almost every season, with collections which basically mirror her everyday wardrobe. However I did like the baby pink pastel hues in her fall 2016 show as well as the gothic Victoriana theme. Fabrics were loose and billowing, make up was severe and there was an element of grunge with the wet hair, chunky layers and dark black tones. 

House of Holland 

We all need a bit of Henry Holland in our lives. He really does bring the fun to LFW the same way in which Jeremy Scott does at New York. For Autumn/winter 2016, there was a little bit of everything we've come to expect from Holland. Leopard print mini dresses, glittery tights, loud fur coats, denim pieces paired with graphic t-shirts and lots of bright colours which really shouldn't ever be put together. I thought it was all very Kate Moss circa the 2000s mixed with the high octave glam of the 1980s. Really fun, outgoing and a great collection. 

Julian Macdonald

While I was watching this show, I couldn't help but realise how Italian the collection was in terms of style. There were so many sexy black cut out dresses a la Versace, amazing fringed pieces similar to Roberto Cavalli and sweeping red carpet gowns dripping in jewels, just like Giambattista Valli. Macdonald really should consider showing in Milan next season.

Apart from these minor similarities, this was a classic Julian Macdonald show with all the sex appeal and womanly shapes we know and love him for. The finale look was sweet with a model walking the catwalk holding the hands of a little boy and girl in cute mini-me outfits yet the dresses at the end of the show were anything but sweet, more sultry in nudes and beiges. This was a collection divided between menswear and womenswear with a lot of male models showing off Macdonalds men's pieces. A new line to look forward to in the future maybe... 

LFW: Burberry, Erdem, Christopher Kane and more...

Burberry
Sienna Miller, Cara Delevingne, Kate Moss, Benedict Cumberbatch and Suki Waterhouse were just some of the big names who sat front row at the Burberry Spring/Summer 2016 show. With a 20 strong orchestra at the brands normal Kensington Gardens venue, this Burberry collection was simple and stylish. There were no bright pastel colours or broderie-anglaise as seen at previous seasons, but more easy black jackets and white summer dresses with pretty sleeves and minimal detailing. Of course, there was some classic trench coats which came with a hard edge with military styled buttons and rucksacks models wore on their backs. But overall, Christopher Bailey presented a collection which was extremely wearable and chic. Sandals and ankle cage heels were also a nice touch for summer and added to the more relaxed aesthetic of this Burberry girl.

Models looked natural with minimal make-up adding to the no fuss attitude of this collection. There were floral mini dresses, perfect for the day and a couple of dramatic black capes for a cold, spring evening. I loved the lemon coloured mini dress covered in frills worn by Binx Wilson as well as the sheer fabrics which were draped over body suits and on dresses and vest tops. Shapes were slouchy but nipped in at the waist to highlight the figures of the models, while funky leather jackets and stylish over-sized coats will serve as the perfect cover up come next year.

Personally, it wasn't as good as last year or the amazing spring 2014 collection which I still lust over, but nevertheless it was a good show for Burberry and lived up to the hype created on social media. This brand is such an iconic label for British fashion, and it's clear from the reception its received that this show will be one of highlights of London Fashion Week so far.

Christopher Kane
So much colour, so much excitment, so many ra-ra skirts... Christopher Kane collection was so enjoyable to watch and so fun too! Splashes of colours - pink, yellow, blue and black were splattered across a-symmetric dresses, loose jersey tops and cropped bomber jackets in what looked like an explosion in a paint factory. There were pieces reminiscent of his past season, where naked men and women in geometric shapes were adorned onto slip dresses but this time it was more Elmer the elephant-esque. I loved all the tassels on the skirts and jumpers while the shoes were amazing too. I didn't expect this from Kane and it was a nice surprise!

  
Alice Temperley
Usually I don't tend to pay much attention to Temperley, even though I know that it's a moved loved British brand. But this collection was so beautiful and intricately astounding that I couldn't ignore it and it is so far one of my surprise highlights of LFW. Inspired by the culturally enriching city of Havana, Alice Temperley focused on lace day dresses, panama hats, soft pastel colours and a lot of beautiful embroidery. Every dress had a different design and feel to it, covered in flowers, zig-zags, Aztec patterns and ruffles. The floor length sequined dress at the end of the show was gorgeous and the amazing knee high gladiator sandals are now high on my summer wish list. In fact if I could I would snap up this whole collection because I could literally see myself in every piece. Fantastic!

Erdem
The overall atmosphere of this collection was darkly mysterious and intriguing as well as beautiful and classic Erdem. There were plenty of digital inspired prints on tight dresses which bared the shoulders and focused on a more streamlined silhouette. The dresses moved beautifully, especially those covered in layers of feathers and chiffon while the floral designs were summery and sleek. Neckties were another key theme of this show, something we've seen previously at New York Fashion Week while the laid back glam of Erdem was a hit once again.

Mary Katrantzou
So much print - it's no wonder they call her the queen of prints! Mary Katrantzou was inspired by the stars and the solar system for her latest collection, which was light and wearable as well as detailed and full of colour. Mini dresses had a loose and fluid shape to them which were paired with sparkly tights while the graphic lines of this collection were also a standout feature.

Issa
I don't know an awful lot about Issa, but judging by this collection, its a label which celebrates the more beautiful things in life. Wrap dresses with geometric patterns looked perfect for the every day working woman while the white transparent dresses and trousers looked so effortlessly glamorous on the models. The pristine white jumpsuit worn by Lily Donaldson was my favourite look while the orange and burgundy lace up booties were a covetable item for the spring. I really enjoyed the simplicity and beauty of this show and am now a self proclaimed Issa fan.

All hail Queen Mary Katrantzou of Prints!

 

We've had Pucci in the 60's. All bright, bold and loud embedded on scarves and mini dresses. Then Missoni. Woolen knits, in all the colours of the rainbow, just right for cold, winter evenings around the fire. Etro emerged in the 90's with their Arabian paisley prints; a key part of their heritage. And now for the 21st centurary, there is a new Queen of prints, in the form of the exciting, new London based Greek born designer: Mary Katrantzou.

Since her gradutate collection for Central Saint Martins in 2008, Katrantzou has caused quite a strom surrounding London fashion, becoming a firm favourite at fashion week (even Anna Wintour's a fan.) With her colourful display of prints on every imaginable piece of clothing, she has established herself as the new Queen of the fabulous print. The extraordinary thing about Katrantzou's designs is that, her prints really shouldn't go together, yet they do so beautifully that even Anna Dello Russo and  Rihanna have turned into devout fans. Heard of her lampshade dress? A classic Mary fashion staple, this dress looks like a lampshade (the clues in the name), billowing out at the waist to create an unusual yet flattering silhutte, coveted by editors and buyers alike. Then last spring, she presented a collection of prints inspired by postal stamps found on her travels. One word: AMAZING. Who knew that wearing an Indian stamped t shirt would look so chic? Geometric patterns and shapes featured one season while for spring 2014, Katrantzou went all girly with flower prints taking centre stage.

Spring 2014 was a more relaxed, summery collection with a main motif of flowers. Her famous lampshade dress still featured but was updated with crop tops and frills around the bust area. Pastel colours and white were the base of her colour palette while fabric was left loose, billowing as the models strutted down the catwalk. All in all, prints were not as controlling. What I mean is, the clothes weren't overpowered like they usually are with crazy prints, which was a nice change and a new look for the Katrantzou customer. This was a delightful show, with many wearable pieces that, I have no doubt have gone straight on the summer shopping list of eager fashionistas, demanding a slice of Katrantzou fashion.

Mary and the rest of the London fashion crew (Kane, Saunders, Erdem etc) are doing great things for London fashion at the moment. After a long wait, London is starting to be taken seriously with new, young, creative talent erupting out of fashion universities up and down the country, firmly making their mark in womens wardrobes. Katrantzou has also managed to inherit the crown only worn by the best print designers, who have taken the use of pattern on garments to a whole new level. Fun, energetic and bright, I can only wonder what Mary Katrantzou will do next season...