Saint Laurent's New Attitude

I am currently going through a Saint Laurent phase. I wasn't a huge fan of the Parisian fashion label during Hedi Slimane's tenure, but I am a fan of Anthony Vaccarello. His first show for the brand was sexy, powerful, very 80s influenced and was the perfect day to night wardrobe for a French fashion editor living that exciting jet set lifestyle. When shopping in Zara  recently, I literally couldn't contain my excitement when I happened across a faux leather black mini dress, one arm draped in material the other bare. It was a YSL knock off and for only £10 was a complete bargain. I am absolutely sure that when I premiere it in Paris this weekend with the right accessories it could pass as Saint Laurent.

Anthony Vaccerello is a cool guy, first with the designs for his eponymous label and then for Versus Versace. His love of black, glamour and a certain rock and roll look has become part of the designer's DNA and I have no doubt YSL will continue to reign supreme over the fashion industry. "My idea of YSL lies in the attitude," the designer revealed to Vogue last year and judging by the latest Saint Laurent campaign, Vaccarello has most definitely brought the attitude. Featuring a host of models of the moment including Mica Arganaraz, Freja Beha Erichsen, Selena Forrest and Hiandra Martinez, the campaign is shot completely in monochrome and is extremely provocative. Photographer Collier Schorr shows off Vaccarello's daring designs for spring with a polka dot mini dress a particular favourite of mine.

But it was Vaccarello's first campaign for YSL which really caught my attention. Shot by Inez and Vinoodh, the campaign was a taster of what Vaccarello would bring to YSL and featured one of the coolest models ever, Anja Rubik. I loved the moodiness of the black and white photos as well as the clothes of course which reminded me of the famous 'Le Smoking' suit. Yves Saint Laurent has so much rich history with all the incredible couture shows and iconic looks and this new designer looks likely to embody that spirit into his collections for the brand. Take a look at the old and new campaign below and trust me, you too will be converted into a YSL fan just like me.

SPRING/SUMMER 2017 CAMPAIGN SHOT BY COLLIER SCHORR
 

The Spring/Summer 2017 collection.

 CAMPAIGN SHOT BY INEZ AND VINOODH FEATURING ANJA RUBIK

PFW HIGHLIGHTS: Chloe, Balmain, Loewe and Lanvin

BALMAIN

Kim Kardashian tried desperately to shift attention to herself, perched on the Balmain front row in a very revealing black lace dress. But Olivier Rousteing outshone Kim and sister Kourtney, also present on the f-row, with another stunning collection. From the burnt orange shades which opened the show, to the stripy metallics, cut out dresses and sweeping silhouettes of the long capes, this spring/summer 2017 show was very stylish, strong and drop dead gorgeous. And what a cast was assembled. Natasha Poly opened the show, followed by Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Constance Jablonski, Isabelli Fontana, Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio and Josephine Skriver. When you've got that many supermodels on the runway, its hard to look away.

CHLOE

This show didn't particularly inspire or excite me. Feminine, sweet and fresh, Clare Waight Keller delivered a very saccharine outlook for Chloe next season. From the ruffled mini dresses in layers of chiffon to the minimal navy and whites, paired together on dresses, trousers and tops, this collection was simple yet effective. I liked the use of stripes and the florals at the end of the show as well as the thick straps on dresses and tops. A different look for next season from the Bardot neckline which ruled this last summer.

ISABEL MARANT

Classic with a sporty twist is how I would describe Isabel Marant's lastest collection. Gigi Hadid opened the show in a belted dress which resembled a longer version of a hoody, while belts really did reign supreme here. I loved the utility look with the oversized denim and the Victorian ruffles - two things which shouldn't go together but did. I did spot some similarities to Celine's spring/summer 2016 collection, such as the use of zippers and balloon sleeves tops. But I'm sure this is more coincidence than direct copying.

LOEWE

JW Anderson continues to rule the roost at Loewe. I'm not really a fan of his own label what he does for Loewe is so cool, modern and unique. I loved the Victorian influences, the orange stripes on trousers and sleeves, the all black Matrix kind of looks and the oversized jewellery. Also, those bags were pretty amazing too as was the orange/brown colour pallet.

 
CARVEN

What drew me to Carven this Paris Fashion Week was the sporty influences that ran throughout the collection. I loved the mini skirts which looked more like kilts, paired with knitted jumpers reminiscent of the awful tops golfers wear - but in a good way. Black and navy stood out against oranges and reds while white was used a breath of fresh air.

LANVIN

I was a little apprehensive before the Lanvin show this week. First of all, Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands since I was about 14, mainly due to the designs of the now legendary Alber Elbaz. Every season I waited with baited breath for what beautiful creations he would send down the catwalk, and was rarely disappointed. Secondly, with Bouchra Jarrar now in creative control, I wanted her to do a good job for the sake of the fashion house. And I can happily report that she did.

Monochrome looks were effortless, sheer skirts and draped tops looked amazing together, ostrich feathers worn around necklines added a touch of glamour while the influence of the classic men's dinner suit was adapted in grace and ease. I loved the slickness of the whole show. The quality, as you would expect of Lanvin, was amazing and the style of clothes did very much remind me of all Elbaz did for the house. A wonderful show with so many lovely pieces to wear in the evening.

SAINT LAURENT

Anthony Vacarello and Hedi Slimane are very similar I've decided. This Saint Laurent show could have easily been designed by Slimane, now departed from the house, such were the rock star influences and LA grunge style. But Vacarello looked into the Yves Saint Laurent archives and pulled upon pieces from the 1980s synonymous with the fashion house. The big shoulder pads, a-symmetric dresses, skinny black suits and of course, the leather jacket thrown casually over the shoulders. It was sexy with lots of sheer lace details on dresses with lots of legs on display too, but also very glamorous. The black stilettos with the letters YSL embedded into the heel were particularly cool. I think Vacarello is a good fit for Saint Laurent. Let's hope he doesn't make the same mistakes Slimane made and mixes things up for next season.

Au revoir Hedi Slimane - The designer leaves Saint Laurent

So Hedi Slimane has left Saint Laurent. For months, speculation was rife that the former Dior menswear designer would be exiting the brand, and now it has finally been confirmed with a joint statement by Kering and Slimane. 

"What Yves Saint Laurent has achieved over the past four years represents a unique chapter in the history of the house," stated Francois Henri Pinault this morning, chairman of the Kering group. "I am very grateful to Hedi Slimane and the whole Yves Saint Laurent team, for having set the path that the house has successfully embraced, and which will grant longevity to this legendary brand."

Can I say I'm surprised? Well not really. Slimane was good for a couple of seasons and it was nice to see such a dramatic make over of such a classic brand like YSL, taking over from Stefano Pilati. But after a while it all got a little boring - (there's only so much you can take of rock chick girl season after season.) What Slimane will do next is unknown, maybe set up his own brand? But the big question is who will replace him at YSL. Anthony Vacarello is a favourite so far but in this crazy world of fashion, names will always be thrown about in anticipation of who will be the actual replacement. With Dior also recruiting for new a creative director, YSL will have to move fast to snap a worthy replacement. I think it would be great to see someone who already works at Saint Laurent to step up and take over. Someone who knows the brand and heritage well and is super passionate about all things Yves - similar to what happened at Valentino with Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paulo Piccolo, former accessories designers at the Italian fashion house. 

For now, let's take a look back at some of Slimane's best moments at Saint Laurent, with my favourite show being the fall 2013 collection. I loved the 70s fedora hats and amazing tailored skinny suits. From the messy undone hair to the super cool biker boots, this show for me really established Slimane as a respected fashion designer. I also loved his final show, which was only shown a couple of weeks ago at PFW. It was couture on another level, with the huge shoulder pads, sparkly mini dresses and eccentric make up. In hindsight this was a farewell collection, with Slimane putting on a truly amazing show to say his final goodbye - and what a way to bow out!

Givenchy, Hermes, Saint Laurent and more today at PFW

Saint Laurent

Oh what a show by Hedi Slimane. Many described this fall 2016 collection as Saint Laurent haute couture, with the bold shoulders, high level of detail and pure 80s references shining through in what was a very glamorous show. From the dramatic eye make up to the super mini skirts, OTT shoulder pads and splashes of sequins, Slimane pulled together pieces from his past Saint Laurent collections and referenced the brand circa the 1980s. This collection was immense and different, with models posing for photos on a large staircase rather than at the end of a catwalk. If this was Hedi's last offering for Saint Laurent, what a show it was.

Sonia Rykiel
There was so much in this Sonia Rykiel collection which caught my eye. I have to admit, everything was very much to my tastes and I can imagine to the tastes of numerous Sonia fans too. First of all, the fur was amazing whether it was on large collars, sleeves, pockets or even an oversized furry hat. Pretty 70s tea dresses were paired with patent leather boots, layering was used under jackets and silk shirts tied with a pussy bow at the neckline were extremely stylish. I loved the burgundy colours as well as the soft buttery yellow and snakeskin. They even had model of the moment Gigi Hadid closing the show, as well as veteran model Arizona Muse making an appearance.

Hermes
Fluid lines, the classic midi skirt, neutral tones and minimal tailoring all led the way this evening at Hermes. With such a cult following, Hermes have once again kept many of their eager clients happy, with a collection which looked and felt luxurious in every way. Camel pleat dresses opened the show along with structured white blazers and matching cigarette pants following. Burgundy, khaki and navy blue were used, but in such a subtle way that it felt effortless. I loved the shiny leather boots which came in a variety of colours as well as the high roll neck dresses which were form fitting and elegant.

Giambattista Valli
When it comes to pretty, look no further than Valli. This designer brand have girly, beautiful dresses fully covered, and their fall 2016 show was packed full of feminine, lady like creations. I loved the high neck floral chokers which gave way to flowing white silk skirts, gathered in at the waist as well as the almost knee high black strap court shoes. Ruffles and frills looked like they're here to stay another season, with Valli featuring the details on skirts and sleeves, while the wonderful red dress near the end of the show was covered in carefully cut little frills.

Givenchy
I forgot to feature Givenchy's show on yesterdays blog post, as it was Mothers Day and I was unfortunately pre-occupied with various other things. But what a show it was! With Kanye West, Kris Jenner, Bradley Cooper and Ciara all sitting front row, this show was heavily inspired by the ancient Egyptians and their rich colours. Gold art deco-esque dresses looked amazing as did all the gorgeous leopard print and fur stoles. There was pattern and print everywhere you looked, from the long coats and cropped jackets to the snakeskin boots and sweeping mini dresses. Ricardo Tisci has been at Givenchy for over 10 years now, and the shows he produces keep getting more varied and intriguing. You'll never know what he will do next, as he is a fashion deign genius and I am a huge fan.

Stella McCartney
I think its safe to say that the puffa jacket is a thing for autumn/winter 2016. We have seen a number of designers feature this functional coat during Paris Fashion Week, (check out the Balenciaga show) and now McCartney has firmly confirmed that trend by featuring a number in her collection. Whether they were cropped or long, the puffa was included in glorious shades. Other pieces included satin black trousers, lots of tie-dye denim, slouchy knitwear and sexy slip dresses, adding to the lingerie trend of this season. Not one of my favourite Stella McCartney shows, but nevertheless enjoyable.

PFW: Including Stella McCartney, Hermes, Sacai & Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent
Hedi Slimane loves his rock chick. For Saint Laurent, he left off from last season and presented us with a rock and roll girl, complete with tiger print coats, fur jackets, muddy wellington boots (Glastonbury anyone?) and lots of mini silver metallic dresses. There was a fun touch with all the models wearing little tiaras on their heads, while the slinky black dresses at the end of the collection were jaw droppingly amazing. It was nice to see some evening-wear from Slimane who tends to focus more on day outfits, and lots of barely there little dresses. A fun collection, which was also dark and sexy, with a Rolling Stones influence.

Stella McCartney
I absolutely loved this Stella McCartney show. Shown first thing yesterday morning at PFW, it kicked off the day with a bang with a youthful, yet very stylish feel. Gingham dresses in red and yellow opened the collection, which then gave way to fringed dresses which looked very futuristic and super cool. As the models walked down the runway, the small knife pleats moved beautifully and the soft pairing of colours, such as lemon yellow, navy blue and pillar box red created lovely combinations. There were also pastel coloured suits paired with amazing sunglasses, and of course, Stella's famous net, cut out dresses at the end of the show. Some came off the shoulder while others bared cheeky glimpses of flesh. An amazing show.

Hermes
With all the fun, crazy shows shown today at PFW, Hermes almost feels to be left behind with their minimal, sculptural designs. But this is a fashion house which just screams luxury, and has no problem doing what they do best without all the gimmicks that go with it. White skirts came to midi length with coloured lines along the hems, beige suits and leather dresses were effortless and beautifully tailored to perfection. There were pops of colour in bright orange and cobalt blue, but if anything this was for Hermes' minimal clients who prefer to let the clean lines and sharp cuts of the clothes do the talking. Fluid, soft and elegant.

Sonia Rykiel
I was drawn to this collection mainly because of the make up. The dark eyes, which were soaked in metallic eye shadow were mysterious, pale lips added drama and the amazing sculpted cheek bones really stood out against the hair which was pulled back away from the face with a severe middle parting. As for the clothes, Sonia went for glamour with fringed mini dresses, plunging necklines, bright, bold colours and super trendy military jackets complete with buttons and belt. The shapes of the clothes were feminine with the waist accentuated with tight maxi dresses and peplum style tops. Even the strappy sandals were glam, and the fur stoles which were carried casually by the models.

Sacai
Not only was there an amazing roll call of models, but this show was daring, stylish, maximal and full of colour. There were strong oriental themes running throughout, with kimono style prints, gold brocade, layers of silk on patterned shirts and high necklines. But it was also fun, with sheer black t-shirts, neck scarves which were wrapped loosely around the neck and colour strewn onto flowing midi skirts.

Giambattista Valli
Valli really is the go-to designer for preppy, stylish, sophisticated dressing. It is an old fashion house seeped in history, but now has a very modern core and appeals to the chic girls of Paris and beyond. For spring/summer 2016 there were a-line mini skirts, similar to those that Nicholas Ghesquiere did at Louis Vuitton last season, buttoned up white coats, jazzy bolero jackets covered in jewels and heeled gladiator sandals which came in white and black. Models walked with flowing, blow dried hair, working fun mini dresses, printed blouses and Victorian-esque necklines.