Christian Dior get in Formation for Fall 2017

I love a good ad campaign, and Christian Dior's Fall 2017/18 offering is pretty powerful one to kick off the new season. With a simple, white backdrop, and a bevvy of Maria Grazia Chiuri's favourite models (Adwoa Aboah, Fernanda Ly and Ruth Bell) this campaign screams feminism and strength. With the black panther style berets, military long navy coats and cross the body embellished bags, the Dior woman this season is fit for duty in a fashion uniform kitted out of the most luxurious fabrics and desirable accessories. Shot by Brigitte Lacombe, this campaign focuses on the tough side of fashion but as there always is with Dior, a delicate touch. I love the way denim is incorporated (a material not usually associated with the Parisian couture house) as well as the carefully placed positions of all the models. Okay ladies now lets get in formation...

And below, the finale of the AW 2017 Dior show, led by Ruth Bell:

Dior bring back the Beret for Autumn/Winter 2017

Maria Grazia Chiuri really is on a role. Three seasons in for Dior now and she shows no signs of slowing down. Today, the Christian Dior Fall 2017-18 collection was presented to a front row which included Rihanna, Kate Moss and Siena Miller to rapturous applause and praise. From the catwalk to pretty much most of the clothes, Chirui was feeling blue in most of the looks she sent down her runway. From the frayed denim pieces and the ruffled skirts, to the satin dresses and knee high suede boots - everything came in varying shades of blue. There were small injections of black and white, but for the most part indigo, cobalt and sapphire did the talking. All the models wore black berets too, a part of the stereotypical French cliche France just can't seem to shift. But these berets looked powerful, strong and militant paired with leather and fierce accessories while oversized jumpers and tulle skirts added a sweetness to proceedings. See some of the best looks below...

Rihanna on the front row in head to toe Dior.

Maria Grazia Chiuri debutes her 'New Look' for Dior

You know a show is a success when the entire front row give it a standing ovation, complete with rapturous applause. Maria Grazia Chiuri today debuted her first collection for Christian Dior after the shock departure of Raf Simmons last year. And I for one hope she remains at the house for a longer length of time than her predecessor, after the stunning collection she showed this afternoon.

With Rihanna, Kate Moss, Marion Cotillard, Jennifer Lawrence, Carla Bruni and Diane Kruger sitting on the front row, the pressure was on for Grazia Chiuri to literally 'bring it' for her first collection for Dior. She started off by sending out all white looks with a strong sense of sportswear about them. Models wore trainers with padded jackets and tailored trousers. Sheer tulle was used on floor length skirts and on frilled Victorian style tops and dresses. Little red hearts were embroidered delicately onto the chest of dresses and jackets, before black was introduced with a number of mini skirts, trench coats and shift dresses all in the same tone. Sunglasses were worn with a sense of cool, while the tightly, pulled buns models wore on their head made the clothes look even more slicker. Feminism was a clear inspiration for Chiuri, with Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s slogan, 'We should all be feminists' printed on plan white t-shirts, a similar stance Donatella Versace took at her show at Milan Fashion Week with strong women as her inspiration.

I loved the ballet references, with the net skirts, flat shoes and elegant, streamlined shapes. The dresses towards the end of the show were especially lovely, with straps bearing the Dior logo - this will be a thing for next season in all the shops, trust me. I also liked all the illustrations on the garments which was a nice touch.

If anything, this whole collection was extremely beautiful, light, fluffy and yes, very Valentino. Maria Grazia Chiuri's work at Maison Valentino was heralded as an enormous success after the designer stood down as creative director, and of course she couldn't help but bring these design staples with her to Dior. In some ways, Dior and Valentino are quite similar. They are both brands known for feminine, beautiful pieces, with a fondness for florals and anything delicately elegant. But enough of Grazia Chirui's past and more about her future at Dior. She delivered a fantastic show and I sure hope she sticks around to produce many more at Dior.

Paris Haute Couture Week 2016

 VERSACE

I loved this Atelier Versace show. For once it wasn't all high voltage glamour and sex appeal (okay, it was still very Versace) but it wasn't as...trashy. The use of draped duchess satin and pastel colours was elegant and refined while the smokey eye make up and suble tan made the clothes look even more dramatic. I loved the sweeping ivory trouser suit worn by Kasia Struss, which leads me onto the models. The roll call of models was pretty impressive, as it always is with Versace. Sasha Pivovarova, Taylor Hill, Anna Ewers, Joan Smalls, Karmen Pedaru, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk and stalked down the runway, with Karen Elson opening and Carmen Kass closing.

All the pleating at the end reminiscent of Issey Miyake's famed techniques were a breath of fresh air in shiny metallics and soft purples. I also loved all mini dresses with beautiful boat neck tops showing off the neck and collar bone. I have to say, this is probably the most ladylike I've seen Donatella Versace. Oh yeah, and Naomi Campbell, Jennifer Garner, Bradley Cooper and Vera Wang were all front row.

CHRISTIAN DIOR 

Considering Dior, are currently without a designer this collection was a worthy show full of gorgeous, sumptuous Dior pieces. All the black and white was so beautiful, especially the third look which was a lovely ruffled peplum top and trousers. Bella Hadid made her second appearance at Couture Week, as the current face of the Dior cosmetics brand. The subtle references to the bar jacket and classic new look shape were in the there, as well as decadent monochrome paisley patterns.Models walked with hair scraped back with just the right amount of dark glamour and embellishments on tops and skirts. The strapless black silk dress worn by Mica Arganaraz was a favourite of mine, but then every piece was delectable.

Dior, Lanvin, Mugler, Elie Saab and more at PFW 2016

Elie Saab
You don't get more beautiful dresses than at Elie Saab. This luxury brand are known for their simply sublime dresses, which never look amiss at the Oscars or Grammys. For fall, they went a little rock and roll, presenting a collection packed full of cool black leather jackets, polka dot skirts, 70s silk blouses and lace paneled dresses. Kendall Jenner looked amazing in a pink tie-dye dress while Magdalena Frackowiak stole the show in a red boho silk gown, with extra long sleeves and bare shoulders. I loved the smoky eye make up, adding to the glamorous rock theme as well as the roll call of fabulous dresses, I would literally do anything to wear. Even the black lace mini dresses were amazing, paired with floppy hats straight from the 1970s and chic knee high boots. A really great show.

Nina Ricci
Peter Copping's departure from Nina Ricci marked a turning point for the brand. Gone was all the glorious femininity which Copping carried over to his new home at Oscar de la Renta, and in came more raw pieces, but still refined enough to live up to the Nina Ricci name. Today, the autumn/winter 2016 collection was elegant and slightly dark, with lots of 90s slip dresses, layering of large coats, leather and satin skirts and even a grey buttoned cape. The models looked simple with hair swept back and minimal make up, letting the clothes do all the talking. I loved the midi skirts which fell to just above the ankle and the pointy high heels.

Mugler
I have always loved Thierry Mugler for their sexy midi dresses, form fitting skirts and amazing tailoring. For Fall 2016, Mugler delivered an amazing show, consisting of lots of leather, bright bursts of lemon yellow and of course, a few black dresses. Shiny leather trousers were paired with boots and stylish blouses, boxy jackets were worn with cigarette pants while textures were used such as crocodile and leopard on mini skirts and the lapels of coats. The dresses towards the end of the show were the most sculptural, cut away at the waist, with deep v necks or thigh high splits. You've definitely got to be a size 8 or smaller to wear these Mugler dresses well, as they clung to every lump and bump. But when you're Joan Smalls (who closed the show in a floor length dress) I guess these things don't matter!

Yohji Yamamoto
I'm not really a Yohji fan, but this fall 2016 collection was striking and very edgy. From the severe black lipstick and the very monochrome ensembles, this was classic Yohji in every possible way. Long lean silk trousers were worn with long cardigans or sleeveless waistcoats, buttoned silk shirts were cut short with material purposefully turned inside out while the chunky biker boots only added to hard-core, Avant Garde look. Minimalism at its finest.

Christian Dior
The sad thing about Dior at the moment is that it has kind of lost its way a little bit. Raf has gone, there's no new creative director, the design team have had to take over and it's all a bit of a shambles really. Todays Dior collection was nice, carrying on from where Raf Simmons left off in October. It was slick in its use of cold colours against black and white, while the simplicity of the clothes kept the new minimal Dior look alive. It was a surprise to see Kendall Jenner walking for such a prestigious name as Dior, yet what she wore on the catwalk was stylish with a fur lapelled black dress. Unfortunately this show will not count for much, it's painful to say, as it will be forgotten in Dior's history. I loved the round sunglasses and pointed brogues though, very cool.

Lanvin
I have to say the same thing about Lanvin as I did with Dior. Lanvin, a brand which flourished under the guidance of Alber Elbaz for 14 amazing years, has sadly been tossed to the side as we wait for a new creative director to be announced. LVMH have given no hint whatsoever when that will be, and judging by this collection they need to find someone new...fast! There was nothing wrong with their fall 2016 show, it just lacked the precision and razor sharp tailoring we have become used to under Elbaz. The a-symmetric dresses were in there, pretty lace tops with black trousers, silk pastel coloured skirts and fur stoles, but it wasn't exciting or dramatic. Even the venue was different. Since I was 13 Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands and I really want them to be incredible once again. Bring back Alber!

Isabel Marant
For chic Parisian style, look no further than Isabel Marant. This lady has led the way for years when it comes to the cool, effortless attitude French women carry so well, and for fall 2016 she delivered another collection packed full of winter basics. From the belted black coats and cosy beige knits, to the preppy curled hair and zebra print leggings, each piece would fit perfectly in with anyone's wardrobe. Anna Ewers closed the show in a barely there LBD complete with ruffles and ruching on the side, but all the looks really were just as cool.  

Loewe
What J.W Anderson is doing at Loewe is just really incredible. This young British designer has turned a rather old fashioned fashion house into one of the most influential brands in the world, with collections which keep pushing the boundaries season after season. This season he sent cat mask necklaces down the catwalk in all different colours (I want one!) layered over tan leather jackets, black corset dresses, graphic t-shirts and even tweed two pieces. Styles were loose, with coats dropping to well below the knee and cinched in at the waist. Very cool and very modern.

Paris Couture Week Highlights

Elie Saab
Where do I begin with this show? Everything about it was just so perfect, magical and amazing. Paying homage to India, this show featured heavily embellished draped scarves across the body and dresses, silk veils and plenty of asymmetrical layering. There was also a modern Victoriana twist, with classic period costumes given a 21st century make over, just take a look at what Mica Arganaraz was wearing.  All the models looked like princesses with silver a headpiece on their head, wearing such beautiful creations each.

As for the final bridal dress, it was Indian inspired and divine. Based on a traditional sari, silk was tucked into a slim belt and then fell down covering the floor. The train was long and full of layered silks to fill it out more everywhere you looked it sparkled in the catwalk lights. Who knows how much this dress would cost, but I can assure you for one lucky woman it will be worth it.

Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld, who I still can't believe is 82, is always a big talking point of any Paris couture week. This season he went all eco friendly with his wooden set, promising to recycle the whole thing and invited a very green Gwyneth Paltrow to his show. Before the show even started, Cara Delevingne caused a stir when she brought her dog Leo along with her, who sat very well behaved next to her and a rather bemused Carine Roitfeld. And then once the show started, all anyone could talk about afterwards was the Kendall/Gigi/Bella trio who appeared in the show. Now I'm all for them modelling for Chanel, but really there are more important things to talk about such as the clothes, not a bunch of reality tv stars.

It was a classic Chanel couture collection. The tweed suit played a huge part in varying lengths and colours as did the famous bouclè suit, made iconic by Coco Chanel. Gold was used to maximum effect with flecking on skirts and jackets and accessories to, while large shoulders and slim fitting 1920s silhouettes gave the whole thing an elegant, refined finish. Shoes with wooden soles were the only Eco link to the set, as the rest of the collection was a mix of evening wear and very luxurious day wear. I could sense a certain Abu Dhabi feel to the clothes, as the richness and simple colours used were very 'Sheikh.' Capes were casually thrown over bare shoulders, bum bags baring the Chanel logo were placed centre stage and large square pockets were adorned onto long cardigans and jackets. My favourite piece had to be the slim fitting white dress with a high peplum and gold fastenings. You can't help but appreciate the beauty that goes into a Chanel collection. Magnificent.

Armani Privè
Giorgio Armani always sticks to the same colour scheme... and it works. Soft lilacs, deep velvets, midnight blues and silver metallics were used throughout this elegant collection much like many of his others, which was an absolute delight to watch. Models strolled down the runway, complete with softly waved hair a la Veronica Lake, and purple ankle boots. It was all very dreamy, and many of the dresses were clear contenders to make an appearance at this years Academy Awards such was the beauty and layers of sumptuous fabric. Silk Trousers came with pleats along the outside of the leg, ruffles were used to full effect adorned on dresses while transparent materials were casually strewn across beaded tops.

Ralph & Russo
Wow! That was the only word I could utter after seeing the finale of the Ralph and Russo show. Isabelli Fontana majestically swept down the catwalk wearing one of the most embellished and breath taking wedding dresses I've ever seen, with floor length sleeves and a huge train. It was simply stunning and well worth the applause that erupted at the end of the show.
The rest of the collection was very R&R, with a strong emphasis on form fitting shapes and eccentrically feminine pieces. I loved the monochrome floral cocktail dresses as well as the pretty purple pieces, similar to the soft colours used by Armani in his couture show. This design duo know how to do couture like no other, and this confident, spell binding collection was incredibly beautiful. Probably my favourite show so far of Paris Fashion Week - I want every piece.

Giambattista Valli
Usually this designer is one of my favourites of couture week. But even though there was no mistaking the beauty of these clothes, they just didn't have the same pizzazz and wow effect that Giambattista Valli usually has on me. Nevertheless, the embellished mini dresses were intricate and clearly made with such close attention to detail. Ruffles appeared on pinafore dressed, with embroidered flowers while the more dramatic looks in black were very grown up. As always at the end of a Valli show, all the huge ball gowns descended onto the runway in bright popping colours. It made an impact but it wasn't amazing, and I expect amazing when watching a designer with so much history and depth to its fashion house. It was still a wonderful collection, which will make Valli clients very happy.

Atelier Versace
Kicking off proceedings on Sunday evening was a touch of Italian style with atelier Versace. Donatella certainly called in some big names to walk in her show, including Gigi Hadid, Irina Shayk, Natasha Poly, Lara Stone and Rosie Huntington Whiteley. As for the clothes, it was all very Versace. Cut out slip dresses which fell to the ground, intricate ropes which held together barely there mini dresses and splashes of bold neon brights on white pieces. Glamour and sophistication is what Donatella does best, and this collection certainly wasn't lacking any of that. I loved the electric blue dress worn by RHW which had an extremely high split, as well as the sultry hair and make up, consisting of dark eyes and a glowing complexion. Another fantastic Versace show with enough sex appeal to last a lifetime.

Christian Dior
The big talking point had to be Dior this couture week. Who is going to take over now    Raf is gone? What would the clothes be like? What is the future of Dior? Well, we still don't know who the new creative director will be, even though Sarah Burton has been heavily tipped to take the helm, but this Dior show still had a very strong sense of Raf Simmons still present. Dropped shoulders gave way to lovely folds of fabric, luxurious layering of tops over skirts, beautiful black lace dresses with plunging v necks and lots of embellishment made this a stunning Dior collection to remember. White was a key colour throughout even though black was used for a bit of drama. I thought the whole show was beautiful and very much what we have come to expect from Dior during the Raf years. The 2 young Dior designers who put this show together should be very proud of themselves.

A Homage to the City of Light

We were all deeply shocked by the awful news last Friday. Bombs and suicide gunmen in Paris, an explosion in Lebanon and various other terrorist attacks in Baghdad, Afghanistan and Syria which have left hundreds dead. It was unexpected, upsetting and frightening, not only for those living in bomb hit areas but for the rest of the world too who rallied together to support these countries at this difficult time.

But for us, as westerners, the real shock was Paris, a city which is just across the channel from us with innocent people who had done nothing to receive such horrific actions. This is the second time this year that Paris has been targeted, first with the Charlie Hebdo shooting in January and now these absurd, horrible attacks which left 129 dead at an international football match, a concert hall and in a a busy cafe. Nobody could have expected such a disaster to hit Paris on that Friday evening, which just so happened to be the unlucky Friday 13th, and the terrible impact it would have on all of us.

I don't want to dwell on the political inclinations or wade into the ongoing debate of what governments are going to now do to stop IS, but I just felt that it was right to share my sympathies on theFASHIONbox, in tribute to those who were wrongly and tragically murdered. Paris is one of my favourite cities in the world, and one which is iconic for its priceless art, delicious cuisine, rich history, beautiful architecture and of course, its fashion.

I have found this stunning and rather powerful photo-shoot from Christian Dior fall 2013 which I felt represented the mood at this sad and mournful time. The beautiful photography by Willy Vandeperre featuring supermodels Daria Strokous, Marie Piovesan, Anastasia Ivanova and Iselin Steiro sets the scene of Paris wonderfully, as a city which holds such charming elegance and grace. The photo-shoot, titled "Opera" is staged in a Paris opera house, and shows the intricate architecture as well as the rich, opulent culture Paris embodies. The clothes are amazing, all designed by Raf Simmons while he was at Dior, and shows us once again why Paris and France are such leaders when it comes to fashion and style.

We are all praying for Paris.