You don't get more beautiful dresses than at Elie Saab. This luxury brand are known for their simply sublime dresses, which never look amiss at the Oscars or Grammys. For fall, they went a little rock and roll, presenting a collection packed full of cool black leather jackets, polka dot skirts, 70s silk blouses and lace paneled dresses. Kendall Jenner looked amazing in a pink tie-dye dress while Magdalena Frackowiak stole the show in a red boho silk gown, with extra long sleeves and bare shoulders. I loved the smoky eye make up, adding to the glamorous rock theme as well as the roll call of fabulous dresses, I would literally do anything to wear. Even the black lace mini dresses were amazing, paired with floppy hats straight from the 1970s and chic knee high boots. A really great show.
Peter Copping's departure from Nina Ricci marked a turning point for the brand. Gone was all the glorious femininity which Copping carried over to his new home at Oscar de la Renta, and in came more raw pieces, but still refined enough to live up to the Nina Ricci name. Today, the autumn/winter 2016 collection was elegant and slightly dark, with lots of 90s slip dresses, layering of large coats, leather and satin skirts and even a grey buttoned cape. The models looked simple with hair swept back and minimal make up, letting the clothes do all the talking. I loved the midi skirts which fell to just above the ankle and the pointy high heels.
Mugler
I have always loved Thierry Mugler for their sexy midi dresses, form fitting skirts and amazing tailoring. For Fall 2016, Mugler delivered an amazing show, consisting of lots of leather, bright bursts of lemon yellow and of course, a few black dresses. Shiny leather trousers were paired with boots and stylish blouses, boxy jackets were worn with cigarette pants while textures were used such as crocodile and leopard on mini skirts and the lapels of coats. The dresses towards the end of the show were the most sculptural, cut away at the waist, with deep v necks or thigh high splits. You've definitely got to be a size 8 or smaller to wear these Mugler dresses well, as they clung to every lump and bump. But when you're Joan Smalls (who closed the show in a floor length dress) I guess these things don't matter!
I'm not really a Yohji fan, but this fall 2016 collection was striking and very edgy. From the severe black lipstick and the very monochrome ensembles, this was classic Yohji in every possible way. Long lean silk trousers were worn with long cardigans or sleeveless waistcoats, buttoned silk shirts were cut short with material purposefully turned inside out while the chunky biker boots only added to hard-core, Avant Garde look. Minimalism at its finest.
The sad thing about Dior at the moment is that it has kind of lost its way a little bit. Raf has gone, there's no new creative director, the design team have had to take over and it's all a bit of a shambles really. Todays Dior collection was nice, carrying on from where Raf Simmons left off in October. It was slick in its use of cold colours against black and white, while the simplicity of the clothes kept the new minimal Dior look alive. It was a surprise to see Kendall Jenner walking for such a prestigious name as Dior, yet what she wore on the catwalk was stylish with a fur lapelled black dress. Unfortunately this show will not count for much, it's painful to say, as it will be forgotten in Dior's history. I loved the round sunglasses and pointed brogues though, very cool.
Lanvin
I have to say the same thing about Lanvin as I did with Dior. Lanvin, a brand which flourished under the guidance of Alber Elbaz for 14 amazing years, has sadly been tossed to the side as we wait for a new creative director to be announced. LVMH have given no hint whatsoever when that will be, and judging by this collection they need to find someone new...fast! There was nothing wrong with their fall 2016 show, it just lacked the precision and razor sharp tailoring we have become used to under Elbaz. The a-symmetric dresses were in there, pretty lace tops with black trousers, silk pastel coloured skirts and fur stoles, but it wasn't exciting or dramatic. Even the venue was different. Since I was 13 Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands and I really want them to be incredible once again. Bring back Alber!
Isabel Marant
For chic Parisian style, look no further than Isabel Marant. This lady has led the way for years when it comes to the cool, effortless attitude French women carry so well, and for fall 2016 she delivered another collection packed full of winter basics. From the belted black coats and cosy beige knits, to the preppy curled hair and zebra print leggings, each piece would fit perfectly in with anyone's wardrobe. Anna Ewers closed the show in a barely there LBD complete with ruffles and ruching on the side, but all the looks really were just as cool.
Loewe
What J.W Anderson is doing at Loewe is just really incredible. This young British designer has turned a rather old fashioned fashion house into one of the most influential brands in the world, with collections which keep pushing the boundaries season after season. This season he sent cat mask necklaces down the catwalk in all different colours (I want one!) layered over tan leather jackets, black corset dresses, graphic t-shirts and even tweed two pieces. Styles were loose, with coats dropping to well below the knee and cinched in at the waist. Very cool and very modern.
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