Paris Fashion Week Highlights Fall 2016/17

Celine
With all the rumors circulating about Phoebe Philo's resignation in the last couple of months, this Celine collection was enough to firmly put a stop to any more Celine gossip. It was classic Celine, with loose over-sized shirts with starched collars, neutral tones layered over each other, strappy sandals with a black band across the toe (Philo's predicting a warm winter!) and lots of flared trousers in white, apple green and camel.A strong collection from an experienced designer, which makes a change at this PFW which has been a marry go round of change.

John Galliano
Black, navy and white were the key colours of choice this afternoon at John Galliano. There was also a military theme subtly running through the collection with double breasted jackets, long khaki coats and buttoned shirts. I loved the black neckties attached to white silk shirts and the dramatic black tulle dress which featured in the middle of the show. Slouchy knitted tops were paired with pleated with midi skirts while the 90s slip dress made an appearance at the end of the show. This was military chic with a touch of Parisian flare. Tres bien!

Balenciaga
Since Alexander Wang left Balenciaga last year we have been left in eager anticipation to see in which direction Balenciaga takes its house in next.  For fall 2016 the feeling was definitely sporty with a number of loose silhouettes, over-sized puffer jackets, neon brights and slouchy jackets taking centre stage.  As we have seen so far in PFW, next season is heralding the return of the midi skirt which Balenciaga featured in their show today in a variety of colours including burgundy, grey and black.  I have to admit I was not impressed with this collection.  From the first look I knew it would not be to the Balenciaga customers previous tastes. It was interesting to see the house look back at its heritage with a number of boxy grey check jackets and fitted 50's skirts opening the show, yet many of these pieces had no fit and made the size zero models look over-weight. We'll see how this collection sells when it hits the shops next season.

Paris Fashion Week Highlights

Balmain
Live streaming the Balmain fall 2016 show live, I knew we'd be in for a treat once the orchestra started playing. Haunting and beautiful, it was not long until Kendall Jenner opened the show with shocking blonde hair, followed by Gigi Hadid who had been dyed brunette for the occasion. In fact a lot of models in the show had their hair switched to opposite shades. Lily Donaldson looked different with brown hair, while natural brunettes Alesandra Ambrosio and Candice Swanepoel looked amazing with blonde locks. I hardly even recognised Rosie Huntington Whiteley!

The colours were pastel and pure. Baby blues and soft pinks were worn head to toe, featuring on highly embellished mini dresses, corset style tops with high necklines, knee high boots, suede high waist trousers and feathered skirts. Goodness knows how much these decadent pieces cost, but they were all very Balmain. Towards the end of the show, monochrome and touch of khaki were introduced on ruffled sheer skirts, velvet trousers and blanket coats, which were all designed with Kim Kardashian in mind, no doubt. I loved every second of this show, and herald Olivier Rousteing for once again delivering a Balmain Army of amazing pieces. My favourite look? It had to be that amazing blue jacket with fur along the arms and draped material around the neck. Simply divine.

Chloe
What a beautiful show Chloe presented us with this morning at the Grand Palais. From the beige poncho which opened to the show, the colourful fringed coat paired with a classic black dress, this was Chloe through and through. I loved the use of the tan aviator jacket worn with brown leather trousers and smart neckerchiefs, as well as the long, loose skirts worn with tight roll necks. There was a 70s theme, as always with Chloe, but this season it was more subtle, focusing more on long silhouettes and a relaxed vibe. Girls walked with loose, slightly curly hair adding to the Parisian chic feel, yet all the poncho shapes nodded more towards Navajo territory rather than the city streets of Paris.

Paco Rabane,
I don't usually pay much attention to Paco Rabane, even though its such a well known brand. But there was something about the fall 2016 collection which really appealed. Maybe it was the grunge aesthetic, or the combat trousers and sandals, but whatever it was it looked seriously cool. With hair pulled tightly back and clipped behind the head, models strode onto the catwalk in black boots and chunky sandals, wearing combat style gilet vests and plain tank tops with tailored trousers. There were swirls of colour on silk pyjama-style pieces, but black really was the basis of this collection, and you don't get much cooler than black.

 H&M
It seems that its not only Versace and Balmain who can draw in a role call of the worlds biggest supermodels, as retail giants H&M clearly showed today. From Natasha Poly opening the show, to Amber Valletta, Jourdan Dunn, Jamie Bell, Anja Rubik, Kate Mara and Freja Behe Erichson who closed the show, this was a seriously good lineup. H&M even had 65 year old Pat Cleveland walk in the show, one of the first black supermodels. As for the collection itself, there were lots of delicate slip pieces, Pharrell style hats, long harem pants, 70s bandannas and velvet jackets. It was very bohemian, with loose shirts tucked into trousers and very long hair extensions adding to the hippie feel. It was a surprise to see Valletta striding down the runway in a striped dress and navy boots, even if she did look a little like a pirate! But overall, it was stylish and quite glamorous for H&M.

Vionnet
Vionnet is one of the oldest and most respected fashion brands. Established by Madeline Vionnet at the turn of the 20th century, this house is known for its beautiful sweeping dresses and delicate attention to detail. It has been tossed to the side by a number of years, passing from one creative director to the next, but it looks like they are finally making a well deserved come back. Goga Ashkenazi is the person to thank for this collection, which was fluid and elegant. Long, lean lines in red and khaki were given a tough twist with black leather straps on the arms and waist, while the a-symmetric designs so loved by Madeline made an appearance. Knits were paired with billowing trousers, jumpsuits looked majestic and the overall feel was extremely grand.
 
Dries Van Noten
This has to be one of my favourite collections ever by Dries van Noten! Leopard print - check. Fur stoles - check. Tailored blazers - check. Lovely colours- check. This show really had it all, with the strong leopard motif running casually through the collection. I loved all the sporty stripes on trousers, and on ties, which looked very much like a private school uniform. Mustard yellow was paired with navy, red satin trousers looked surprisingly good with a green fur stole while the use of white and black were added to tone down all the patterns and bold colours. Slick hair and dark make up looked just as appealing and added to the sophisticated style of the show.

Maison Martin Margiela
For those of you who read this blog regularly, you'll know that I am an avid supporter of John Galliano. I cannot begin to tell you how glad I am that he is back designing again after a few turbulent years and his shows for Margiela keep on getting better and better. Galliano chose to stay with the military theme which has featured throughout all fall 2016 fashion weeks so far, with models wearing large black belts around their waist cinching in khaki buttoned jackets and shearling coats. Tights were worn under metallic dresses, ruched black boots were shiny against models bare legs while the feminine shapes help to give the clothes more substance. A really great show, from a great man.

Paris Fashion Week: Celine, Kenzo, Elie Saab and more...

John Galliano
Delicate and beautiful, this Galliano collection was perfectly parisian and cool yet feminine and quite dark. Black was a key colour, coming in sheer style slips and also on silk crop tops, shorts, long jackets and mini dresses. Polka dots made a brief appearence on midi dresses and tights as did splashes of colour such as electric blue. There were plenty of wearable dresses, maybe not the transparent ones for daytime, and added sparkle on skirts and patent leather shoes. I loved the use of draping in the skinny leg trousers and Grecian style white dress at the end of the show.

Elie Saab
It was obvious right from the beginning that this season, Elie Saab are looking to target a much younger customer. Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid and Lily Donaldson all took to the catwalk in beautiful dresses, bomber jackets and gladiator heels. It was a fun collection, with plenty of classic Elie Saab floral dresses, sweeping chiffon and layered ruffles adorned all over pretty, feminine dresses. I loved the use of black and white lace, as well as the candy floss stripes and punchy bold colours. The red jumpsuit was a fav!

Celine

Set in a giant circus tent, this Celine collection was as epic as ever. Pheobe Philo has a magic touch when it comes to minamilist chic, and this season was no different. Models walked effortlessly with swinging ponytail plaits at the back of their head, while carrying huge bucket bags, wearing leather dresses, gorgous oversized coats and loose smock dresses. Lapels were small and neat while seductive slips in white and black gave a nod towards underwear as overwear. Chino trousers were worn slightly creased, bold red lipstick off set colour blocks and decadent earrings were interesting and fun. There wasn't a strong circus theme in the collection, but it was still a spectacle.

Nina Ricci

Vampy, grungy, slick, stylish and sexy. The Nina Ricci spring/summer 2016 was dark and mysterious. It opened with khaki and finished with khaki, with lots in between. Rubber looking dresses, mustard mini skirts, slick silk blouses and tailored trousers; everything was thrown in there. I loved the daring sheer top which literally bared all and the feathered mini dresses which looked super luxurious. Kind of a little Lanvin, this show was dark but powerful realeasing our alter ego who likes to get dressed up to the nines and stalk the streets in style.

Thierry Mugler
Well, what a collection! And what a line up. Isabeli Fontana, Doutzen Kroes, Lily Donaldson and model of the moment Mica Arganaraz all stalked the runway for the latest Thierry Mugler show, in what was a very sexy, sophisticated and sharp collection. There was plenty of khaki pieces similar to Versace at MFW, the suede mini dress and leather trench coat were favourites, as well as lots of show off LBDs. Sparkle and metallics were thrown in as were large white buttons on pleated skirts and jumpsuits, with plenty of leg on display. If anything, this was a party collection with so many amazing pieces to dance the night away in. I loved the bold, orange coat dress that Isabeli Fontana wore with her dark hair slicked back with a side parting as well as the sexy floor length dresses at the end of the collection, which were form skimming and very glamorous. There was power and strenth but beautiful tailoring as well. An amazing collection.

Kenzo
Kenzo made his name in the 80s with 'Jungle Jap' and a cool, trendy image which chic Parisians could not get enough of. This was clearly evident in the latest collection for the urban brand, which was brimming with super cool yet stylish clothes with a crisp and elegant edge. It was very geometric, with red and yellow shapes splattered across white shift dresses and short coats, while bolder prints were adorned on knitwear and mini dresses.
And as for the INCREDIBLE gladiator shoes! They were fantastic and almost looked like a fashion suit of armour as they crawled up past the knee and up to the thigh. They looked difficult to walk in but with such shoes, who cares! They came in white, black and yellow so you could have a pair for everyday of the week if you really wanted. I loved the round John Lennon mirror sunglasses, the cool necklaces and the overall slickness of the collection. It was aimed at a younger audience, but then that is what Kenzo is made for really. The super stylish woman.

Paris Fashion Week: Best in Show

Balmain
Oh how I love Olivier Rousteing! Today's eagerly anticipated Balmain show was nothing short of fabulous, powerful, sexy, strong and majestic all rolled into one. Starting with bright orange suede looks, paired with deeper beige, the classic boxy jacket and skinny trouser combo were immediately introduced, as well as fierce shoulder pads and cinched in waists. Dresses were as clingy and form fitting as ever, with emphasis on leotards worn underneath sheer midi skirts - the kind you can imagine Kim Kardashian spilling out of in a couple of months time. I also loved the sporty punches of colour and geometric pattern.

It was indeed the return of the 'Balmain Army' or in basic talk, the most beautiful, in demand models in the world. Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio, Isabeli Fontana, Costance Jablonski, Binx Wilson, Magdalena Frackowiak, Lindsay Wixon, Joan Smalls, Ginta Lapina, Kendall, Gigi, Bella.... the list literally goes on. But lets just say its quite an impressive ensemble which reflects the current prestige of Balmain in the show-off world of fashion. I loved all the power dressing and ruffled skirts, as well as the amazing mesh dresses and lace up booties. The whole feel of the collection was as slick as the models perfectly gelled back hair which hung in a high ponytail, with plenty of glamour and spice thrown into such a collection which we all know will sell out almost immediately when it hits stores. Another fantastic, energy charged, exhilarating show from Mr Rousteing who is literally turning the fashion world on its head.

  
Lanvin
I have to admit, this was not one of my favourite Lanvin collections, but it still was beautiful. Alber Elbaz, one of the most talented designers in the world, went for lovely prom dresses, jewel colours and chic monochrome looks this season, with plenty of accessories and amazing shoes. All the models rocked cropped hairstyles, while the shirt and trouser combo worked really well for such an elegant, luxury brand. It was a more gritty than previous Lanvin shows, but still had that sparkle. 

Chloe
I always looks forward to the Chloe shows at Paris Fashion Week. They are always light, pretty and wearable with key looks which later turn into much loved go-to editorial pieces. This season, Chloe went a little sporty but still stayed true to the delicate, carefree spirit it is known for. Tracksuits, hoodies,  vests and colours such as red and blue were a kind of grown up sporty chic, which gave way to mini dresses and paisley patterned jackets and trousers. I loved the white and pastel, lace dresses at the end of the collection, which were beautiful and a little 70's with all the silk ruffles.

Dries Van Noten
It was all 1950's glamour but with a 21st century twist at Dries Van Noten. Of course, there were plenty of prints, clashing colours, bold patterns and an added, imperial shine, but above all that, this was actually a very wearable and exciting collection. There was an eastern traveler vibe through all of the silk trousers with kimono style belts and metallic fabrics, as well as a sense of fun with black and white patterned tights, paired with high wedge sandals. If you are indeed planning on traveling the world, be sure to pack Noten somewhere in your suitcase as he understands this look so well.

Maison Martin Margiela
If you are a reader of this blog, you will know that I am one of John Galliano's most biggest fans! I'm not going to delve into the past and get all gushy about his return to fashion, but thank goodness he did. Margiela is a fashion house known for anonymity, new concepts and minimal tailoring, three things which Galliano did perfectly. It was seeped in historical references and beautiful geisha like kimono dresses, while the models wore beehives in their hair, adding a touch of 60s nostalgia. A wonderful collection from an amazing designer.

Anthony Vaccarello
Fresh from his amazing collection for Versus Versace at LFW, Vaccarello kicked things off across the water at Paris Fashion Week with a great collection, packed full of all his sexy classics. Mini dresses, daring flashes of leg, cut-out dresses, super skinny jeans... it was all in there. Models were cool and understated in khaki coloured jackets and short/skirts while I loved the tough love feel to the show. Who doesn't need a bit of Vaccarello magic in their lives?