From Marc Jacobs to Ralph Lauren; NYFW Highlights

RALPH LAUREN

There was a lot of talk surrounding Ralph Lauren this fashion week, as he announced that his brand would be staging 2 catwalk shows. As sales have fallen at Ralph Lauren over the past year, the designer introduced a new 'see now, shop now' approach to his latest collection. So pretty much what you see on the catwalk is available to buy straight away from any of his boutiques. Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Mica Arganaraz all made appearances, in a collection which was classic Ralph Lauren. From the Navajo references, smart grey suits, flared work trousers and the stunning jewel coloured evening dresses, this was Lauren at his finest while Julianne Moore and Rosie Huntington Whiteley watched from the front row.

Marc Jacobs

Well, Mr Jacobs certainly delivered quite a show for spring/summer 2017 as well as a lot of controversy. The problem wasn't the clothes, the make up or the staging on the catwalk. The issue which got a lot of people's backs up online and especially on Twitter was the fact that the models, mainly all white, were wearing fake dreadlocks, usually associated with black girls, not white girls. I thought the dread locks looked fun, edgy and experimental but I can easily see why this would have irked people. Why did Jacobs just not use black models? Race has always been a problem in fashion, especially for Italian designers, so it's a shame Marc Jacobs didn't use more stunning black girls like Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, Lineisy Montero, Binx Walton or Tami Williams.

Anyway, on to the collection itself. I LOVED this show. From the baby doll/Victoriana mini dresses to the retro 1970s feel, there was a real mix of influences going on. Continuing on from last season, Jacobs decided to send his models out in ridiculously high platform shoes in patent pink, metallic silver and purple. Metallics were used on coats and dresses as well as quilting patterns as seen on the coat worn by Gigi Hadid. I spotted leopard print and camouflage, large fur jackets, accentuated waists and a lot of layering. In fact, the whole thing looked as though it could have come straight out of a musical, maybe something like Starlight Express. Irina Shayk closed the show in a pair of high waist, pink hot pants and jacket, complete with matching boots. It was quite a spectacle, but that's what makes Marc Jacobs great.

Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid on the catwalk

 Hugo Boss

Jason Wu seems to be going from strength to strength as creative director at Boss. His latest collection for the minimal brand was colourful, fun yet stylish and extremely elegant. It was sporty yet relaxed with models walking in breach slides with hardly any make up or accessories. Oh and it was cool that Sasha Pivovarova opened the show too, and not Kendall/Bella/Gigi.

 Michael Kors

Apart from Bella Hadid's embarrassing trip down the catwalk, this show had a very easy going, relaxed feel to it. Kors gave us pretty floral tea dresses in navy and pink, grey check skirt suits, across the body satchel bags as worn by Joan Smalls who opened the show and some great options for evening wear with his sexy, black numbers which closed the show. I loved the messy beach hair and the wedge sandals, as well as the roll call of models. Carolyn Murphy closed the show in a lovely navy dress, while Cameron Russell, Anna Ewers, Taylor Hill and Andreea Diaconu all took their turn to walk. Amazing line up!

Rodarte

As always with Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy delivered a show packed full of beautiful yet slightly Gothic fashion. I loved all the pretty white looks that opened the show. The frills and ruffles were divine and the sheer fabrics layered over each other where just beautiful. By the way, white is a BIG colour for spring, or I should say 'tone' for next season. The embroidery was exquisite, the shearling jacket amazing with a black net skirt and boots while the decadent dresses at the end of the collection were stunning. Really captivating with such lovely colours.

 Victoria Beckham

I loved Victoria Beckham last season. With all the surfer chic references, it was pretty cool and quite different for her. This season however, I was bored by the 5th look. Yes she experimened with velvet, satin and silk and yes, there were a couple of nice dresses, but the overall feel of the show was very, well...boring. The punches of tangerine orange were nothing new for the designer while the bra let tops and skirts would have been nice with more detail. Not great from VB.

#NYFW: Altuzurra, DKNY, Philip Lim and more...

 DKNY

Wow! I didn't see that coming this season for DKNY, a brand more cool sweaters and shorts than sexy and stylish. Bella Hadid opened the show in a daringly low cut dresses highlighting her amazing figure, complete with a slouchy hood, followed by a collection which was very street-wear, minimal, oversized and only for the coolest kids in town. I can imagine Kylie Jenner will be all over this show. The credit goes to Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, who since they were appointed as creative directors of DKNY a few seasons ago, struggled to find their feet. Now however, they have certainly delivered, in some style too. Electric blue, soft beige, starch whites all worked together perfectly and as for that epic finale; simply the best.

Rag and Bone

 I always tend to prefer Rag and Bone's winter collections to their summer ones, just because their coats are amazing and their fur sublime. But this spring/summer 2017 collection was pretty good. Neat and stylish with a focus on sportswear, white was a key player as were bold reds on jumpers and bomber jackets. Navy stripe suits were silky and stylish as were the flowing black pieces paired with blue ankle boots. Not one of the greatest Rag and Bone shows, but nevertheless still very wearable with plenty of desirable pieces. 

Oscar de la Renta

I was surprised at the simplicity and overall elegance of this collection. From the floor length white dresses which opened the collection to the beautiful Arabian like patterns on crop tops and skirts, this show by Peter Copping was one of his best so far. I loved the slouchy dresses, tied at the waist with a tasseled rope, a great beach option for summer, as well as the dramatic gowns Copping sent out towards the end of the show. The whole collection was relaxed yet refined, in a way that made it look more modern than the de la Renta of old. Perhaps the brand is finally starting to travel in a new direction...

Altuzarra

Everyone loved this show, and it's easy to see why. Joseph Altuzarra, a talented young designer who always seems to go unnoticed besides his contemporaries Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler. His spring/summer 2017 collection was bound to catch attention though, with the python print shirts, cute pink cardigans, skirts and dresses, soft floral patterns and tightly cinched in waists with chunky belts. There was a little bit of Miu Miu this season at Altuzarra, with similar coat styles, wet hair looks and styling similar to the Miu Miu fall 2016 collection. Not that Altuzarra copied Miuccia Prada! From the larger than life earrings and super tight pencil skirts and the classic ladylike shapes, the designer did what he does best (which is elegance) but with such fun colours and prints. A really great show. 

 Proenza Schouler

As we saw at Altuzarra, big, dangly earrings were a thing at Proenza Schouler. In some respects, the whole collection was big, oversized, impactful and brightly geometric with flashes of primary colours against stark whites. Billowing stripe skirts were paired with boxy sweaters, Dalmatian print platform sandals were worn against form fitting dresses, while slouchy clutch bags were carried under arms, squeezed tightly to the model. Proenza always push the boundaries with their shows. This wasn't one of my favourite collections of the designer duo but those gorgeous accessories will no doubt be a big sell out next season.

Jeremy Scott

You can always rely on Jeremy Scott to inject some fun into fashion week. Last season it was Barbie mania, this season all the models wore 60's inspired wigs in a bowl cut style. The clothes were loud and proud, some tops bearing 'New York' in graffiti writing, others with 'Jeremy.' There was leather, mini skirts, a pink glittery bodysuit, and plenty of punchy pop art references. I especially liked  a black t-shirt which had a pair of legs in fishnet tights and red stilettos printed down the front. Very weird but cool, pretty much sums Jeremy Scott up!

  

3.1 Philip Lim

From the pretty white, floral dresses which opened the show to the light blue denims and python shoes, (python is a big trend for next season btw) Philip Lim threw a little bit of everything in this season. There were tailored looks, long black jackets, trousers and bra tops, as you can always expect with Lim, but also an injection of a more refined alternative to office wear. You can wear shorts to the office if worn with a buttoned jacket, sleek sandals and your hair tied up, according to Lim. The striped white jumpsuit was a favourite piece of mine, but then I also really liked the bright yellow pieces at the end of the show - one which was more neon than yellow!

NYFW: Spring/Summer 2017

Remember to keep checking theFASHIONbox for all the best shows straight from the International Catwalk Shows, starting with New York Fashion Week. Spring/Summer 2017 never looked better!

 Alexander Wang

Fresh, summery with a touch of grunge and as always with Wang, quite sporty. Alexander Wang's ss2017 collection at NYFW not only marked a new collaboration with Addidas but certified the designer as one of the hottest tickets in town - Madonna was sitting frow. I loved the bikini-cum dresses and the sporty leisure wear towards the end of the show. Wang doesn't usually do sexy, but this show had plenty of sex appeal. From the barely there dresses to the tight fitting ath-leisure clothing, everything was hot! I mean a bikini top mixed with a fur coat and flip flops? Only Wang could pull that off...

 Jason Wu

Navy, metallic, baby, pale... every shade of blue featured in Jason Wu's latest collection. There were floral patterns too as well as neon yellow and black, but it's safe to say that Wu was feeling pretty blue this season. I liked the slicked back hair of the models and the ladylike dresses which have become a staple of the designers. 

Zimmerman

I fell in love with the spring/summer 2017 Zimmerman collection as soon as I saw the first look. The ruffles, lace, checks, prairie girl feel were all so romantic and whimsical, and I especially loved the Victoriana style blouses. There was a freshness about this show, very elegant and pretty but also cool with slouchy striped trousers and cotton crop tops. One of my favs so far.

 Tommy Hilfiger

I didn't really know what to expect with Tommy Hilfiger this season. Since it was announced that Gigi Hadid would be co-designing the collection with the designer, I just saw it as another form of celebrity/model endorsement. I was correct in the fact that it drew in Taylor Swift and was trending on Twitter within minutes of the show starting, but the clothes were actually okay. Yes, the Hilfiger logo was everywhere but there was a real mix of all Hilfiger's best bits from over the years. Sporty yet refined, beach glam with high school preppy, this was classic Hilfiger.

 Cushnie et Ochs

Nobody does sexy, smoky evening glamour quite like this brand. Thigh split dresses, deep v necks, dramatic eye make up and simple minimal colours (mostly black and white) sums up Cushnie et Ochs. They have been showing for a couple of seasons now at New York and never disappoint with their body con midi dresses. Not the greatest collection I've seen, but there are plenty of pieces I'd wear nonetheless, and that sunset orange colour was to die for too!

NYFW: Proenza Schouler, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and more...

Ralph Lauren
Oh, what a show! I always say they leave the best to last at NYFW, with Boss, Proenza, Ralph and Marc all showing on the last two days. And this Ralph Lauren show just exuded Hollywood glamour, a country gentleman's sensibility and an air of 1930s excellence. Beige tweeds, neutral trouser suits and tan jackets formed the first part of the show, nodding to the country living mantra Lauren is famous for promoting. It was nice seeing the models in such masculine clohting as it was softened with the delicate hair and make up as well as the materials used, such as suede and wool. The belted coats were another highlight, as were the gol brocade jackets, embellished skinny jeans and ruffled blouses.

Gone was the hot, Flamenco senorita we saw last season, as Lauren went back to his Hollywood glam look, with a number of beautiful jewel coloured dresses at the end of the show. Pleated royal red numbers looked amazing against regal golds and blacks, with the models all wearing shiny leather boots. I loved the final look, a simple black roll neck paired with a billowing gold skirt. Majestic and amazing!

Marc Jacobs
I have to be honest, this collection was rather terrifying. It was not only the sinister hair and make up which made models unrecognizable but the clothes itself, which bordered on Gothic Victoriana mixed with prarie girl. The shoes as well were unbelievably high and very punk, with their huge wedges and lace up fronts. Everything was over-sized which made the models look completely out of proportion, with longer arms and even longer bodies. The catwalk was bare, with no gimmicks as seen last season at Marc Jacobs, while Lady Gaga made a surprise turn on the catwalk, tiny compared to the heights of her fellow models. Not one of Marc's best shows, but food for thought anyway. 

Proenza Schouler
They continue to be one of my favourite design duos ever, and a firm fixture at New York Fashion Week. Proenza have proved that whatever they send down the runway is an instant trend and is copied by dozens more designers. This season, they stuck with their strappy dresses showing off the shoulders and decolletage area, added some cute laces and conjured up a new slim silhouette. Large, loose harem pants were paired with crisp jackets and black boots, white biker jackets were decked with buttons and that rabbit patchwork coat had everybody talking, and was undoubtedly the star of the show. Clean, easy and minimal, exactly what we have come to expect from Proenza Schouler.

Hugo Boss
Since Jason Wu took the helm at Boss a couple of seasons ago, their collections have just got better and better - but still stay loyal to the minimal look they are known for. This season, splashes of colours such as coral pink, khaki green and burnt orange were featured on dresses and tailored blouses paired chicly with black trousers. Pepulums were used on most pieces with the fabric delicately folded over midi dresses like an origami pattern. Models walked with their head pulled back with a middle parting with, you guessed it, minimal make up. As simple as Boss was, it was very effective.

Anna Sui
What more can I say about the Anna Sui show... it was just classic Anna. A lot of the patterns we had already seen before, with strong references to boho chic and a 70s sensibility. A nice touch was seeing models walk in pairs down the runway, both wearing matching his and hers outfits. It was all very Mick Jagger complete with silk neck ties, metallic trousers and pretty baby doll dresses.Not one of my favourite collections from the veteran designer.

Michael Kors
Before the show even began, all eyes were on the beautiful Blake Lively who was sitting front row with her mum in a lovely beige coat and floral dress. Dressed head to toe in Kors, she looked every inch the movie star in the delicate colours and was joined by fellow actress Naomi Harris. As for the show, which was opened by Freja Beha Erichson, it was a autumnal mix of beige knitwear, feathered cropped trousers, fur coats and metallic mini dresses with dapper style fringing. There was no real theme, instead Kors gave us a little bit of everything from jeans to red carpet ready cocktail dresses. I loved the 60s baby blue coat with white collar and large sunglasses, as well as the overall styling of the collection. Check prints were paired with denim skirts, fur stoles with grey jersey and deep navies were used as a touch of sophistication to this all American woman. Another great show.

Marchesa
The Marchesa lady was in for a dramatic make over this fall. Gone were the pretty, frilled dresses we are so used to seeing and instead a sexier, more grown up woman was unveiled. A gold metallic dress shimmied down the runway, blue pastels were floaty and beautiful while the black sheer pieces were exceptionally beautiful but darkly mysterious. I loved the lace details and the bold use of reds and burgundy's against the black fabrics. As always, Marchesa delivered a beautiful collection. Watch the video below.