LFW: including Gareth Pugh, Mary Katrantzou and Mulberry

Mulberry
Well, Mulberry had definetly had a change of direction. Since Emma Hill left the brand, it took a while for them to find their feet again, even skipping a number of LFW's. Now, they have come back with a bang! This collection was refined and very wearable, with lots of military navy pieces, sweeping capes, sharp khaki trousers paired with white shirts and an emphasis on tailored suiting. There were even some tropical colours added into the mix, with Hawaiian coloured prints, a bright yellow slip dress and an orange midi dress. But overall, I was seriously impressed with the professionalism of these pieces and the direction Mulberry has now been steered in by Johnny Coca, formally of Celine fame. I predict great things again from this onve invincible fashion house.

Gareth Pugh

This has to be my favourite ever collection of Gareth Pugh's. It was absolutely fantastic, so powerful and bold with strong references to 1940s suiting, grey flannel shirt dresses and the colours of the American flag. Let's just say it was extremely American and very glamorous. Cheryl Cole looked great (and healthy) sitting front row in a grey mini dress while model Natasha Poly looked ravishing wearing a bright orange gown. 

As for the collection, models looked slightly Hannibal Lector-fied wearing tan masks across their mouths and prosthetic cheekbones while some wore amazing circle hats placed at the back of their heads reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty's crown. Everything was tight fitting and so stylish, with leather gloves, fur stoles, round sunglasses and brilliant cobalt mini dresses draped around the body. Right from the first look of a loser beige trouser suit, I knew this was going to be a good show, and I wasn't disappointed. Seriously wow!!

Mary Katrantzou
When reading Vogue.co.uk's catwalk report of this show, Emily Sheffield said that this particular Mary Katrantzou collection was very similar to Prada's current resort pieces. And I have to admit, she's right. This was all very Prada-fied, with gingham dresses, straight cut coats, bold geometric patterns and preppy headscarves. Yet, I really enjoyed it. Mary Katrantzou was and still is the queen of digital prints, yet this show featured pattern but in a very neutral way, focusing more on the cut of the material. I liked the silk polka dot shirts, straight midi skirts and use of primary colours, as well as the overall feel of the collection. 

 

Topshop Unique

From the khaki parka jackets to the silk leopard print tops, the monochrome check trousers and the short fur coats, this show was classic Topshop Unique; super cool and easy. I loved the styling of this show, especially the use of black and white towards the end of the show. It was all very stylish and sleek, with lovely aviator jackets, leather skirts, brown fur collars and ankle boots. Personally, I would wear every piece in this collection and know that it will be an instant sell out once it's available to buy. I'll be first in line.

David Koma
Minimal and stylish, this David Komo fall 2016 show was left untouched and bare - in a good way. From the sleek grey pieces which opened the show, tied neatly at the waist with a thick band, to the sexy white cut out dresses which would look perfect on the red carpet, there was something for everyone in this show. Some of the black dresses did look very Versus Versace with the large jewels embellished on them, but there were all extremely cove-table paired with navy knitwear and boots. There was a quick injection of colour in the form of cobalt blue and burgundy, but really this show was all about the simplicity of tonal hues.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Dark florals, powder pink coats, sequinned dresses and sheer black lingerie-esque pieces; there was a right old mix match of themes in Preens latest collection. But overall it was dark, slightly ominous and a little grungy. I loved the glittered pink dress towards the end of the show, only because preen aren't known for their use of such sickly sweet colours. But there were classic check patterns thrown in, grey jersey tops paired with sweeping floral skirts, large coats and frilled black and white trousers which looked rather cool when the models walked down the catwalk. Not the best Preen collection I've seen, but it was still pretty good. 

Simone Rocha

I do like some of Simone rochas pieces, but I wouldn't say I was an outright fan. She seems to do the same thing almost every season, with collections which basically mirror her everyday wardrobe. However I did like the baby pink pastel hues in her fall 2016 show as well as the gothic Victoriana theme. Fabrics were loose and billowing, make up was severe and there was an element of grunge with the wet hair, chunky layers and dark black tones. 

House of Holland 

We all need a bit of Henry Holland in our lives. He really does bring the fun to LFW the same way in which Jeremy Scott does at New York. For Autumn/winter 2016, there was a little bit of everything we've come to expect from Holland. Leopard print mini dresses, glittery tights, loud fur coats, denim pieces paired with graphic t-shirts and lots of bright colours which really shouldn't ever be put together. I thought it was all very Kate Moss circa the 2000s mixed with the high octave glam of the 1980s. Really fun, outgoing and a great collection. 

Julian Macdonald

While I was watching this show, I couldn't help but realise how Italian the collection was in terms of style. There were so many sexy black cut out dresses a la Versace, amazing fringed pieces similar to Roberto Cavalli and sweeping red carpet gowns dripping in jewels, just like Giambattista Valli. Macdonald really should consider showing in Milan next season.

Apart from these minor similarities, this was a classic Julian Macdonald show with all the sex appeal and womanly shapes we know and love him for. The finale look was sweet with a model walking the catwalk holding the hands of a little boy and girl in cute mini-me outfits yet the dresses at the end of the show were anything but sweet, more sultry in nudes and beiges. This was a collection divided between menswear and womenswear with a lot of male models showing off Macdonalds men's pieces. A new line to look forward to in the future maybe...