We've had Pucci in the 60's. All bright, bold and loud embedded on scarves and mini dresses. Then Missoni. Woolen knits, in all the colours of the rainbow, just right for cold, winter evenings around the fire. Etro emerged in the 90's with their Arabian paisley prints; a key part of their heritage. And now for the 21st centurary, there is a new Queen of prints, in the form of the exciting, new London based Greek born designer: Mary Katrantzou.
Since her gradutate collection for Central Saint Martins in 2008, Katrantzou has caused quite a strom surrounding London fashion, becoming a firm favourite at fashion week (even Anna Wintour's a fan.) With her colourful display of prints on every imaginable piece of clothing, she has established herself as the new Queen of the fabulous print. The extraordinary thing about Katrantzou's designs is that, her prints really shouldn't go together, yet they do so beautifully that even Anna Dello Russo and Rihanna have turned into devout fans. Heard of her lampshade dress? A classic Mary fashion staple, this dress looks like a lampshade (the clues in the name), billowing out at the waist to create an unusual yet flattering silhutte, coveted by editors and buyers alike. Then last spring, she presented a collection of prints inspired by postal stamps found on her travels. One word: AMAZING. Who knew that wearing an Indian stamped t shirt would look so chic? Geometric patterns and shapes featured one season while for spring 2014, Katrantzou went all girly with flower prints taking centre stage.
Spring 2014 was a more relaxed, summery collection with a main motif of flowers. Her famous lampshade dress still featured but was updated with crop tops and frills around the bust area. Pastel colours and white were the base of her colour palette while fabric was left loose, billowing as the models strutted down the catwalk. All in all, prints were not as controlling. What I mean is, the clothes weren't overpowered like they usually are with crazy prints, which was a nice change and a new look for the Katrantzou customer. This was a delightful show, with many wearable pieces that, I have no doubt have gone straight on the summer shopping list of eager fashionistas, demanding a slice of Katrantzou fashion.
Mary and the rest of the London fashion crew (Kane, Saunders, Erdem etc) are doing great things for London fashion at the moment. After a long wait, London is starting to be taken seriously with new, young, creative talent erupting out of fashion universities up and down the country, firmly making their mark in womens wardrobes. Katrantzou has also managed to inherit the crown only worn by the best print designers, who have taken the use of pattern on garments to a whole new level. Fun, energetic and bright, I can only wonder what Mary Katrantzou will do next season...
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