Paris Couture Week: Valentino and Zuhair Murad

A Midsummer Night's Dream at Valentino 
I always have great expectations when watching a Valentino show, especially when it's a couture show. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are masters at their craft and this 66 piece Valentino collection was absolutely divine.

It felt as though we were watching an act from A Midsummer Night's Dream, with dresses embroidered with floral designs, layers of sweeping silk draped upon the body and a sense of the Orient with decadent dragon patterns adorned onto column dresses. Everywhere you looked there was a sense of beautiful radiance, from the catwalk which was covered in tiny gold pieces of tissue to the models who walked barefoot with elegant snake headpieces in their hair. Rich golds, forest greens and the classic black and white were used to full effect, with amazing beige transparent fabrics used on the stunning gowns at the end of the show.

Angels and heavenly aura always spring to mind when watching Valentino. I loved the bright patterned long jackets which were layered over full gowns, as well as that amazing gold mesh creation and the heavy necklaces which wrapped around the middle of the dress like a medieval belt. Mariano Fortuny was the clear inspiration behind this collection, and this art like motif was reflected in the show, with Roman and Grecian influences shining through. Truly stunning.

A Haute Fairytale at Zuhair Murad
Zuahir Murad is one of those go to red carpet designers that will never let you down. Maybe thats why he's a firm favourite by the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Cheryl Cole and Emma Stone. His haute couture collection yesterday was nothing short of amazing, with such exquisite jewel colours, full long dresses and even an incredible encrusted playsuit with large shoulder pads - that was one of the favourite looks.

Focusing on pastel colours such as soft baby blues, light pinks, acidic yellows and olive greens this show was feminine and light, but with plenty of glamour too. The show opened with a number of radiant white looks, with lots of see-through lace panelling on crinolined skirts and even a white pair of cigarette trousers, which was a nice change from all the dresses we're used to seeing. The waist was continually highlighted with a very womanly silhouette, using thin belts to cinch in the prominent feature. But above all, I loved the way the collection flowed running through like a kaleidoscope of colour. So rich and powerful, but also soft and very beautiful.

There was a nature theme, similar to Valentno with leaves and flowers entwined onto cage skirts. Pieces came shorter at the front and longer at the back showing off the leg, large duchess satin dresses felt from the hips cascading across the floor, while the wide wedding dress at the end of the collection was a perfect finale piece. I would definitely expect to see a number of these stunning pieces appearing on the Oscars red carpet next month, and will be pretty surprised if they fail to do so.

Paris Couture Week Highlights

Elie Saab
Where do I begin with this show? Everything about it was just so perfect, magical and amazing. Paying homage to India, this show featured heavily embellished draped scarves across the body and dresses, silk veils and plenty of asymmetrical layering. There was also a modern Victoriana twist, with classic period costumes given a 21st century make over, just take a look at what Mica Arganaraz was wearing.  All the models looked like princesses with silver a headpiece on their head, wearing such beautiful creations each.

As for the final bridal dress, it was Indian inspired and divine. Based on a traditional sari, silk was tucked into a slim belt and then fell down covering the floor. The train was long and full of layered silks to fill it out more everywhere you looked it sparkled in the catwalk lights. Who knows how much this dress would cost, but I can assure you for one lucky woman it will be worth it.

Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld, who I still can't believe is 82, is always a big talking point of any Paris couture week. This season he went all eco friendly with his wooden set, promising to recycle the whole thing and invited a very green Gwyneth Paltrow to his show. Before the show even started, Cara Delevingne caused a stir when she brought her dog Leo along with her, who sat very well behaved next to her and a rather bemused Carine Roitfeld. And then once the show started, all anyone could talk about afterwards was the Kendall/Gigi/Bella trio who appeared in the show. Now I'm all for them modelling for Chanel, but really there are more important things to talk about such as the clothes, not a bunch of reality tv stars.

It was a classic Chanel couture collection. The tweed suit played a huge part in varying lengths and colours as did the famous bouclè suit, made iconic by Coco Chanel. Gold was used to maximum effect with flecking on skirts and jackets and accessories to, while large shoulders and slim fitting 1920s silhouettes gave the whole thing an elegant, refined finish. Shoes with wooden soles were the only Eco link to the set, as the rest of the collection was a mix of evening wear and very luxurious day wear. I could sense a certain Abu Dhabi feel to the clothes, as the richness and simple colours used were very 'Sheikh.' Capes were casually thrown over bare shoulders, bum bags baring the Chanel logo were placed centre stage and large square pockets were adorned onto long cardigans and jackets. My favourite piece had to be the slim fitting white dress with a high peplum and gold fastenings. You can't help but appreciate the beauty that goes into a Chanel collection. Magnificent.

Armani Privè
Giorgio Armani always sticks to the same colour scheme... and it works. Soft lilacs, deep velvets, midnight blues and silver metallics were used throughout this elegant collection much like many of his others, which was an absolute delight to watch. Models strolled down the runway, complete with softly waved hair a la Veronica Lake, and purple ankle boots. It was all very dreamy, and many of the dresses were clear contenders to make an appearance at this years Academy Awards such was the beauty and layers of sumptuous fabric. Silk Trousers came with pleats along the outside of the leg, ruffles were used to full effect adorned on dresses while transparent materials were casually strewn across beaded tops.

Ralph & Russo
Wow! That was the only word I could utter after seeing the finale of the Ralph and Russo show. Isabelli Fontana majestically swept down the catwalk wearing one of the most embellished and breath taking wedding dresses I've ever seen, with floor length sleeves and a huge train. It was simply stunning and well worth the applause that erupted at the end of the show.
The rest of the collection was very R&R, with a strong emphasis on form fitting shapes and eccentrically feminine pieces. I loved the monochrome floral cocktail dresses as well as the pretty purple pieces, similar to the soft colours used by Armani in his couture show. This design duo know how to do couture like no other, and this confident, spell binding collection was incredibly beautiful. Probably my favourite show so far of Paris Fashion Week - I want every piece.

Giambattista Valli
Usually this designer is one of my favourites of couture week. But even though there was no mistaking the beauty of these clothes, they just didn't have the same pizzazz and wow effect that Giambattista Valli usually has on me. Nevertheless, the embellished mini dresses were intricate and clearly made with such close attention to detail. Ruffles appeared on pinafore dressed, with embroidered flowers while the more dramatic looks in black were very grown up. As always at the end of a Valli show, all the huge ball gowns descended onto the runway in bright popping colours. It made an impact but it wasn't amazing, and I expect amazing when watching a designer with so much history and depth to its fashion house. It was still a wonderful collection, which will make Valli clients very happy.

Atelier Versace
Kicking off proceedings on Sunday evening was a touch of Italian style with atelier Versace. Donatella certainly called in some big names to walk in her show, including Gigi Hadid, Irina Shayk, Natasha Poly, Lara Stone and Rosie Huntington Whiteley. As for the clothes, it was all very Versace. Cut out slip dresses which fell to the ground, intricate ropes which held together barely there mini dresses and splashes of bold neon brights on white pieces. Glamour and sophistication is what Donatella does best, and this collection certainly wasn't lacking any of that. I loved the electric blue dress worn by RHW which had an extremely high split, as well as the sultry hair and make up, consisting of dark eyes and a glowing complexion. Another fantastic Versace show with enough sex appeal to last a lifetime.

Christian Dior
The big talking point had to be Dior this couture week. Who is going to take over now    Raf is gone? What would the clothes be like? What is the future of Dior? Well, we still don't know who the new creative director will be, even though Sarah Burton has been heavily tipped to take the helm, but this Dior show still had a very strong sense of Raf Simmons still present. Dropped shoulders gave way to lovely folds of fabric, luxurious layering of tops over skirts, beautiful black lace dresses with plunging v necks and lots of embellishment made this a stunning Dior collection to remember. White was a key colour throughout even though black was used for a bit of drama. I thought the whole show was beautiful and very much what we have come to expect from Dior during the Raf years. The 2 young Dior designers who put this show together should be very proud of themselves.

The Glamour Goddess: Rita Hayworth

From Marilyn Monroe to Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner to Sophia Loren, the Hollywood actresses of the golden 1950s era have always been a huge inspiration for me.

Back then, you didn't have the so called 'Z list' stars we have today from the likes of TOWIE, Keeping up with the Kardashians and Geordie Shore. During the Golden Era of Hollywood, there was only space for the big movie stars, and they were worshiped by the general public and film studios alike.

The love affairs of Elizabeth Taylor eclipsed the top news stories worldwide; the elegance of Audrey Hepburn was admired by every woman remotely interested in fashion while the dancing of Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers was seen as a pure thing of beauty. Yet one lady who sometimes goes unnoticed when it comes to movie icons is the legendary Rita Hayworth. She was one of the first major pin up stars, famous for her fiery red hair and athletic body, as well as her talented singing, dancing and of course acting roles.

But she wasn't always Rita Hayworth. Margarita Carmen Cansino was born in October 1918 in Brooklyn, New York. She grew up into a family of dancers, with her father natively from Spain, moving them all to Hollywood in 1927 to teach the movie stars to dance (one of his pupils was a young Jean Harlow.) Eventually she was signed to Fox Studios where she started off playing small roles in low budget films but later moved to Columbia Pictures after they dropped her for in favour of Loretta Young. But Rita came back fighting. 'Only Angels have Wings' proved to be her big break, starring opposite Cary Grant and Jean Arthur in the smash hit film. Meanwhile she had adopted her mother’s surname Hayworth after the studious felt that Rita was too exotic for Hollywood, and the new image created for Rita would propel her into super stardom.

Rita is most famously known for her dance routine in 'Gilda' where she sweeps across the stage, telling the audience to 'Put the blame on Mame' in a black satin dress. Her impeccable wardrobe in 'Lady From Shanghai' was magnificent as she starred alongside her then husband Orsen Welles, while her other blockbuster movies, included 'You'll Never Get Rich,’ ‘Cover Girl’ and 'The Loves of Carmen.' In all of these movies, her fantastic dancing abilities are clear, with Fred Astaire once saying that Rita was in fact his favourite dance partner - move aside Ginger!  She married 5 times, once to the Prince Aly Khan and had 2 children, as well as establishing herself as the original ‘love goddess’ - one of the most famous pin up girls during World War 2. She died aged 68 from Alzheimer’s disease in 1987 in New York. The legendary actress made a total of 61 films over 37 years at the peak of her career.

I love Rita, especially her style and sophistication. She always looked amazing in her satin and silk gowns used for her famous dance scenes as well as her more casual attire, consisting of fur coats, black gloves and ladylike shift dresses. Back then, fashion was not available to the masses, and millions of women looked to the movies for inspiration. Always the most glamourous woman in the room, there’s not one bad photograph of Rita, whether she be on the beach in a bikini or walking the red carpet in Cannes. Rita Hayworth was one of those icons and she will go down in history as being one of the most successful actresses of the Hollywood golden era, and one of the most stylish.

Balenciaga's Eternal Beauty

I look back at the Balenciaga spring/summer 2016 show with bitter sweet memories. First of all it was Alexander Wang's last collection for the fashion house. I was never a fan of Wang's appointment as creative director of the brand, but his final collection was nothing less than incredible. It was ironic that he kept his best show till last, not purposefully of course, but because this thing always happens with fashion. He took a risk, and it paid off excellently, allowing Wang to leave on a high.

It was angelic. Every piece crisp white, with sumptuous silk layering, delicate frills, ruffles and intricate lace paneling. In many ways, it was similar to the way in which Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy works, with the underwear theme running through the collection and the romanticism of the clothes, but this was Wang at his finest. The clothes told a story, with their effortless beauty and simple aestheticism, with models striding down the catwalk with their hair gently tied back, make up fresh and natural. It was truly a show of natural beauty, and now the ad campaign photos have been released featuring the 2015 Model of the Year, Anna Ewers and Zoe Kravitz, who both walked in the show. Whether posing poolside or lying on the marble floor of a stately home, the clothes and magic of Balenciaga shine through thanks to photographer Steven Klein and his remarkable camera lens.

Compared to last season, when Lara Stone and Kate Moss modeled for the brands autumn/winter 2015 collection, this current campaign is extremely light. Moss and Stone were photographed with graphically dark make up with an industrial setting surrounding them, while for spring the tables have turned considerably. I love this collection as well as these stunning photographs.

Take a look below at Klein's wonderful photography or watch the show at this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ew9-CcRy1A

Golden Globes 2016: Best Dressed

The 2016 Golden Globes awards took place at the Beverly Hilton Hotel last night. It was an evening full of amazing red carpet fashion, successful winners, inspiring acceptance speeches and a Ricky Gervais, who played witty host for the evening. It was an emotional night for Leonardo diCaprio, who was treated to a standing ovation after accepting his Best Actor award for 'The Revenant,' while Lady Gaga was in a state of shock after she won the award for Best Actress in a limited series for TV.  She looked radiant in a black Versace dress with her blonde locks swept up into a sophisticated style like an old Hollywood movie star.

It was no surprise that Jennifer Lawrence picked up another Golden Globe this year with her stunning performance in 'Joy' while British actress Kate Winslet won an award for Best Supporting Actress for her role in the Steve Jobs epic. Matt Damon, Sylvester Stallone and Taraji P Henson also picked up awards for their acting roles, while 'Writings on the Wall' from the movie Spectre, won Best Original Song, beating Elie Goulding's 'Love me Like you Do' from Fifty Shades of Grey and 'See you Again' from Fast & Furious 7. Quentin Tarentino accepted the award for Best Original Score on behalf of legendary composer Ennio Morricone for his soundtrack for the Western hit 'The Hateful Eight' while Amy Schumer and JLaw got the audience laughing when they came on to present an award.

Overall, it was a fantastic evening and a nod to who will be lucky enough to win big at the Oscars this year. As always, fashion was a big talking point and the question of which designers were featured on the red carpet. We saw a lot of colour on this years red carpet, Jennifer Lawrence wore a crimson Dior gown with a sparkling silver choker, Julianne Moore looked amazing in a midnight blue Tom Ford gown, Amy Adams rocked an orange frock complimenting her fiery red hair while Gina Rodriguez in Zac Posen went for a deep shade of blue. Kate Bosworth looked radiant in Dolce & Gabbana while new star Alicia Vikander wowed in a simple white Louis Vuitton dress. But the real star had to be Jennifer Lopez, who once again pulled out all the stops in a sweeping yellow Giambattista Valli gown, complete with an elegant cape.

Cate Blanchett dazzeled in a pale pink Givenchy dress from the spring/summer 16 collection, Emmy Rossum looked majestic in red Armani Prive and Rosie Huntington Whiteley (who flashed a large engagement ring) went for a plunging beige gown for the awards show, accompanied by boyfriend Jason Statham. However, not every celebrity got it right on the night. Twitter reacted immediately to Jane Fonda's frilly dress, Katy Perry's pink Prada dress did little to flatter her figure while Kate Hudson's Michael Kors crop top/skirt combo made little impact. Other frock horrors of the night were Kate Winslet, Mellisa McCarthy's heavily draped dress, Natalie Dormer's over complicated gown and Heidi Klum who resembled a bird in her Marchesa gown.

See all the red carpet looks below from the 2016 Golden Globe Awards below...

A trip to Portofino with Dolce and Gabbana

First of all, let me start by saying Happy New Year! Whatever this year holds for you, I hope it is fabulous, enjoyable and you achieve everything you set out to do. With the start of 2016 brings in the new season ad campaigns. From Gigi Hadid and Natasha Poly for Versace, Natalia Vodianova for Prada and Lineisy Montero and Mica Arganaraz for Chanel; these spring advertising campaigns are sure to put a spring in your step. But it is the Dolce and Gabbana ad campaign which stands out as a clear favourite for me. 

If you can remember back to their Spring/Summer 2016 catwalk show, you will recall a trip to Southern Italy, preferably Portofino, with lots of selfies involved. Models paraded down the runway in colourful, embellished dresses, striking summer hats, brown raffia handbags and beautiful silk scarves on their head - think jet set Italian glamour circa 1950s. Their stunning campaign mirrors that jovial holiday feeling, with scenes reminiscent of a vintage Italian restaurant complete with gingham table cloths, plates full of spaghetti and all members of the family gathering for a fun lunch. There are even two nuns photographed passing by! 'Italia is Love' was the clear message of the show, and these photographs reflect Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's love for their country. All the models wear decadent crowns on their head, layers of jewelry and encrusted heels that are sure to be a sell out immediately. Overall, a wonderful campaign from two of my favourite designers.