Friday, 2 October 2015

#PFW: Dior, Isabel Marant, Balenciaga and Loewe

Dior
I was scrolling through the #Dior feed on Twitter today, as I eagerly awaited the Christian Dior show but did not have much luck in finding any of the looks beforehand. But even before the show had begun I was already in love with this collection. Just from the opulent staging, which was a giant flower dome in the Louvre to the arrival of pop superstar and Dior brand ambassador Rihanna wearing a baby pink coat, the vibes coming from Dior were definitely strong.

And then of course, finally came the actual ready-to-wear collection, which I later viewed on Vogue Runway. Swish black and white looks sashayed down the catwalk, with attention payed to the immaculate tailoring, double breasted blazers and effortless white crop top and skirt combos. The boxy shapes of the sporty jumpers was a nod to the more youthful fans as were the knitwear at the end of the collection while the stripy coats and dresses were bang on trend with the rest of PFW so far.

With Raf Simmons there is always a sense of delicate femininity and beauty about the clothes, and some of these looks today were some of the best he has ever produced for the brand. The sheer dresses in neutral pinks, baby blues and white were stunning layered over lace shorts and tiny tops, the sleek long jackets and midi dresses looked like an instant red carpet favourite and the pointed block heeled shoes added a touch of Parisian chic. All the models wore chunky chokers around their necks, with some carrying the classic Dior handbags in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Raf is a master tailor and this again was a huge part of the collection. Every piece was clean cut, precise, luxurious and so Dior in its aesthetic showing that Raf has really come into his own now, after his first couple of seasons finding his feet at such an iconic fashion brand. This collection was something to be proud of in its simplicity, beauty and majesty and I feel, is one of the best Dior shows under Raf to date. Well worth scrolling through Twitter for!



Balenciaga
And that's all folks. Alexander Wang has presented his last collection for Balenciaga and its off to find a new creative director for the brand (my money is on an unknown rising star). But what an amazing way to go out with a bang. This was such a intricate, delicate, beautiful collection which was all completely in simple, virginal white. From the first look to the last, models who included Edie Campbell and Suki Waterhouse, wore clinical white, which was either draped, twisted, pressed or ruffled to perfection.

 The lovely opening dress, which looked slightly like nightwear, was reminiscent of a pair of heavenly angel wings while the maxi dresses, slouchy trousers, bold necklaces and layers of sheer chiffon were sublime and romantic. Even the models, who wore minimal make up and had their hair tied loosely back looked as though they were sailing effortlessly down the runway, all wearing delicate slippers. Alex Wang wasn't a ground breaker at Balenciaga, nor was he boring or a terrible choice for the luxury fashion house. And this collection proved how talented a designer he is. One of my favourite shows of PFW so far.


Isabel Marant
Classic Marant. That's all I have to say really of Isabel's spring/summer 2016 collection which was ethnic, cultural, defining and so effortlessly stylish that I wish I could literally afford to be a head to toe Marant girl. It was summery, with lace up sandals, harem pants and tiny shorts, but also chic with the laid back use of layering, draping of the fabric, burgundy paisley prints and monochrome colour base. I loved the yellow dungarees, the pinstripe trousers and classic white shirt while the casual, blow-dried hair models captured the Marant spirit perfectly. A lovely collection, and so super stylish.


Loewe
There were lots of interesting things going on in this particular Loewe collection. From the skirts which looked like giant cling film wrapped around models legs and the over sized shirts and trousers, to the crazy purple/yellow combo and a sense of logo mania with 'Loewe' adorned on tops and dresses. There was definitely a lot to take in and admire, as this on the whole was not a bad collection be it all the weird things going on, but one I rather enjoyed. It was stylish in a way in which you wouldn't wear a full head to toe look, but rather bits and pieces like a bomber jacket or a beige leather dress. I liked the bird print on some of the jackets which looked quite cool and admire the overall sleekness of this show from up and coming designer Jonathan Anderson, who is British let me point out...

Thursday, 1 October 2015

Paris Fashion Week: Best in Show

Balmain
Oh how I love Olivier Rousteing! Today's eagerly anticipated Balmain show was nothing short of fabulous, powerful, sexy, strong and majestic all rolled into one. Starting with bright orange suede looks, paired with deeper beige, the classic boxy jacket and skinny trouser combo were immediately introduced, as well as fierce shoulder pads and cinched in waists. Dresses were as clingy and form fitting as ever, with emphasis on leotards worn underneath sheer midi skirts - the kind you can imagine Kim Kardashian spilling out of in a couple of months time. I also loved the sporty punches of colour and geometric pattern.

It was indeed the return of the 'Balmain Army' or in basic talk, the most beautiful, in demand models in the world. Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio, Isabeli Fontana, Costance Jablonski, Binx Wilson, Magdalena Frackowiak, Lindsay Wixon, Joan Smalls, Ginta Lapina, Kendall, Gigi, Bella.... the list literally goes on. But lets just say its quite an impressive ensemble which reflects the current prestige of Balmain in the show-off world of fashion. I loved all the power dressing and ruffled skirts, as well as the amazing mesh dresses and lace up booties. The whole feel of the collection was as slick as the models perfectly gelled back hair which hung in a high ponytail, with plenty of glamour and spice thrown into such a collection which we all know will sell out almost immediately when it hits stores. Another fantastic, energy charged, exhilarating show from Mr Rousteing who is literally turning the fashion world on its head.

  
Lanvin
I have to admit, this was not one of my favourite Lanvin collections, but it still was beautiful. Alber Elbaz, one of the most talented designers in the world, went for lovely prom dresses, jewel colours and chic monochrome looks this season, with plenty of accessories and amazing shoes. All the models rocked cropped hairstyles, while the shirt and trouser combo worked really well for such an elegant, luxury brand. It was a more gritty than previous Lanvin shows, but still had that sparkle. 


Chloe
I always looks forward to the Chloe shows at Paris Fashion Week. They are always light, pretty and wearable with key looks which later turn into much loved go-to editorial pieces. This season, Chloe went a little sporty but still stayed true to the delicate, carefree spirit it is known for. Tracksuits, hoodies,  vests and colours such as red and blue were a kind of grown up sporty chic, which gave way to mini dresses and paisley patterned jackets and trousers. I loved the white and pastel, lace dresses at the end of the collection, which were beautiful and a little 70's with all the silk ruffles.


Dries Van Noten
It was all 1950's glamour but with a 21st century twist at Dries Van Noten. Of course, there were plenty of prints, clashing colours, bold patterns and an added, imperial shine, but above all that, this was actually a very wearable and exciting collection. There was an eastern traveler vibe through all of the silk trousers with kimono style belts and metallic fabrics, as well as a sense of fun with black and white patterned tights, paired with high wedge sandals. If you are indeed planning on traveling the world, be sure to pack Noten somewhere in your suitcase as he understands this look so well.


Maison Martin Margiela
If you are a reader of this blog, you will know that I am one of John Galliano's most biggest fans! I'm not going to delve into the past and get all gushy about his return to fashion, but thank goodness he did. Margiela is a fashion house known for anonymity, new concepts and minimal tailoring, three things which Galliano did perfectly. It was seeped in historical references and beautiful geisha like kimono dresses, while the models wore beehives in their hair, adding a touch of 60s nostalgia. A wonderful collection from an amazing designer.


Anthony Vaccarello
Fresh from his amazing collection for Versus Versace at LFW, Vaccarello kicked things off across the water at Paris Fashion Week with a great collection, packed full of all his sexy classics. Mini dresses, daring flashes of leg, cut-out dresses, super skinny jeans... it was all in there. Models were cool and understated in khaki coloured jackets and short/skirts while I loved the tough love feel to the show. Who doesn't need a bit of Vaccarello magic in their lives?

Monday, 28 September 2015

Milan Fashion Week: Final Day Highlights

Giorgio Armani
In keeping with his Emporio Armani shoe earlier in the week, pink was a key colour for Giorgio Armani at his spring 2016 show. It was preppy, fancy and glamorous with models walking the catwalk with huge sombrero hats and floor length gowns sweeping along behind them. Navy and red made an elegant appearance on jackets and mini dresses, while print and pattern was kept to a minimum with the clean shapes doing all the talking. The draping of the fabric was elegant as were the mini clutch bags and high heeled shoes. Another amazing collection from Mr Armani.

  
Salvatore Ferragamo
This collection was so refreshing and such a nice change from all the maximalist, over the top decadence of the Italian designers at MFW. Salvatore Ferragamo, known for their sleek, clean lines and effortless chic look went for a dressy summer collection which was delicate and beautiful. The show opened with lovely rufelled, strappy tops paired with high waist skirts and trousers. A lot of the necklines were plunging, but were still classy with the sweeping, movement of the dresses and the pleats they created. Again, there were striped capes and shoulder dresses which we now know are a big thing for next spring, but this show just oozed class.

Marni 
Colour blocking and bold shapes were a key feature of this Marni spring 2016 show. Primary colours stood out against black and white, while leather and boxy shapes added a touch of youthfulness. I loved the round sunglasses and the layering of dresses over loose trousers and long sleeved jersey tops. It was slick and powerful with a real sense of fun portrayed through the use of colour. A good show from Marni.


Missoni 
Usually Missoni tend to do the same thing every single season. All the Aztec style prints, chunky knitwear and clashing patterns. But this season, it was reinvented with lots of swimwear pieces, fun crop tops and cardigans thrown casually over shorts and tank tops. Brightly coloured stripes were a main feature of the show, which came vertical and horizontal across all pieces, even on the flat shoes. The bold, blue eye-shadow which the models wore was refreshing and cool as was the loose, long shapes of many of the pieces and effortless trainers they were paired with. I think everyone ought to own a Missoni bikini in their wardrobe! Classic, stylish and definitely a stand out piece on a packed beach!


Trussardi
This collection stood out for me just because of the neutral colours and the shapes. Everything was loose and over-sized with lots of layering of waistcoats, skirts and coats. Trousers were belted on the hip while loose pyjama style coats looked perfect for street style stars who love to focus on clean, minimal pieces. Trussardi presented a mainly white collection, but had bold colours thrown in such as orange and denim blue. The slouchy effect, which I personally really love, is more suited to tall, skinny girls so is quite a tricky trend for the rest of us to pull off, but it certainly worked really well on the catwalk.

'Italia is Love' for Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2016

Dolce and Gabbana. No other fashion house celebrates their heritage quite like them. For their spring/summer 2016 collection, the main focus was on Italy of course, but this time we were taken back to holidays spent in Capri and Rome, seeing the sites and then holidaying on the Amalfi coast, before jetting off to Portofino to soak up the sun. Before the show even started, you could already guess the spirit of the upcoming collection, with fruit stalls set up around the runway and plenty of holiday inspired themes going on. Dolce and Gabbana are so good at setting a scene and making you feel as though you are really in a market in the midst of Siciliy, rather than at Milan Fashion Week. And then of course, the show started...


Colour was everywhere, from the first look all the way to last, which was a lovely 1950's inspired tea dress, which was covered in flowers. It was truly a celebration of tourism and Italy in general, with models wearing amazing dresses covered in prints of Ancient roman sites and beautiful seaside towns. The classic Dolce and Gabbana polka dot print was mingled into suits and onto shorts and crop top combos, complete with decadent embroidery and lovely head-scarfs which reminded me of old, Sicilian women who sit out at the market, selling their fruit and vegetables and chatting into the midday sun.

There were cute headphones, made up of tasseled accessories and plenty of jewels as well, while dresses were covered in sumptuous patterns which looked as though they had come straight off vintage, porcelain china crockery or old mosaics. Reds and yellows, popped against bright blue and lots of floral patterns while Dolce's classic black was a background feature which added a touch of sex appeal, as is always evident at one of their shows.

Black bras, knickerbockers, LBDs and classic suits were all pieces which are renowned for Dolce's aesthetic, but this time there was more of a romantic twist to such sexy garments. Layers of black lace covered in floral embroidery were draped over bras, while intricate black lace skirts came sheer and transparent but as well covered in clever references to Rome. The title of the show, 'Italia is Love' could definitely be felt by all, as the passion and beauty these clothes held were magical and designed with such feeling. Stepano Gabbana explained his thoughts after the show. 'We don't believe in fashion for trends anymore. We want to show emotion. Just enjoy!' And enjoy we most certainly did! In regard to the tourism theme which ran throughout the collection, Gabbana sang the praise of his country which he deeply loves and respects. 'This is where the first boutiques came from. We think it was the beginning of Italian fashion. And it was because foreigners saw it and liked it. Sometimes Italians don't appreciate all the things we have here!'

Selfies were also a big part of this show, which is no surprise seeing as this particular brand is very much into social media and the tech savvy youth of today. If you follow Stepano Gabbana on Instagram, you'll know what I mean! Models were encouraged to take selfies as they took a turn on the catwalk, which were then instantly uploaded and displayed upon screens along the runway. It was fun and a completely new concept which the fashion press and the models enjoyed immensely. Through all the selfie mania, the clothes still stood out as they were just so impossible to ignore. I loved the vintage, 50's feel and the amazing silk,chiffon maxi dress which was paired with a headscarf and cats-eye sunglasses as well as the beautiful shift dresses covered in images of the Virgin Mary and Jesus - D&G remain firms Catholics in faith. The jumpsuits were amazing as were the embellished gold, crowns which sat nobly atop models' heads. It was full of beauty.

The finale of every Dolce show is always a grand spectacle and this time all 92 models came pouring out onto the runway, in similar mini dresses, smiling and walking in unison. It was so fun and so wonderful to watch, with all the colours and all the majesty these clothes created all merged together. You cannot fault the amount of time and dedication Domenico Dolce and Stepano Gabbana put into the collections, seeing as other designers only produce 30 to 40 runway looks a season. This duo go above and beyond every time. They will always be my favourite designers and I continue to feel an overwhelming sense of pride as they took their final bow at the end of the show. Long live the magic, wonder and beauty of Dolce and Gabbana.

Watch the amazing show here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1485NceTfWo



Saturday, 26 September 2015

MFW: Bottega Veneta, Dsquared2, Cavalli and more!

Dsquared2
This was a celebration of colour at Dsquared with neon bright's, fun  accessories and 80s nostalgia. It was a little tribal in some places and then back to the 1980's heyday with funky patterned leggings, loud mini skirts and tiny bikinis perfect for the summer. As always with Dsquared, you  no you're basically being invited to a huge party and their collections never fail to disappoint those fans who love all things glamourous and eccentric, such as those puffy skirts made from duchess satin in bold pink and blue. A really great show which put a smile on my face. And my fav model Alessandra Ambrosio made an appearance in a blue and pink striped mini dress!



Jil Sander
I am not a big fan of Jill Sander and never have been even when the great Raf Simmons was creative director of the brand.  This season again played with a very minimal colour pallet in neutral tones and beiges, with each model wearing a hat which at first reminded me of classic Vietnam dress - not sure if it was meant to be taken that way! I don't really know what to say about this show as I don't pay much attention to boring fashion, but included it just because it's such a major fashion brand at MFW, and I'm sure there are plenty of Jil fans out there.


Roberto Cavalli
This was the first  Roberto Cavalli collection under the new creative direction of Peter Dundas, previously the king of prints at Emilio Pucci. Anything that this genius of a designer touches seems to just instantly be a smash hit, and his debut for Roberto Cavalli has only received positive feedback so far. I loved it, and I'm sure Mr Cavalli himself will be so too. It was very 80s with leopard print, boxy jackets and tie-dye mini dressed and also super feminine, with floaty numbers in pastel colours and plenty of material trailing behind the models as they walked. I loved the rufells and soft vibe of the show, even though it has a tough, sexy edge that only Dundas can create. 



Bottega Veneta 
I absolutely loved this show! And also the fact that a number of the old supermodels featured in it, such as Isabelli Fontana, Carmen Pedaru, Kasia Struss and Joan Smalls. Thomas Maier knows how to make a women feel powerful, strong and stylish as well as beautiful and this collection did exactly that. The khaki shades and lovely neutral tones added glamour and sophistication as did the fiery leopard print and the super cool bomber jackets. For Bottega it was quite youthful but yet so glamorous. The creasing in the fabrics were divine and the whole styling of the show was really spot on.

Friday, 25 September 2015

Milan Fashion Week: Day 3 Highlights

Versace
Yes, this was Donatella at her finest. From the first looks worn by supermodel Raquel Zimmermann to the last, closed by Russian model Natasha Poly, this was a show which was classic Versace in every possible way. All short, mini dresses, hot mini skirts and plenty of leopard print. I loved everything about this show, which featured some of my favourite models such as Anna Ewers, Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls and Hanne Gaby Odiele. From the military inspired khaki looks at the beginning of the show to the swirly, 80's style dresses at the end.

I loved the big belts which cinched in already tiny waists and the strappy sandals, which some models wore with socks, and came creepy up past the ankle in neon yellow, orange and green as well as the bomber jackets in shiny metallic. It was so glossy, even though some may have the cheek to call it tacky. The mini dresses at the end of the show were extremely short and were covered in over-sized, green and yellow leopard and peacock prints. There was just a lot of leg on show, but then what's Versace without a bit of sexy sass? It was one of the best Versace collections I have seen for a while, with plenty of attitude and sexy, structured pieces. A clear highlight from Milan Fashion Week from an absolutely legendary designer: the incredible Donatella Versace.


Emporio Armani
Soft summer sunsets and dusky walks along a deserted beach sprang to mind while watching the Emporio Armani spring/summer 2016 show. All the beautiful colours (mainly pink) romantically merged in together while the sweeping shapes and elegant lines were classic Armani tailoring. It was slouchy, but never loosing the quintessential style the Milanese are known for, with simple t-shirts paired with smart blazers and organza skirts came layered bold necklaces. It was sublime and seamlessly constructed, with stripes again playing a part in the collection. At least we know that stripes will be a thing for next season now. A wonderful show for a man celebrating 40 years in the business.


Etro
I absolutely love this brand, in what seems to be a love affair which grows stronger and stronger each season. Today, Etro was romantic, soft and a little boho in what was a collection which consisted of only the most beautiful, delicate and pretty pieces. I loved the long, flowing floral maxi dresses with 70's gypsy style detailing as well as the lovely colour scheme of purple, burgundy, blue and beige. These shades were muted and elegant; I can imagine the perfect Etro customer wearing such pieces while holidaying in the French Riviera, lounging on their yacht anchored out at sea. Definitely one of my favourite shows, just because if I was rich enough I would snap everything up straight away!

  
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini 
Reminiscent of the peasant girl beauty of Alberta Ferreti and Valentino, this show by Lorenzo Serafini was lovely and pretty. The clothes which consisted of silk white shirts, sheer layers of black lace gowns, ruffled gowns which bared the legs, white shorts and plenty of blue paired with less bold colours. I loved the dungarees and the white midi dresses which came in small, intricate patterns and cinched in waists. And with supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio closing the show wearing a black, strapped silk dress and a pair of black patent boots, this collection was a huge success.

  
Blumarine
I always feel that Blumarine and their sister label, Bluegirl tend to go quite unnoticed on the international fashion scene, even though they are a respected brand which have been going for quite a while. I enjoyed their show today, which was soft in the use of pastel colours but also harsh in their dramatic black capes, sheer dresses and coats. I loved the floral embellishment on dresses as well as the prints on skirts and tops, which featured soft stripes and graphic roses in an array of bright colours. The transparent chiffon skirts which were covered in clever embroidery were so pretty as were the minimally constructed jackets with two large pockets on the front. A lovely show.

  
Sportmax
Punchy, bold, bright, on point... I could go on forever with complimentary words, but this collection from Sportmax was so sleek and sharp that it was quite impossible to ignore. Black and white were paired with bold blues, yellows and oranges, with soft patent leather playing a big part on coats, shirts and skirts.  It was graphic in that not a spot was out of place and everything was cut to such a precise angle that it did make quite a statement, reminding me a little of the sharpness of Fendi. I loved the sleekness of the show, it was rich and luxurious and reminded me a little bit of a paint palette in how organised and neat the colours and over-sized shapes were. The only thing I wasn't too keen on was the shoes which were so clunky and big that they didn't go with the whole look of the clothes. But nevertheless, I actually preferred this show to MaxMara yesterday - but don't tell anyone!