There are fashion shows and then there are Chanel fashion
shows. Opulent, beautifully tailored and the 'big one' at Paris fashion week. The show that creates as
much anticipation as the tense throng of journalists outside the Lindo Wing at
St Mary's Paddington while the Duchess of Cambridge gave birth. Chanel sure
does bring in the fashion crowds. The difference being one man. The immaculately
dressed, silver haired, always hidden behind large black sunglasses man who
claims that he would marry his cat if he could (yes, really!) Guessed who it is
yet? Karl Lagerfeld. A genius practically engraved into the history books of
the house of Chanel. A creative genius whose Chanel shows just
keep getting bigger and better.
The truth is that Chanel is the mother of all fashion
houses; a leader of trends, a worldwide power base and a major boost to the fashion
economy. Everyone waits for the Chanel show during the last exhausting days of Paris fashion week. What
will Lagerfeld conjure up this time? What huge, completely over the top set
will the Chanel models strut themselves down? Chanel is the fashion attraction,
like Buckingham palace is THE tourist attraction in London; the place everyone wants to see. It seems strange that this house was started over 100 years ago, by a woman who set out to revolutionise womenswear and change the way in which we as women saw ourselves. Femininity in menswear. Could it be possible? To Gabrielle Coco Chanel it certainly was. Ladies and gentleman
let me properly introduce you to Chanel....
Gabrielle Coco Chanel started her fashion business in millinery, hats to be exact, all the way back in 1910. A star in the making, Coco soon drew
in the rich, influential ladies in Paris,
who swarmed to her shop to grab themselves the latest Chanel hat. Branching out
into womenswear during the First World War, she revolutionised fashion by
scraping the formal, tight corset and brought in a more masculine form of
dress. Men's jackets, light, jersey fabrics, straw hats and even, God forbid,
allowing women to wear trousers, Chanel was changing the way women dressed. She
introduced the now iconic tweed suit, those iconic pearl necklaces, the 2.5mm patent handbag
and the sensational Chanel No 5 perfume, which Marilyn Monroe was quoted as
saying was all she wore to bed... Coco had
established herself in the fashion industry, previously dominated by men like
Paul Poiret and Pierre Balmain. She was a woman on a mission and she was stopping for no one, especially not for her male competition.
After loosing sales during the Second World War, Chanel shut
up shop leaving Christian Dior free to dominate women's fashion throughout the
1950's with his 'new look'. However, Coco made
her return in 1954, ready to make a mark on the industry once more, against
Dior, who had brought back the corset and full skirt that Chanel fought so hard
to remove from womens wardrobes. She began work on her new collection, ready to reclaim her fashion throne.
However, the collection was not received so well by the French who
felt her association with the Nazi’s had damaged her reputation. She continued to remain a favourite with her American and British audiences, which Karl Lagerfeld recently reminded us after showing the Chanel Metiers d'Art collection in Dallas, Texas. America remained a crucial part of Chanel's sales. After a triumphant return and a major fashion house in her
name, Chanel died in The Hotel Ritz, January 10th in Paris 1971. That day the
world lost an icon; a founding mother of the new woman and a trend setter that
gained respect from everyone from Marlene Dietrich to Winston Churchill.
Karl Lagerfeld today still pays huge homage to Coco in each and every one of his fashion shows, each
time adding a special twist that only Karl can produce. One season we are in a
barnyard with light, airy dresses in the most beautiful silks, with Lily Allen
popping out of a bale of hay. The next, we are in the gardens of Versailles, with heavy
influences to Marie Antoinette done the Lagerfeld way.
To be brutally honest, it doesn't matter where the
setting, whether it be an underwater kingdom or around a gigantic globe,
Lagerfeld always delivers the hottest trends, gorgeous accessories and
classic pieces that could have belonged to your grandmother and still be handed
down to your grandchildren. A huge hoola - hooped handbag was certainly the
talk of fashion land after the Spring Summer 2013 show as was the Lego inspired
clutch bag which has been sported by numerous celebrities including Rita Ora
and Diane Kruger. The 2.55mm bag is still a best seller as are the Chanel pearl
earrings and suit ensembles which come in a range of delicate colours from
pastel blue to dramatic black. Chanel has something for everyone. From children
to grandparents, minimalists to maximalists, hippies to traditionalists,
Americans to the growing Asian market. An iconic brand. An icon heritage. Long
live the legendary Karl Lagerfeld. Long live the house of Chanel.
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