Tuesday, 28 October 2014

Dior's Iconic 'New Look'

It defined style and changed the history of fashion: the iconic Dior 'New Look.' After the Second World War and the couture scandal in Paris, people were in desperate need of a new look, quite literally. Christian Dior who had previously worked at couturier Lucien Lelong's fashion house was the man to reinvent fashion and played on a new feminine silhouette.

It was Chanel who abolished the corset and brought in a more masculine form of dress by using the flexible jersey material favoured by men. Yet Dior wanted to make women feel feminine and sexy again, especially after the depressing war years. In February 1947, he launched his iconic collection in Paris showing dresses that highlighted the waist and upper body beautifully. Women were amazed and immediately wanted this new kind of dress which allowed skirts to billow romantically out at the waist. It was pretty yet revolutionary. Harpers Bazaar's Carmel Snow coined the phrase 'New Look,' in her monthly magazine column and established the term that would define Dior's design aesthetic.

From actresses like Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor and Lauren Bacall to the everyday women living in cities; the Dior look was copied by mass production companies as well as magazines who couldn't get enough of it. It brought back femininity, romance and most importantly Fashion! Paris was re-established as the most stylish city in the world and the press from America and Britain once again were lured back to the biannual fashion weeks. Dior sadly died 10 years later, even though his impact on fashion was one of greatness and importance. Long live the 'New Look.'

Wednesday, 22 October 2014

Heaven Gains Another Star: Oscar de la Renta

Yesterday morning when I turned on the news, the last thing I expected to hear was that the legendary designer, Oscar de la Renta, had passed away. After being diagnosed with cancer in 2006, de la Renta died yesterday peacefully at his home at the age of 82. It is desperately sad that such a kind, gracious man has left our lives as the designer we knew him as.

He was a hot favourite at New York Fashion Week, with model of the moment Karlie Kloss always closing his shows while he was the go-to designer for red carpet fashion, whether it be the Oscars or the Grammys. De la Renta has dressed some of the most famous women in the world, including Jackie Kennedy, Princess Diana and Michelle Obama while celebrities Cameron Diaz, Charlize Theron and Jennifer Lopez have all donned one of his dresses over the years. And the glowing tributes have just been pouring in for him, from the likes of Taylor Swift, Anna Wintour, Jennifer Lawrence and Amal Clooney - whom he designed her amazing wedding dress.

Oscar de la Renta's last spring/summer collection presented last month at NYFW, was a pretty display of pastel coloured gowns and ornate floral patterns. He was known for his Fairytale, couture like clothes that made a woman feel extra special and fabulous. And that's how he will always be remembered: as a talented man who spent his life dedicated to the fashion industry. Former Nina Ricci designer, Peter Copping, has been named as the new creative director of de la Renta - a match which suits this iconic fashion house beautifully as Copping knows a thing or two about beautiful clothes. It will be exciting to see his effect at the house of de la Renta, but the man himself will be surely missed.

Take a look at some of the most memorable moments of Oscar de la Renta's extraordinary career and the dresses which defined his immaculate style.



Wednesday, 15 October 2014

The New Chanel No5

Who remembers the iconic 2004 Chanel No5 commercial starring Nicole Kidman? She ran through the streets of Paris in a huge, pink feathered ball gown and then hid away from the celebrity life that was engulfing her. And that beautiful ending which always gives me goosebumps - walking up the red carpet with swarms of paparazzi on either side, Kidman looks back over her shoulder and smiles. That's the Chanel no5 woman.

Now, 10 years later acclaimed director Baz Luhrmann is back with another ad featuring Brazilian supermodel Gisele. Karl Lagerfeld, Anna Wintour and the woman of the moment, Gisele were all present last night at the premiere of the short movie as well as Baz himself. 'Gisele has a can-do attitude and an incredible positive energy. I would have dialled up or dialled down the amount of acting required in the ad depending upon what she brought and what she could do - and as you can see I've dialled it up,' stated the visionary director. Gisele looks amazing throughout the ad, as she goes about her normal life, but with some Chanel magic. From the school run to surfing the waves, the girl who wears Chanel no5 can do absolutely anything!

The power of perfumes and the advertisements they require are fundamental to a fashion house. Without a successful perfume, fashion brands would just crash and burn; it's the perfumes that bring in the money. Let's say it costs £4 to make the famous Gucci Guilty perfume. Sell that at £63 and Gucci have already made a gigantic profit. And that goes for all the fashion brands, whether that be Paco Rabbane, Chloe, Marc Jacobs or Chanel. Perfumes are a way in which normal, everyday consumers like you and me can buy a slice of designer luxury. Knowing that you're wearing a Stella McCartney scent is a lot more attractive and desirable than spraying yourself every morning with a Boots floral eau de parfum! We are brand snobs and therefore the way in which perfumes are advertised to us are so important. They represent millions of pounds worth of profit and allow you to be entranced by the romantic and beautiful world a particular fashion house is trying to portray. So Lurhemmn for Chanel, is a canny and clever move by the powers at be of Chanel; they know that a successful campaign will bring in the cash!

To quote Jessie J, it's not all about money though! Some of us, like myself, just love watching and looking at exquisite ad campaigns, full of wonderful scenery, spellbinding cinematography and usually a very beautiful woman - like Gisele. That's another thing, have you ever seen an ugly model fronting a perfume ad? No, didn't think so. We are obsessed with beauty and perfection and I believe the next Chanel commercial will have all the Fairytale elements listed above.

Watch the amazing new Chanel No5 ad now...

Tuesday, 7 October 2014

Galliano - A Fallen Star on the Rise


Yes. I know it's not breaking news now but I just haven't had the chance to write about it! If you're a follower of fashion, a keen style enthusiast or indeed a John Galliano fan, you would have heard the news that this incredible designer is to become the new creative director at Maison Martin Margiela. It's a shock and a surprise that Galliano will be working at this particular fashion house, known for a completely different design aesthetic, but it will defiantly something to look forward to in the future.

John Galliano, originally from Gibraltar in Spain, was the golden design child of the late 80's and 90's, changing the face of fashion with his flamboyant and intricate designs. Taking inspiration from the French Revolution and English culture/history, his clothes were worthy enough to display in the V&A as well as parade on the international catwalks. After setting up his own fashion house, he joined Givenchy as chief designer before moving to fellow LVMH group brand, Dior. From 1997 onwards, he transformed this iconic Parisian house and made it cool again with a cult following of singers, actresses and adoring fans. From the famous Charlize Theron 'J'Adore' perfume ad to the amazing couture shows which rivaled those of Chanel, Galliano always put on a show for us and delighted editors, stylists and journalists alike with his creativity.

However, this Fairytale world of Galliano came crumbling down in 2011, when he was caught using anti-Semitic language to fellow customers in a Parisian cafe. Under the influence of alcohol, Galliano's actions were recoded and released all over the internet causing a fierce backlash and huge controversy for Dior. After a very public turmoil of events, he was fired from Dior and sought help in rehab centres in America. Since then, he has kept a very low profile, completely out of the radar of fashion and the cruel world it entails. There are even conspiracy rumors that Galliano was set up by LVMH as a way to get rid of him and bring in current designer Raf Simmons... But that doesn't change the words that came out of Galliano's mouth and language like that cannot be justified.

Now, he's back! I am so excited for him to rejoin Paris Fashion Week as a creative genius because, the man can design like no other. His Dior womenswear collections were incredible and the best shows (hands down!) at PFW. Everything he touched at Dior was just spectacular and his talent has been very much missed, especially by me! He was my favourite designer for so long, so much so that I even dedicated a paragraph of my university Personal Statement to him!

Yet, is this the right move for him? Maison Martin Margiela is a fashion house know for it's anonymity, privacy and minimalist designs that break and challenge the rules of fashion. When Margiela himself designed for his brand, the shows were always futuristic, technical and raw with an edge like no other. While he looked to the future, Galliano looks to the past for inspiration which could prove to be a problem for him. Yet no doubt he will adapt and learn the archives of Margeila, change the status of the house and make it his own as well as serve the faithful customers that Martin Margiela built up over the years. This is what I love about fashion, you never know what's going to happen next, especially when Mr John Galliano is involved!