Wow! That was the only word I could utter after seeing the looks from the Givenchy spring/summer 2016 show this morning. All black and white, all beautifully mysterious, surreal and elegant, this show was indeed captivating and incredible. Another fantastic triumph for creative director Ricardo Tisci, who celebrates 10 years at the brand this year!I was surprised that Givenchy had decided to show during New York Fashion Week this season. Usually this heritage brand is one of the main attractions at the Paris collections and for me doesn't entirely fit into the whole commercial excitement surrounding the much more cool New York scene. But nevertheless, Tisci with his band of famous models including Joan Smalls, Kendall Jenner and Raquel Zimmermann took to the stage yesterday in style. With the likes of Nicki Minaj, Julia Roberts, Liv Tyler, Jennifer Hudson, Kanye West and Alexander Wang all sitting front row, the excitement was already at fever pitch before the show even began! But it was Tisci who remained the real star of this show.
On a dark, dingy catwalk complete with a sinister set of steps (which Candice Swanepoel unfortunately took a tumble down) the show began. White lace draped a-symmetrically and also in elegant pleats were adorned on cocktail dresses with tight skirts giving way at the knee, falling like a cascading fountain of fabric. So delicate and intricate was the lace patterns on shirts and slip dresses, one could be mistaken for them being more of a sultry form of nightwear rather than a summer dresses to wear in the daytime. It was underwear as over-wear at its finest, all in just two simple shades - black and white. Or perhaps a scantily clad bride, dressed head to toe in Givenchy.
As models walked quickly and lightly down the runway to the sound of Tibetan monks chanting, their hair slicked back in a stylish middle parting and running down their back, the show took a turn towards more of a couture collection. Joan Smalls entered in a feathered, strapless black velvet gown, flowing across the floor as long, sweeping white dresses adorned in jewels and sequins took a turn after her. In classic Tisci fashion, material was crossed across the body, layered loosely but still keeping an elegant evening shape with models wearing the now iconic face masks which were so popular with the brand last season. One form fitting dress, looked as though it was covered in beige scales with the model wearing it a reptile moving in jerky, fast motions. It was incredible and resembled more Haute Couture than ready-to-wear.
Quiet a few male models took to the catwalk too, wearing sharp black and pristine white tuxedos and fitted suits as the girls swept past them in haunting outfits. Necklaces played a huge part too. Most looks were accompanied with round, crystal necklaces sitting on the collar bone or with long styles hanging around the neck adding to the outfit.
The collection, consisting of over 80 looks, soon ended with supermodel Zimmermann wearing a white, transparent shift dress. And as Tisci came out to take his final bow, the audience, led by the 'ice queen' herself, Anna Wintour, jumped to their feet in rapturous applause. The fashion press very rarely give a standing ovation, in fact the last time I can remember was for Marc Jacobs' last collection for Louis Vuitton in 2013. That's when you knew that this Givenchy ss2016 was incredibly, incredibly amazing and it wasn't just us lonely individuals at home watching the show through their phones that felt a part of this fashion symbolic moment.
It's only been a few days in to the season and already I've got my favourite show confirmed. I pity all the other designers who now have to follow in Givenchy's footsteps.
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