Are women over the age of 50 forgotten in fashion?
Eleanor Roosevelt once said, ‘beautiful
young people are accidents of nature, but beautiful old people are works of
art.’ One could argue that Eleanor herself was one of those ‘beautiful old people’ she spoke about so
tenderly; an older lady who grew more beautiful with age. Jump forward to the
21st century, and women over the age of 50 seem to be culturally
invisible when it comes to fashion.From magazine front covers and fashion
trends to advertising campaigns and the high street, rarely do older women
appear in mainstream fashion. So, are women over the age of 50 past their
sell-by date?
There is of course the ridiculous notion that women over 50 spend
their lives like a Real Housewife of
Beverly Hills, keeping themselves busy running pointless errands - hardly
women interested in fashion. Fashion
designer Donatella Versace is in agreement when it comes to her typical older
customers, “You
think old people - ladies who stay at home all day and drink tea. It’s not at
all like this.” And she is right. According to a recent study by The Daily Mirror, the over 50s
market spend a staggering £6.7 billion a year on womenswear, and are now the
fastest growing fashion sector in the country. Yet they are practically ignored
when it comes to the great British high street.
For example, very rarely do you find an older women shopping for a
pair of jeans in stores such as H&M, Topshop and Urban Outfitters. These
shops cater to a much younger, stylish customer and targeting an older category
would just spoil their image. Marks and Spencer is one of the few major high
street stores which champions the older women, not only
with their clothes but also through their savvy TV commercials and stylish ad
campaigns, usually featuring Twiggy, aimed at women of any ages.
Yet, fashion did not always exclude mature women. For the first
half of the 20th century, older woman were considered the most
fashionable set in society. It was ladies, aged 40 and over who brought Haute Couture from the finest fashion
houses, and never left their homes without a matching hat and gloves. Society
women such as Marella Agnelli and Jackie Onassis were the style icons of their
day - their age not even a consideration in terms of fashion. However, much has
changed since the glory days of couture,
with current fashion houses such as Elie Saab and Giambattista Valli, aiming
their collections at a significantly younger customer. Even the traditional customers of couture have been dropped in favour of
a younger woman.
The invisibility of women over 50 doesn’t only apply to fashion,
but other aspects of our culture too. For example the never ending quest of
Hollywood actresses to discover the sacred fountain of youth. Influential
women, with huge media followings such as Nicole Kidman, Demi Moore, Cher and
Madonna, who can you believe is almost 60, have all gone to extreme lengths,
involving extensive Botox and cosmetic surgery, to literally 'turn back time' and look like their 20 year old
selves again. But is there really anything to be ashamed of in growing old
gracefully?
Even Instagram, a social media platform normally associated with
the selfie mad younger generation, has a number of older users who have made
quite a name for themselves through their street style posts. Dorrie Jacobson,
who runs the @SeniorStyleBible has amassed a huge following with her quirky
sense of fashion as has Judith, who posts images of her impressive wardrobe on
her page @StyleCrone. It comes as an afterthought that both of these women are
in their 70s. There are also plenty of strong women working in the fashion
industry now. Editors such as Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld are both in their
60s and yet have such a formidable voice in society, while entrepreneurs like
Natalie Massenet, 50, show no signs of slowing down.
Nevertheless, psychologist Dr Lauren Rosewarne discovered in a
study at the University of Melbourne, that less than 4% of women on advertising
billboards are aged over 30.A shocking statistic which is not that difficult to
disbelieve.It seems farcical that in 1992, Isabella Rossellini, who had just
turned 40, was dropped by Lancome for being ‘too old,’ when today actresses
Helen Mirren,70, and Andie MacDowell,57, are celebrated L’Oreal ambassadors,
regardless of their age.
Yet this year, the charming older women was celebrated rather than
squandered amongst designers. Celine
featured the 80 year old writer Joan Didion for their spring/summer 2015
campaign, sending out a strong message that beauty is indeed eternal. Dolce and Gabbana featured a group of
beautiful grandmothers in their summer campaign while legendary folk singer
Joni Mitchell, 71, was the striking face of Saint
Laurent Paris. A couple of years ago it would have been out of the question to make model Monica Bellucci a 'Bond Girl' at the grand old age of 51. But now it has been embraced as something totally new and inspiring for the James Bond film franchise.
Perhaps, the fashion industry is finally setting out to challenge
that awkward ‘grey area’ that has until now been an ignored and cleverly avoided
issue. Let me know your views.