Thursday, 24 March 2016

Dancing on Air with Ginger Rogers...

It is a truth universally acknowledged that Ginger Rogers was one of the greatest dancers of the 20th century, perhaps even of all time. The way she glided across the dance floor with Fred Astaire in classics such as Top Hat and Swing Time was simply magical. And who could forget, Shall we Dance, another timeless movie, packed full of witty one liners, beautiful dance routines and of course, that song - 'Lets call the whole thing off.'

Yet, it wasn't only her dancing which was simply sublime, but her impeccable acting and singing heralded Ginger Rogers as the greatest actress of the 1930s. I admit I haven’t seen all of Ginger's movies, but the ones I have seen (Bachelor Mother, anyone?) are easy going, rather funny, elegant films which are perfect for the whole family to enjoy. On a fashion point of view, the costumes she wore in her movies are another amazing matter altogether. The layers of duchess satin sweeping over the floor, the feathery hems of heavy silk dresses cascading around her feet and the puffy shouldered tops all mirrored her routines perfectly. Even when she was not dancing, there is no denying that Ginger was ever stylish in a smart 40s suit complete with matching hat and gloves.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Ginger Rogers, let me give you a brief history. Virginia Katherine McMath was born on July 16th, 1911 Missouri, of Scottish, Welsh and English heritage. As you can see, she wasn't always Ginger Rogers, neither was it the name Hollywood christened her with as is usually the case with these actresses. Instead ‘Ginga’ developed as a nickname throughout her childhood, and her surname Rogers came about when her mother remarried to a certain Mr Rogers. Anyway, her mother was a famous scriptwriter for a large Hollywood production company, and a young Ginger found herself absorbed into that world.

She found herself dancing at a young age, and toured around America with her mother performing in various dance competitions. It wasn't until 1930 when Hollywood took notice of her, with Paramount offering the 19 year old a seven year contract. A few years later, the 1933 movie 42nd Street won Ginger much critical acclaim, and from then on Fred found Ginger, starring with Fred Astaire in 10 movies until 1939. This partnership practically saved the Fox studios through the great depression years, with eager cinema goers flocking to see two of the greatest dancers on the big screen. "All the girls I ever danced with thought they couldn't do it, but of course they could. So they always cried. All except Ginger. No no, Ginger never cried," Astaire once said of his famous partner, even though it’s no secret that he was particular hard on Ginger, with him insisting that she rehearse dance routines until her feet were bleeding.

Astaire wasn’t the only great she shared the silver screen with. Katherine Hepburn, James Stewart, David Niven, Doris Day and Cary Grant were just some of her big co-stars, as well as Marilyn Monroe who she starred with twice, in Monkey Business and We're not Married. She won an Oscar too, for her role in Kitty Foyle, as well as the status of one of the greatest dancers who graced the world with her talent. She died aged 83 from a heart attack.

Ginger Rogers represents class and elegance, and her costumes were simply to die for. Usually designed by the legendary fashion designer Edith Head, they consisted of bias cut draped gowns, halter neck chiffon tops with matching beautiful skirts, and even a few trouser suits! With her hair in classic curls, dark red lipstick and her ivory skin, Rogers shimmered on the stage, with her most famous dress being the feathered gown she wore in Top Hat. The layers of feathers were so heavy, it was almost impossible to dance in. And then there was that mink dress which caused outrage in the midst of the depression. From the decadent jewels to the painted fingernails, she always impressed on an off the screen, a true Hollywood icon.

Thursday, 17 March 2016

#TBT: Dolce's Idyllic Italian Summer

The mayhem of fashion weeks has finally died down and all is back to normal in terms of fashion. As the weather gets slightly better (not much better, but I'm trying to be positive here!) I wanted to draw attention to one of my favourite ever shows by two of the most talented men in fashion - Dolce and Gabbana. I remember watching this show and just falling in love with all the beautiful lace paneled pieces, summery mini dresses, flashes of leopard print and the overall carefree spirit of the collection. And lets not get started on the role callof famous models, back in the day whenmodels were models and not just celebrities. Lindsay Wixon, Joan Smalls, Natasha Poly, Lily Donaldson, Karlie Kloss, Constance Jablonski, Alessandra Ambrosio and Izabel Goulart.. the list literally goes on. The styling was also fantastic in this show, with all the earrings, necklaces and shoes matching the total look perfectly.

Inspired by a traditional Italian wedding, in Dolce's spring/summer 2016 show, most of the pieces were white, pure and virginal. Then you had the dramatic black corsets and the sexy cut out dresses which juxtaposed the rest of the collection. Floral embroidery sewn into lace skirts looked amazing, as did the encrusted crop tops and matching midi skirts. Every piece was absolutely exquisite and perfectly reflected how I view a classic Mediterranean summer holiday. Enjoy and dream of happy summer days to come...

Wednesday, 9 March 2016

Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu round up PFW

Louis Vuitton 
What Nicholas Ghesquiere has done for Vuitton is amazing. He took off right from where Marc Jacobs left the fashion house and completely made it his own. For any fashion fan it's obvious to spot a Louis Vuitton look a mile away, and credit must go to Nicholas. For fall 2016, it had to be his best show yet. From all the prints, skinny leather trousers and super cool costs to the sporty layering cut out dresses over longer skirts; there was so much going on. I loved the use of red against black and all the vertical line detailing on silk shirts and coats. A fabulous way to finish off fashion week. 


Miu Miu
Usually I'm not a huge fan of Miu Miu, Prada's younger more chic sister label. But this show was full of so many amazing pieces that I completely fell in love with it. From the fur cuffed parka work by Kendall Jenner to the beautiful black dresses at the end of the show, there was a whole wardrobe of different choices in so many different colours. Part of the show felt very summery with cotton white mini dresses paired with sandals, yet you had large overcoats which nodded to the winter season. Joan Smalls wore a lovely lemon cardigan and dare I say it, granny skirt! Quite a few of the looks looked as though they had been raised from older grandparents wardrobes!! There was an all star cast - Bella and Gigi Hadid, Irina Shayk, Adriana Lima, Lara Stone, Joan Smalls and of course, Kendall. A really great show. 






Tuesday, 8 March 2016

PFW: Chanel and Valentino lead the way...

 
 
Chanel
I really enjoyed this Chanel show. For autumn/winter, Karl Lagerfeld took things back to basics, without all the eccentric catwalk sets, gimmicks and celebrity fanfare we have come to expect from Chanel. Models weren't walking around a supermarket or emerging out of an underwater kingdom, instead the likes of Kendall Jenner, Lindsay Wixon, Gigi Hadid and Anja Rubik just simply walked down a plain white runway. All emphasis was placed on the clothes which were classic Chanel in every way. There were very strong equestrian themes throughout with all the leather boots, flat top hats, gloves and strings of pearls. The Chanel suit was given a fun make over in hot pink and denim blue, yet the simplicity of beige and monochrome helped add some normanilty to what was a steady show.
 
The puffa jacket made an appearance as did a long khaki coat - 2 trends which have popped up at most PFW shows, while Lagerfeld looked back to the brands heritage around the 1930s with formal suiting and pretty shift dresses, all in classic tweed. I loved the layered silk dresses at the end of the show which came with black collars and belts cinching in the wasit. I also loved the contemporary feel of the whole show, as it was such a breath of fresh air from a very established brand.
Valentino
This wasn't one of my favourite Valentino shows (I am still in love with their Couture show from last year) but it was still beautiful. When Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paulo Piccolo emerged onto the catwalk to take a bow at the end of the show, they were both beaming with happiness. And with good reason too. These designers know how to do elegance, with dresses which look amazing on and off the runway. I loved the nude, sheer pieces towards the end of the show as they radiated elegance.

Jewels came encrusted onto strappy shift dresses, halter necked chiffon gowns looked as light as a feather while layers of black net sweeping the floor on other gowns. This ending was a stark contrast with the first looks of the collection which were all black and very formal, with knitwear and boxy coats making a statement. A bright yellow dress in the middle of the show broke things up a little bit while the looks that followed just kept getting more and more decadent.

Monday, 7 March 2016

Givenchy, Hermes, Saint Laurent and more today at PFW

Saint Laurent
Oh what a show by Hedi Slimane. Many described this fall 2016 collection as Saint Laurent haute couture, with the bold shoulders, high level of detail and pure 80s references shining through in what was a very glamorous show. From the dramatic eye make up to the super mini skirts, OTT shoulder pads and splashes of sequins, Slimane pulled together pieces from his past Saint Laurent collections and referenced the brand circa the 1980s. This collection was immense and different, with models posing for photos on a large staircase rather than at the end of a catwalk. If this was Hedi's last offering for Saint Laurent, what a show it was.
Sonia Rykiel
There was so much in this Sonia Rykiel collection which caught my eye. I have to admit, everything was very much to my tastes and I can imagine to the tastes of numerous Sonia fans too. First of all, the fur was amazing whether it was on large collars, sleeves, pockets or even an oversized furry hat. Pretty 70s tea dresses were paired with patent leather boots, layering was used under jackets and silk shirts tied with a pussy bow at the neckline were extremely stylish. I loved the burgundy colours as well as the soft buttery yellow and snakeskin. They even had model of the moment Gigi Hadid closing the show, as well as veteran model Arizona Muse making an appearance.
Hermes
Fluid lines, the classic midi skirt, neutral tones and minimal tailoring all led the way this evening at Hermes. With such a cult following, Hermes have once again kept many of their eager clients happy, with a collection which looked and felt luxurious in every way. Camel pleat dresses opened the show along with structured white blazers and matching cigarette pants following. Burgundy, khaki and navy blue were used, but in such a subtle way that it felt effortless. I loved the shiny leather boots which came in a variety of colours as well as the high roll neck dresses which were form fitting and elegant.

Giambattista Valli
When it comes to pretty, look no further than Valli. This designer brand have girly, beautiful dresses fully covered, and their fall 2016 show was packed full of feminine, lady like creations. I loved the high neck floral chokers which gave way to flowing white silk skirts, gathered in at the waist as well as the almost knee high black strap court shoes. Ruffles and frills looked like they're here to stay another season, with Valli featuring the details on skirts and sleeves, while the wonderful red dress near the end of the show was covered in carefully cut little frills.
Givenchy
I forgot to feature Givenchy's show on yesterdays blog post, as it was Mothers Day and I was unfortunately pre-occupied with various other things. But what a show it was! With Kanye West, Kris Jenner, Bradley Cooper and Ciara all sitting front row, this show was heavily inspired by the ancient Egyptians and their rich colours. Gold art deco-esque dresses looked amazing as did all the gorgeous leopard print and fur stoles. There was pattern and print everywhere you looked, from the long coats and cropped jackets to the snakeskin boots and sweeping mini dresses. Ricardo Tisci has been at Givenchy for over 10 years now, and the shows he produces keep getting more varied and intriguing. You'll never know what he will do next, as he is a fashion deign genius and I am a huge fan.
Stella McCartney
I think its safe to say that the puffa jacket is a thing for autumn/winter 2016. We have seen a number of designers feature this functional coat during Paris Fashion Week, (check out the Balenciaga show) and now McCartney has firmly confirmed that trend by featuring a number in her collection. Whether they were cropped or long, the puffa was included in glorious shades. Other pieces included satin black trousers, lots of tie-dye denim, slouchy knitwear and sexy slip dresses, adding to the lingerie trend of this season. Not one of my favourite Stella McCartney shows, but nevertheless enjoyable.

Sunday, 6 March 2016

Paris Fashion Week Highlights Fall 2016/17

Celine
With all the rumors circulating about Phoebe Philo's resignation in the last couple of months, this Celine collection was enough to firmly put a stop to any more Celine gossip. It was classic Celine, with loose over-sized shirts with starched collars, neutral tones layered over each other, strappy sandals with a black band across the toe (Philo's predicting a warm winter!) and lots of flared trousers in white, apple green and camel.A strong collection from an experienced designer, which makes a change at this PFW which has been a marry go round of change.
John Galliano
Black, navy and white were the key colours of choice this afternoon at John Galliano. There was also a military theme subtly running through the collection with double breasted jackets, long khaki coats and buttoned shirts. I loved the black neckties attached to white silk shirts and the dramatic black tulle dress which featured in the middle of the show. Slouchy knitted tops were paired with pleated with midi skirts while the 90s slip dress made an appearance at the end of the show. This was military chic with a touch of Parisian flare. Tres bien!

Balenciaga
Since Alexander Wang left Balenciaga last year we have been left in eager anticipation to see in which direction Balenciaga takes its house in next.  For fall 2016 the feeling was definitely sporty with a number of loose silhouettes, over-sized puffer jackets, neon brights and slouchy jackets taking centre stage.  As we have seen so far in PFW, next season is heralding the return of the midi skirt which Balenciaga featured in their show today in a variety of colours including burgundy, grey and black.  I have to admit I was not impressed with this collection.  From the first look I knew it would not be to the Balenciaga customers previous tastes. It was interesting to see the house look back at its heritage with a number of boxy grey check jackets and fitted 50's skirts opening the show, yet many of these pieces had no fit and made the size zero models look over-weight. We'll see how this collection sells when it hits the shops next season.

Saturday, 5 March 2016

Dior, Lanvin, Mugler, Elie Saab and more at PFW 2016

Elie Saab
You don't get more beautiful dresses than at Elie Saab. This luxury brand are known for their simply sublime dresses, which never look amiss at the Oscars or Grammys. For fall, they went a little rock and roll, presenting a collection packed full of cool black leather jackets, polka dot skirts, 70s silk blouses and lace paneled dresses. Kendall Jenner looked amazing in a pink tie-dye dress while Magdalena Frackowiak stole the show in a red boho silk gown, with extra long sleeves and bare shoulders. I loved the smoky eye make up, adding to the glamorous rock theme as well as the roll call of fabulous dresses, I would literally do anything to wear. Even the black lace mini dresses were amazing, paired with floppy hats straight from the 1970s and chic knee high boots. A really great show.
Nina Ricci
Peter Copping's departure from Nina Ricci marked a turning point for the brand. Gone was all the glorious femininity which Copping carried over to his new home at Oscar de la Renta, and in came more raw pieces, but still refined enough to live up to the Nina Ricci name. Today, the autumn/winter 2016 collection was elegant and slightly dark, with lots of 90s slip dresses, layering of large coats, leather and satin skirts and even a grey buttoned cape. The models looked simple with hair swept back and minimal make up, letting the clothes do all the talking. I loved the midi skirts which fell to just above the ankle and the pointy high heels.



Mugler
I have always loved Thierry Mugler for their sexy midi dresses, form fitting skirts and amazing tailoring. For Fall 2016, Mugler delivered an amazing show, consisting of lots of leather, bright bursts of lemon yellow and of course, a few black dresses. Shiny leather trousers were paired with boots and stylish blouses, boxy jackets were worn with cigarette pants while textures were used such as crocodile and leopard on mini skirts and the lapels of coats. The dresses towards the end of the show were the most sculptural, cut away at the waist, with deep v necks or thigh high splits. You've definitely got to be a size 8 or smaller to wear these Mugler dresses well, as they clung to every lump and bump. But when you're Joan Smalls (who closed the show in a floor length dress) I guess these things don't matter!

Yohji Yamamoto
I'm not really a Yohji fan, but this fall 2016 collection was striking and very edgy. From the severe black lipstick and the very monochrome ensembles, this was classic Yohji in every possible way. Long lean silk trousers were worn with long cardigans or sleeveless waistcoats, buttoned silk shirts were cut short with material purposefully turned inside out while the chunky biker boots only added to hard-core, Avant Garde look. Minimalism at its finest.
Christian Dior
The sad thing about Dior at the moment is that it has kind of lost its way a little bit. Raf has gone, there's no new creative director, the design team have had to take over and it's all a bit of a shambles really. Todays Dior collection was nice, carrying on from where Raf Simmons left off in October. It was slick in its use of cold colours against black and white, while the simplicity of the clothes kept the new minimal Dior look alive. It was a surprise to see Kendall Jenner walking for such a prestigious name as Dior, yet what she wore on the catwalk was stylish with a fur lapelled black dress. Unfortunately this show will not count for much, it's painful to say, as it will be forgotten in Dior's history. I loved the round sunglasses and pointed brogues though, very cool.

Lanvin
I have to say the same thing about Lanvin as I did with Dior. Lanvin, a brand which flourished under the guidance of Alber Elbaz for 14 amazing years, has sadly been tossed to the side as we wait for a new creative director to be announced. LVMH have given no hint whatsoever when that will be, and judging by this collection they need to find someone new...fast! There was nothing wrong with their fall 2016 show, it just lacked the precision and razor sharp tailoring we have become used to under Elbaz. The a-symmetric dresses were in there, pretty lace tops with black trousers, silk pastel coloured skirts and fur stoles, but it wasn't exciting or dramatic. Even the venue was different. Since I was 13 Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands and I really want them to be incredible once again. Bring back Alber!

Isabel Marant
For chic Parisian style, look no further than Isabel Marant. This lady has led the way for years when it comes to the cool, effortless attitude French women carry so well, and for fall 2016 she delivered another collection packed full of winter basics. From the belted black coats and cosy beige knits, to the preppy curled hair and zebra print leggings, each piece would fit perfectly in with anyone's wardrobe. Anna Ewers closed the show in a barely there LBD complete with ruffles and ruching on the side, but all the looks really were just as cool.  

Loewe
What J.W Anderson is doing at Loewe is just really incredible. This young British designer has turned a rather old fashioned fashion house into one of the most influential brands in the world, with collections which keep pushing the boundaries season after season. This season he sent cat mask necklaces down the catwalk in all different colours (I want one!) layered over tan leather jackets, black corset dresses, graphic t-shirts and even tweed two pieces. Styles were loose, with coats dropping to well below the knee and cinched in at the waist. Very cool and very modern.