Maria Grazia Chiuri debutes her 'New Look' for Dior

You know a show is a success when the entire front row give it a standing ovation, complete with rapturous applause. Maria Grazia Chiuri today debuted her first collection for Christian Dior after the shock departure of Raf Simmons last year. And I for one hope she remains at the house for a longer length of time than her predecessor, after the stunning collection she showed this afternoon.

With Rihanna, Kate Moss, Marion Cotillard, Jennifer Lawrence, Carla Bruni and Diane Kruger sitting on the front row, the pressure was on for Grazia Chiuri to literally 'bring it' for her first collection for Dior. She started off by sending out all white looks with a strong sense of sportswear about them. Models wore trainers with padded jackets and tailored trousers. Sheer tulle was used on floor length skirts and on frilled Victorian style tops and dresses. Little red hearts were embroidered delicately onto the chest of dresses and jackets, before black was introduced with a number of mini skirts, trench coats and shift dresses all in the same tone. Sunglasses were worn with a sense of cool, while the tightly, pulled buns models wore on their head made the clothes look even more slicker. Feminism was a clear inspiration for Chiuri, with Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s slogan, 'We should all be feminists' printed on plan white t-shirts, a similar stance Donatella Versace took at her show at Milan Fashion Week with strong women as her inspiration.

I loved the ballet references, with the net skirts, flat shoes and elegant, streamlined shapes. The dresses towards the end of the show were especially lovely, with straps bearing the Dior logo - this will be a thing for next season in all the shops, trust me. I also liked all the illustrations on the garments which was a nice touch.

If anything, this whole collection was extremely beautiful, light, fluffy and yes, very Valentino. Maria Grazia Chiuri's work at Maison Valentino was heralded as an enormous success after the designer stood down as creative director, and of course she couldn't help but bring these design staples with her to Dior. In some ways, Dior and Valentino are quite similar. They are both brands known for feminine, beautiful pieces, with a fondness for florals and anything delicately elegant. But enough of Grazia Chirui's past and more about her future at Dior. She delivered a fantastic show and I sure hope she sticks around to produce many more at Dior.

PFW HIGHLIGHTS: Chloe, Balmain, Loewe and Lanvin

BALMAIN

Kim Kardashian tried desperately to shift attention to herself, perched on the Balmain front row in a very revealing black lace dress. But Olivier Rousteing outshone Kim and sister Kourtney, also present on the f-row, with another stunning collection. From the burnt orange shades which opened the show, to the stripy metallics, cut out dresses and sweeping silhouettes of the long capes, this spring/summer 2017 show was very stylish, strong and drop dead gorgeous. And what a cast was assembled. Natasha Poly opened the show, followed by Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn, Constance Jablonski, Isabelli Fontana, Doutzen Kroes, Alessandra Ambrosio and Josephine Skriver. When you've got that many supermodels on the runway, its hard to look away.

CHLOE

This show didn't particularly inspire or excite me. Feminine, sweet and fresh, Clare Waight Keller delivered a very saccharine outlook for Chloe next season. From the ruffled mini dresses in layers of chiffon to the minimal navy and whites, paired together on dresses, trousers and tops, this collection was simple yet effective. I liked the use of stripes and the florals at the end of the show as well as the thick straps on dresses and tops. A different look for next season from the Bardot neckline which ruled this last summer.

ISABEL MARANT

Classic with a sporty twist is how I would describe Isabel Marant's lastest collection. Gigi Hadid opened the show in a belted dress which resembled a longer version of a hoody, while belts really did reign supreme here. I loved the utility look with the oversized denim and the Victorian ruffles - two things which shouldn't go together but did. I did spot some similarities to Celine's spring/summer 2016 collection, such as the use of zippers and balloon sleeves tops. But I'm sure this is more coincidence than direct copying.

LOEWE

JW Anderson continues to rule the roost at Loewe. I'm not really a fan of his own label what he does for Loewe is so cool, modern and unique. I loved the Victorian influences, the orange stripes on trousers and sleeves, the all black Matrix kind of looks and the oversized jewellery. Also, those bags were pretty amazing too as was the orange/brown colour pallet.

 
CARVEN

What drew me to Carven this Paris Fashion Week was the sporty influences that ran throughout the collection. I loved the mini skirts which looked more like kilts, paired with knitted jumpers reminiscent of the awful tops golfers wear - but in a good way. Black and navy stood out against oranges and reds while white was used a breath of fresh air.

LANVIN

I was a little apprehensive before the Lanvin show this week. First of all, Lanvin has been one of my favourite brands since I was about 14, mainly due to the designs of the now legendary Alber Elbaz. Every season I waited with baited breath for what beautiful creations he would send down the catwalk, and was rarely disappointed. Secondly, with Bouchra Jarrar now in creative control, I wanted her to do a good job for the sake of the fashion house. And I can happily report that she did.

Monochrome looks were effortless, sheer skirts and draped tops looked amazing together, ostrich feathers worn around necklines added a touch of glamour while the influence of the classic men's dinner suit was adapted in grace and ease. I loved the slickness of the whole show. The quality, as you would expect of Lanvin, was amazing and the style of clothes did very much remind me of all Elbaz did for the house. A wonderful show with so many lovely pieces to wear in the evening.

SAINT LAURENT

Anthony Vacarello and Hedi Slimane are very similar I've decided. This Saint Laurent show could have easily been designed by Slimane, now departed from the house, such were the rock star influences and LA grunge style. But Vacarello looked into the Yves Saint Laurent archives and pulled upon pieces from the 1980s synonymous with the fashion house. The big shoulder pads, a-symmetric dresses, skinny black suits and of course, the leather jacket thrown casually over the shoulders. It was sexy with lots of sheer lace details on dresses with lots of legs on display too, but also very glamorous. The black stilettos with the letters YSL embedded into the heel were particularly cool. I think Vacarello is a good fit for Saint Laurent. Let's hope he doesn't make the same mistakes Slimane made and mixes things up for next season.

Tropico Italiano: Dolce and Gabbana SS2017

Judging by the 'Tropico Italiano' show invitation, you could tell Dolce and Gabbana were feeling exotic, patriotic and in the mood for a party this season. I was expecting bright colours, a clear love for all things Italy and a lot of embellished pieces dripping in the more is more aesthetic which ultimately is Dolce and Gabbana. And I was not disappointed. Before the show even started, huge palm trees stood at the head of the catwalk with glittering, red letters hanging overhead reading 'Tropico Italiano,' in case the message still hadn't sunk in for some attendees.

With Cameron Dallas, Sophia Richie, Rafferty Law, Miroslava Duma and walking Dolce advertisement Anna Dello Russo sitting front row, the show began with an excited hush from the front row. Matador jackets came encrusted with jewels and medal, black lace was sheer and sexy with Dolce's classic black bra peeking out from beneath, bright printed sunflowers featured on silk midi dresses while the brands black suit was updated this season with a pair of fun slippers and casual tshirt. Sara Sampaio rocked an amazing keyboard mini skirt with a black and gold jacket while new comer Hailey Baldwin for a figure hugging black, lace cocktail dress. All 93 looks sent down the catwalk had an enormous attention to detail embedded in them, putting other designers to shame.

As always with Dolce and Gabbana, Italy was a prominent feature. I don't know any other designers who love their country from than this designer duo. Italain flags were printed on blouses, china dolls found in Siciliy featured on midi skirts while references to Italian food, notably pasta were everywhere. "The starting point is no longer the outfit itself," read the show notes. "It's the desire to tell our story, reveal an emotion, a way of life...Our DNA is in the South and all the symbols that represent it; flowers, pasta, bread, good luck charms, shells, fish, religious symbols, music, ice cream, drinks, dolls..." The list goes on forever. I certainly spotted an ice cream printed dress, doing a double take as I did so, as well as plenty of religious symbols such as the cross and the Virgin Mary on t-shirts and dresses. I especially loved all the colours; yellows, blues, reds looked ravishing against black and white.

And how could you tear your eyes away from those gorgeous accessories? The colourful, wedge heels, the shoulder skimming earrings, the little clutch bags dripping with floral embellishment and the decadent headdresses which gleamed in the light. Models walked with flowery crowns upon their heads or a red rose, carefull tucked to one side of their precise middle parting. Add that to the red lips and black, cat flicked eyes and you've got your classic Dolce girl, all dressed up to the nines. What I really enjoyed about this show was the overall atmosphere. Models were smiling, the Italian music was pumping and the energy on the catwalk was just pure happiness. You almost forgot you were watching a catwalk show at Milan Fashion Week.

The finale was just as jubilant. As the last model took her final turn, dozens of dancers jumped onto the catwalk and began leaping, prancing and generally just enjoying themselves with the music. Believe me, you wouldn't get this at Chanel. It was like an enormous Italian street party, where everyone was invited. And I do mean everyone, as the show was streamed live on the website and on the brands Facebook page. As with every Dolce and Gabbana show, the models strode on mass down the catwalk at the end, making sure not to trend on any dancers as they went. Simple t-shirts bearing the D&G logo with mini skirts covered in flowers and flat sandals, were the finale uniform of choice, before Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took their bow to a rapturous applause.

I wouldn't say this was the best Dolce show I've ever seen, but it was certainly the most fun.  Part of me kind of wishes I was Italian now. Vive Italiano!

#MFW: Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Philosophy

 BOTTEGA VENETA

Today marked the 50th birthday of Venetian brand Bottega Veneta, with the help of Irina Shayk, Eva Herzigova, Gigi Hadid and Joan Smalls. Such was the occasion that Lauren Hutton closed the show arm in arm with model of the moment Gigi Hadid, in a lovely beige and pink outfit. Thomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega since which seems like forever, delivered another show packed full of lady like silhouettes, strong colours, cinched in at the waist with silver belts. I loved all the burgundy colours paired with black and grey, plus all the brogues perfect for office wear.

PHILOSOPHY BY LORENZO SERAFINI

 Another great collection from one of my favourite Italian brands, Philosophy. Pretty, sweet, and full of plenty of romantic frills, this collection was as light as a frothy cup of coffee. White was a key colour layered with cardigans, dresses and skirts, with denim added into the occasion too. There was a real Boho feel to the show mixed with a kind of romantic, peasant look which I personally find really beautiful. Bella Hadid closed the show in a pink, spaghetti strap dress with ruffles along the bottom. Another great show. 

 JIL SANDER

 I have never been a fan of Jil Sander. When Raf Simmons was at the brand I hated it and now I'm still not the greatest fan. This collection however was very structured and cool. From the pinstripe suits which opened the show to the black head to toe looks, this show was perfect for the working woman. Next season, Jil Sander urged you to adopt a brown knit paired with a matching skirt or a billowing top and trouser combo. Keep it minimal though in true Sander style.

Ermanno Scervino

 I don't usually pay much attention to Ermanno Scervino and don't really know that much about the brand or their design history. But this show was really lovely, but strong. The military jacket with gold brocade were stylish and cool paired with mini feathered dresses, the sheer shirts worn underneath dresses were fresh while the hair and make up was relaxed and light. There wasn't much print in the collection, but I did liked the stripes towards the end of the show. One of my favourite collections so far at Milan Fashion Week.

 BLUMARINE

 For me, Blumarine is one of the cutest shows at MFW. This season there were sweet little baskets full of flowers spilling out of them, straw hats in conical shapes, white peasant dresses and lots of pretty dresses to choose from.

Armani, Versace and Etro at Milan Fashion Week Day 3

 GIORGIO ARMANI

I always like Armani, especially the colours, fabrics and overall mood of his shows. There are always midnight blues, metallic silvers, sheer dresses and at least 1 pyjama suit somewhere. This season was the same as always. Lady like jackets, silk midi dresses, soft colours and a real sense of luxury. I loved all the intricate detailing on tops and mini dresses as well as the relaxed flat sandals, paired with very dressy ensembles. In classic Armani style there was a stylish turban and plenty of loose trousers tied at the waist with a silk tie. 

VERSACE

Naomi Campbell, Adriana Lima, Irina Shayk, Jourdan Dunn, Edie Campbell... Donatella's list was endless with high profile models she called in to walk in her latest Versace show. Set to a punchy soundtrack and a strobe lighting along a V shaped catwalk, this spring/summer show was classically sexy, very sporty and of course, glamorous. Black was used as a key colour with flashes of colour across jogging tops and trousers, complete with super high heels. Green was used a lot as were purple and patchwork patterns on midi dresses and crop tops. Another high voltage Versace show!

ETRO

 Etro are renowned for their use of exotic prints, usually paisley patterns and lots of swirls. This season, stripes were added into the mix, in black and white on skirts, shirts and jackets. There were still plenty of Arabian style patterns in burnt oranges, soft purple and beige, with some great options for evening too. Etro is very much your go to designer if you're holidaying in Cannes and need a wardrobe to see you through elegant dinners, stylish yacht parties and trips to the beach. I always fall in love with the Mediterranean style they present season after season. I lusted over the black cape tied at front with a clasp as well as the lovely pieces towards the end which featured tan knee high boots and sandals.

SPORTMAX

Not one of my favourite collections so far at Milan Fashion Week, but nevertheless a good show. Very similar in colour and print to the MaxMara show staged yesterday, this collection was sporty, relaxed and had a touch of Celine about it - more specifically some of those draped dresses. Taylor Hill opened the show in an electric blue midi dress with black detailing, while the whole show focused on loose silhouettes and monochrome. Not my style particularly, but it will no doubt please the Sportmax customer. 

MFW Day 2: Prada, Moschino, Fendi and Pucci

MOSCHINO

Oh Jeremy Scott. Nobody has an imagination quite like him. Since he took the reigns at Moschino, every season keeps on getting better, bigger and more crazy. This evening he presented his latest show to a packed front row and a lot of eager fans. Taking inspiration from paper doll dress up games, he sent out models in daring mini dresses, polka dot blouses, sexy black trousers and even a trench coat which was half beige and the other half black. All models had little white cut outs on the back, as though they were real life dolls.

 It was so much fun, and clever at the same time. Irina Shayk closed the show in a volumous blue gown complete with black wig, (all the models wore little cropped wigs) while printed skirts and dresses featured illustrations of womens bodies clad in lingerie. Very strange but very cool!

PRADA

It's easy to see why Prada is still one of the biggest draws at Milan Fashion Week. Miuccia Prada is a trend setter, an inspiration to artists and designers alike and a very good business woman above anything else. I loved the geometric two pieces she showed this season, and the very prim and proper attitude of all her models. Hair slicked neatly to the side, shirts buttoned to the top with little cardigans and bags held obediently to their chest; everything was very uniformed and polished. Except for the feathers which appeared on bustier tops, shoes, dresses and even on the cuffs of jackets. I can guarantee this will be a 'thing' for next spring. The kimino references worked very well too in gold and pink. Lovely.

EMILIO PUCCI

I've said it before and I'll say it again, I was a huge fan of Peter Dundas at Pucci and still mourn the amazing collections he created for the fashion house. That's not to say that Massimo Giorgetti is bad, the current creative director at Pucci. He's just very different, and I don't like his style much. Putting that to one side, this season Pucci was bold in colour with lemon yellow, blue and orange all leaping off the catwalk with plenty of abstract black prints on mini dresses and blouses. There were splashes of colour everywhere towards the end of the show, in what reminded me a little of swashes of paint from a very creative paintbrush. Not my cup of tea, but people like it.

FENDI

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Ventura Fendi make quite a power duo. After celebrating the fashion house's 90th anniversary earlier this year, Fendi still have reason to celebrate with another fantastic collection which was elegant, pretty and as always a bit wacky. Bella Hadid started off proceedings in a simple striped mini dress, followed by more stripes on shoes and dresses. Sheer fabrics were layered over delicate lingerie with a very prominent 'baby doll' feel. Even the models walked with their hair in cute, little bunches with a middle parting, but don't be fooled. These girls strode down the catwalk with metallic lipstick and a severe black flick of eye liner, giving no illusion that although she may look dainty, she is but fierce.

 

 I loved all the light colours and the use of florals which were modernised in silvery metallics. Gold was introduced towards the end of the show in soft, swirly movements on dresses and even on sunglasses and I did spot a fur stole with yellow stripes too (this is Fendi, so there has to be fur somewhere!) Overall, this was a sweet but strong collection which I liked immensely.